A volt-amp (va) is the same as a watt (w). A 2.8 kva generator can provide 2800 w of power which is more than sufficient for a 1000 w saw, as long as the safety circuit breaker on the generator can handle the load.
Short answer, yes.
You don't oil a skill saw.
Actually that is incorrect. A Skill worm drive saw, better known as a framing saw does require oil. Specifically, is requires a 90wt gear oil.
No parts available. Makes a door stop
Try managemylife.com and click on "manuals".
First class lever.
Any hardware store sells a chemical compound in a little bottle called "Liquid Wrench". Thoroughly soak the nut in that, come back 20 minutes later and thoroughly soak it again. Give it ten more minutes, and attempt to remove it. It isn't fail-safe, but it works the great majority of the time.
Depends on what you are needing it for. First you should determine what size socket wrench [ratchet] to use. If using a small socket in a small place, try either a 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet.
Second will see a square piece on the head of the ratchet. You take the socket, and match the two squares together.
(Note: On some ratchets, you may simply be able to push the socket on, while others, there may be a small circle on the opposite side of the socket wrench. You have to push this in, while pushing the socket onto the square, and, when the socket is in place, release the circle. This attaches the socket to the socket wrench safely, so that it does not come loose while in use).
Now, if you are tightening the bolt/nut, you push the lever on the back of the head of the socket wrench to the LEFT. If you are loosening, you push the lever to the RIGHT. (Remember it like ON/OFF. On [Left], Off [Right]).
After setting the socket wrench, you place the socket on the nut/bolt, you turn the socket wrench to the left if tightening, and right if loosening. (When you turn it, you should hear a clicking noise. Then when you begin to tighten/loosen it, it will stop clicking).
Hope this helps!
It is the wrong way to say/spell Sawzall, a brand of reciprocating saw made by Milwaukee Tool Co. Also called Saber/Sabre saws, they are a very handy electrical saw, which, with the right blade choice will cut many different materials.
ANS 2 -The Sawzall is a reciprocating saw only. ( NOT also called a Sabre saw. That is a totally different tool that has a base 'shoe' and a blade about 3" long that cuts up and down on a sheet of wood or plastic. )
Sawzall, or 'reciprocating saws' carry blades from 3" to over 15" long, of all types, metal cutting, wood cutting etc. They are made by most electric tool companies now. The simplest and cheapest is the Ryobi which is battery operated. DeWalt probably has the greatest number of reciprocating saw types, at least 12 different that I've seen. The biggest and most powerful of these tools are made by DeWalt, Milwaukee and Bosch.
If you are having that much trouble with getting a tooth out then go to the dentist. Dentists use sterile medical pliers but regular pliers would be unsafe.
Good answer from some lucky or affluent person who has a medical plan. Has it ever occured to you that there are millions of people, even in America or Canada who cannot AFFORD to go to a dentist ?
No, pliers are 2 levers working in together.
5 mm is the least count of theodolite.
It works good!
Really a Dryer Outlet should only be used to power a Dryer.
It wouldn't be wise for you to do this without first consulting a professional electrician. You might get yourself into some difficulties that could burn out your saw motor, cause a fire and/or kill yourself if you don't know what you are doing.
It is unlikely the saw's motor will be rated for 25 to 30 amps and 240 voltage like a clothes dryer.
Additional Info: The saw motor is likely to require less than the 20-30 amps rating of the breaker protecting the Dryer circuit, or that the circuit is fused for. If this is the case then the saw would not be protected adequately. If the saw motor were to stall - or for some reason start to burn out - it would take 20-30 amps of overload before the fuse or circuit breaker would 'Pop'. You could get round this by installing a fuse box with two fuses (one for each of the 'hot' wires) in line with the power cord that connects to the saw and select fuses that were correct for the saw, maybe 10-15 amps If you are not going to use the dryer circuit for a dryer any more, change out the circuit breaker for a lower amp rating.
A dryer outlet is simply a 30amp 220V outlet. It may have three or four prongs and will have 10 gauge wire feeding it. You can plug any 220 volt equipment that is rated at 30 amps into this outlet. If you plug in something rated at a higher current it will trip the breaker sooner or later. If the motor is rated at substantially less than 30 amps you do risk burning up the wiring on the saw although most of them have overload protection that senses when the motor gets too hot. There are a lot of table saws, air compressors, welding equipment, and other shop equipment that this type of outlet will be fine for. I do suggest that you read the info on the motor rating plate and know what you are doing when you put the cord on the table saw. You do not want to confuse the hots and neutral. That would burn up your equipment very quickly.
Electrical appliances "draw" current; the current doesn't force itself into the appliance. That's why a 60-watt light bulb, which draws a fraction of an amp, doesn't explode when it's energized on a 15-amp circuit. And that's why you can have a number of electrical appliances connected to the same 15-amp circuit, with each getting what it needs, and none of them being overpowered.
In general, table saws sold in the US run on 110-120 VAC, and draw less than 15 amps. In a few cases, heavy duty (contractor-type) saws can pull close to 20 amps. None of these saws require anything like a dryer circuit. All can be plugged into a standard grounded 110-120 VAC outlet, a regular wall outlet. If the building wiring is properly done, a 15-amp saw will run all day plugged in anywhere on a circuit unencumbered by other appliances. The same thing will happen when plugging the same saw into a 20-amp outlet. However, if a saw that draws 20 amps is plugged into a circuit that is rated for 15 amps, pretty
soon a circuit breaker will interrupt the juice.
If the saw was hard wired into a box that provided 220 volts @ 30 amps, you can put a 30 amp plug on but you would use an outlet other than a dryer outlet.
Twist Lock Plugs and Outlets come in various amp ratings.
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
If your mix will require some amount of "man-handling" to properly place, a slightly wetter mix will make that easier. A drier mix is nice when forming curbs and inclined surfaces, or if you need to get the surface finished and nicely troweled in a hurry.
A standard size wheelbarrow will hold a manageable size mix using 2:4:6 (simply doubling the formula.) This is enough concrete to fill a large post hole
For a very small batch, use a 3/8" minus gravel. For a larger batch you could use 3/4" or even 1" minus if you need to stretch your sand and cement.Answer
16 shovels of sand,7shovels aggragate(small rock),and on 90lb.bag Portland cement,4 to 7 gal. clean water.Answer
Place above dry mix in suitable mixing conatainer (such as a wheelbarrow), add water slowly while turning the dry mix with a shovel or hoe. Continue adding water until mix has desired consistancy. Slightly 'dryer' than pancake batter is my preference.Answer
a small child's swimming pool is what i have used for a long time their cheap and disposable ( I take mine to the recycling drop off after they crack)Answer
The old Italian way is to place the cement and sand mixture in a pile on a flat surface. Using a shovel make a hole in the center, creating a ring. Pour water in the center and start bringing the dry material into the center. Keep doing this until the material has become completely wet. Continue to turn the mixture over with the shovel combining everything into a firm but moist consistency. To test if your mixture has enough cement in it, pull some out with your index finger and turn it upside down. If it sticks then you're good; if it falls off you have too much sand. Please note that cement WILL burn through your skin, so make sure you wash your hands.
you can also use a 5 gallon pail. add about 2 quarts of water to the pail , add approx. 40 # of concrete mix, than add about 2 quarts more water, than mix with a landscape shovel by by twisting in the bucket, till you have a pancake thickness.Answer
A classic concrete recipe is one shovelful of Portland cement to two shovelsful of sand to three of small rock. You want ROCK, not gravel--gravel is graded for size, and using rock of varying sizes gives the concrete more strength since the little rocks interlock with the bigger ones. Anyway, you want a wheelbarrow to mix it in, a mortar hoe (it's got two holes in the blade) to mix it with and forms to put it in.
the ply board is made of thin boards that is pressed and paste it to become one board.
the ply wood is made of skinned wood and covered with a thin ply wood to make it whole.
Not sure where Hilti starts their lowest level, so I will start at the absolute lowest. From low to high, grey, brown, green, yellow,red. I think they start at brown.
Put the string in place at the correct height at one end using a nail or other firm fastener. Hook the string level on the string and use it to insure the string is level before fastening the other end. Often used when building brick walls, fences and when putting in brick sidewalks to measure level.
Depends on what kind of tile is being installed, porcelain or travertine are around $5.00 sq-ft . If you start going for more expensive tile like marble, slate or stone mosaic, deco lines, and fancy tile layouts it can get to as high as $10.00 in some cases more.
In your case, your asking about the price of meters so im guessing your in UK, AU, or some where in Europe, and prices are way different there.
So you can hammer it in easier
1:1.5:3:0.45 (cement,fine aggregate,coarse aggregate, water cement ratio)
you use it
Well they do come with instructions, make sure you get the right blade for the right tile,keep water flowing it will prolong the life of the blade,and you are less likely to chip the tile, dont force the tile into the blade push it gently once it starts you hardly have to apply any pressure. When using a wet saw make none of the cords are frayed, it gets kinda messy so I wouldn't use it inside a finshed home.
It could be that the blade is dull. The motor works hard to turn the blade and consequently producing smoke. Also make sure to keep your cut straight when cutting to prevent blade binding. It could be that there is a bit of saw dust in the motor. I'd try taking the cover off and blow out the motor. Use a paint brush or compressed air. It is a way of telling you it is TOOL TIME! Head to Lowe's of Home Depot and pick up a new saw. I never heard of a better excuse.vbd The motor should NOT smoke, EVEN IF "bogged down," or heavily loaded. Usually the smoke is from blade friction on the workpiece. IF it ACTUALLY is the motor which is the source of the smoke, then there is a severe defect within, and it needs the attention of a professional repair technician at a factory authorized repair center, OR as answer 3 suggests, it is time to replace the power tool.j3h.
There is a special cutting oil for drilling cast iron. Available at all industrial supply stores.
[THE BELOW ANSWER IS FOR REPLACING BLADE, NOT NEW BLADE AS THE PERSON ASKED]
1. Make absolutely certain that the saw is UNPLUGGED!
2. Are you SURE the saw is UNPLUGGED???
3. Open the guard and place a small piece of wood into the teeth of the blade so as to hold it in one place.
4. Use the flat wrench which came with the saw or a box wrench of appropriate size to unscrew the bolt which secures the blade to the saw motor shaft. This bolt is probably a "left hand thread". Meaning it unscrews in the opposite direction from normal bolts (Remember "Leftie Loosie, Rightie Tighty? Reverse that)
5. Carefully lift the blade away from the saw motor shaft after catching the unscrewed bolt in your fingers.
6. Place the replacement blade onto the shaft, making sure that if there is a diamond shaped metal insert there, that it fits the shaft. Some blades have inserts, some do not.
7. Tighten the bolt back onto the shaft remembering that it is a Left-Hand Thread and tighten in the opposite direction of a normal bolt.
8. Tighten the bolt firmly, but not "too tight"
9. If the bolt is too loose you will know it when you attempt to saw as the blade will slip. Just re-tighten the bolt at that time after unplugging the saw prior to using the wrench on the bolt again.
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