They snap to the max.
no belts aren't a type of pulley
The 1989 Toyota Corolla serpentine belt can be tightened or loosen with the tensioner pulley. Pry to the left on the tensioner pulley until the belt is tight. Tighten the tensioner pulley.
To drive the belts
You release the spring tension on the tensioner, a pulley in the belt system who's only purpose is to keep the belt tight. Normally you can use a ratchet to move the pulley away from the belt, but some are adjustable and require loosening a bolt.
I'm assuming you mean a pulley, which is what the belts run on. If so, depending on which pulley the bearings could be bad or if it is the crankshaft pulley (big pulley near the bottom) the rubber could be getting bad.
If the belts are new and tight then one of the driven accessories is having bearing trouble, try to track it down by listening to where the noise is coming from and then with the belt off turn the pulley checking for resistance or side to side play.
Check to see that all belts are tightened to factory specs. Too tight or too loose and they will break. Check the alignment of the pulleys. One out of alignment will cause this. Check the tensioner idler pulley if equipped. Installing incorrect type belts will also cause this. Refer to the link below for the diagram. If you have a serpentine belt it replaces the V-belt in (3) of the diagram. If you have the upper smog pump fitted it is powered from the power steering pulley.
Squeaking belts are the result of improperly adjusted tensioners and pulleys. The belt slides over the pulley and squeaks. Using a lubricant would defeat the purpose. Also I'm not sure what affect wd-40 would have on the material the belts are made of. To get them to stop squeaking tighten them up. Make sure you use your manual and don't get them too tight.
Put the new fan belts around the fan pulleys. Slide the top tensioner pulley upward. Tighten down the tensioner pulley when you have achieved the proper fan belt tension.
Large drive pulley, small driven pulley = faster rotation but less torque. Small drive pulley, large driven pulley = slower rotation but more torque.
Loosen the tensioner pulley. Put the belt around the alternator pulley and the tensioner pulley. Move the tensioner pulley to the right until the belt is tight. Tighten the tensioner pulley.
Take all the belts off it first. The auger and drive are powered by the motor. The belt that powers the drive wheels will be closes to the motor and the belt that drives the auger will be closes to the auger. The space to attach the new belts will be on the motor side of the bottom pulley closes to the motor. Put the auger belt on the bottom pulley that's closes to the auger first but don't attach it to the top pulley. Next, put the drive belt on the bottom pulley closes to the motor- this belt can be attached to the top pulley closes to the motor. Now, the auger belt can be attached to the top pulley closes to the auger. Both belts have idler pulleys that keep them tight. These pulleys run on the outside of the belt. I use a bar when removing and replacing the belts inside of my fingers to guide the belts off the top pulleys. I make sure that the idle pulleys are the first and last that the belt gets attached to or removed from. These idle pulleys don't have to be removed for the replacement of the belts. I pull the starter rope slowly to help install the new belts. Remove the spark plug first. Accidental start ups can happen. The pulley/belt system can cause severe damage to your fingers- so don't use your fingers when guiding the belt on and off the top pulleys. Replace the belt guard if your snow blower still has one.