Depends on what you are needing it for. First you should determine what size socket wrench [ratchet] to use. If using a small socket in a small place, try either a 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet.

Second will see a square piece on the head of the ratchet. You take the socket, and match the two squares together.

(Note: On some ratchets, you may simply be able to push the socket on, while others, there may be a small circle on the opposite side of the socket wrench. You have to push this in, while pushing the socket onto the square, and, when the socket is in place, release the circle. This attaches the socket to the socket wrench safely, so that it does not come loose while in use).

Now, if you are tightening the bolt/nut, you push the lever on the back of the head of the socket wrench to the LEFT. If you are loosening, you push the lever to the RIGHT. (Remember it like ON/OFF. On [Left], Off [Right]).

After setting the socket wrench, you place the socket on the nut/bolt, you turn the socket wrench to the left if tightening, and right if loosening. (When you turn it, you should hear a clicking noise. Then when you begin to tighten/loosen it, it will stop clicking).

Hope this helps!

It is the wrong way to say/spell Sawzall, a brand of reciprocating saw made by Milwaukee Tool Co. Also called Saber/Sabre saws, they are a very handy electrical saw, which, with the right blade choice will cut many different materials.

ANS 2 -The Sawzall is a reciprocating saw only. ( NOT also called a Sabre saw. That is a totally different tool that has a base 'shoe' and a blade about 3" long that cuts up and down on a sheet of wood or plastic. )

Sawzall, or 'reciprocating saws' carry blades from 3" to over 15" long, of all types, metal cutting, wood cutting etc. They are made by most electric tool companies now. The simplest and cheapest is the Ryobi which is battery operated. DeWalt probably has the greatest number of reciprocating saw types, at least 12 different that I've seen. The biggest and most powerful of these tools are made by DeWalt, Milwaukee and Bosch.

Really a Dryer Outlet should only be used to power a Dryer.

It wouldn't be wise for you to do this without first consulting a professional electrician. You might get yourself into some difficulties that could burn out your saw motor, cause a fire and/or kill yourself if you don't know what you are doing.

Here's more...
It is unlikely the saw's motor will be rated for 25 to 30 amps and 240 voltage like a clothes dryer.

Additional Info: The saw motor is likely to require less than the 20-30 amps rating of the breaker protecting the Dryer circuit, or that the circuit is fused for. If this is the case then the saw would not be protected adequately. If the saw motor were to stall - or for some reason start to burn out - it would take 20-30 amps of overload before the fuse or circuit breaker would 'Pop'. You could get round this by installing a fuse box with two fuses (one for each of the 'hot' wires) in line with the power cord that connects to the saw and select fuses that were correct for the saw, maybe 10-15 amps If you are not going to use the dryer circuit for a dryer any more, change out the circuit breaker for a lower amp rating.

Another opinion
A dryer outlet is simply a 30amp 220V outlet. It may have three or four prongs and will have 10 gauge wire feeding it. You can plug any 220 volt equipment that is rated at 30 amps into this outlet. If you plug in something rated at a higher current it will trip the breaker sooner or later. If the motor is rated at substantially less than 30 amps you do risk burning up the wiring on the saw although most of them have overload protection that senses when the motor gets too hot. There are a lot of table saws, air compressors, welding equipment, and other shop equipment that this type of outlet will be fine for. I do suggest that you read the info on the motor rating plate and know what you are doing when you put the cord on the table saw. You do not want to confuse the hots and neutral. That would burn up your equipment very quickly.

Electrical appliances "draw" current; the current doesn't force itself into the appliance. That's why a 60-watt light bulb, which draws a fraction of an amp, doesn't explode when it's energized on a 15-amp circuit. And that's why you can have a number of electrical appliances connected to the same 15-amp circuit, with each getting what it needs, and none of them being overpowered.

In general, table saws sold in the US run on 110-120 VAC, and draw less than 15 amps. In a few cases, heavy duty (contractor-type) saws can pull close to 20 amps. None of these saws require anything like a dryer circuit. All can be plugged into a standard grounded 110-120 VAC outlet, a regular wall outlet. If the building wiring is properly done, a 15-amp saw will run all day plugged in anywhere on a circuit unencumbered by other appliances. The same thing will happen when plugging the same saw into a 20-amp outlet. However, if a saw that draws 20 amps is plugged into a circuit that is rated for 15 amps, pretty
soon a circuit breaker will interrupt the juice.

If the saw was hard wired into a box that provided 220 volts @ 30 amps, you can put a 30 amp plug on but you would use an outlet other than a dryer outlet.
Twist Lock Plugs and Outlets come in various amp ratings.

As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

If your mix will require some amount of "man-handling" to properly place, a slightly wetter mix will make that easier. A drier mix is nice when forming curbs and inclined surfaces, or if you need to get the surface finished and nicely troweled in a hurry.

A standard size wheelbarrow will hold a manageable size mix using 2:4:6 (simply doubling the formula.) This is enough concrete to fill a large post hole

For a very small batch, use a 3/8" minus gravel. For a larger batch you could use 3/4" or even 1" minus if you need to stretch your sand and cement.

16 shovels of sand,7shovels aggragate(small rock),and on 90lb.bag Portland cement,4 to 7 gal. clean water.

Place above dry mix in suitable mixing conatainer (such as a wheelbarrow), add water slowly while turning the dry mix with a shovel or hoe. Continue adding water until mix has desired consistancy. Slightly 'dryer' than pancake batter is my preference.

a small child's swimming pool is what i have used for a long time their cheap and disposable ( I take mine to the recycling drop off after they crack)

The old Italian way is to place the cement and sand mixture in a pile on a flat surface. Using a shovel make a hole in the center, creating a ring. Pour water in the center and start bringing the dry material into the center. Keep doing this until the material has become completely wet. Continue to turn the mixture over with the shovel combining everything into a firm but moist consistency. To test if your mixture has enough cement in it, pull some out with your index finger and turn it upside down. If it sticks then you're good; if it falls off you have too much sand. Please note that cement WILL burn through your skin, so make sure you wash your hands.

you can also use a 5 gallon pail. add about 2 quarts of water to the pail , add approx. 40 # of concrete mix, than add about 2 quarts more water, than mix with a landscape shovel by by twisting in the bucket, till you have a pancake thickness.

A classic concrete recipe is one shovelful of Portland cement to two shovelsful of sand to three of small rock. You want ROCK, not gravel--gravel is graded for size, and using rock of varying sizes gives the concrete more strength since the little rocks interlock with the bigger ones. Anyway, you want a wheelbarrow to mix it in, a mortar hoe (it's got two holes in the blade) to mix it with and forms to put it in.

Depends on what kind of tile is being installed, porcelain or travertine are around $5.00 sq-ft . If you start going for more expensive tile like marble, slate or stone mosaic, deco lines, and fancy tile layouts it can get to as high as $10.00 in some cases more.

In your case, your asking about the price of meters so im guessing your in UK, AU, or some where in Europe, and prices are way different there.