Electrical Troubleshooting

The wiring in a building, is designed to take the current to devices, when working properly. If a device develops a short circuit, the current is massive and unlimited.

Passing massive amounts of current through thin cables will make them heat up, just like the filament in a lamp. This will cause a fire.

A fuse is simply a thin wire, that is designed to burn up, when too much current flows through it. It is a controlled burn, inside a specially designed container, at a specific location. As the fuse is in the supply line, when it breaks, the power is also broken and everything returns to a safe situation.

A breaker uses a bi-metal strip or coil to monitor the current and tip a switch when too much current flows. Breakers however can be reset and not normally destroyed by a fault.

An adapter is needed to use a North American shaver in Europe. European outlets are a different size along with a different voltage that you shaver is rated for. An Adapter will take care of both of these problems.

It has momentum and the rotor is free to keep turning in the motor. It slows gradually due to friction of the rotor and the blades moving through air. If there were no friction it would never stop. The bad part is that there would be no air either so you wouldn't care.

Usually electronics will operate at higher or lower voltages. You could use 3 1.1/2 volt batteries for a total 4.5 volts or 4- 1.12 volt batteries for a total 6.0 volts. The former is safer and won't let the smoke out. The device probably will operate at 6.0 volts instead of 5.0v OK but if you let the smoke out, it will never work again as all electronic equipment relies on the smoke inside to work properly. You let it out and it never works again

You can check the input and output in PLC by using the force command. Through the programming instrument the input can be forced opened or forced closed depending on what the status of the contacts are set to. This can also be done with the output contacts.

When flexible cords are talked about the ground wire is in the conductor count. A four wire cord will have black, red, white, and green coloured wires in the flexible cable set. A three wire cord will have a black, white and green coloured wires in the cable set. To use a four wire cord to carry 220 volts just use the black, red and green wires. Connect to the cord ends. Black and red to the outside blade terminal screws and the green wire to the green ground screw. To use a three wire cord to carry 220 volts just use all of the wires. Black and white to the outside blade terminal screws and the green wire to the green ground screw.

Yes but you need a attentuator to cut signal down to input levels. You can get them at radio shack.

If a cable insulation is described as RHW, you would be able to use the cable for what maximum temperature?

A. 194°FB. 140°FC. 86°FD. 167°F

Here are some places:(Add an "h" prior to the address when you copy and paste)

ttp://hsinchang.gmc.globalmarket.com/products/details/transformer-101798.html

ttp://www.unelco.dk/files/pdf/UNELCO_Katalog_2.pdf

ttp://www.eckind.com/product_2615500_150w-12v-ce-cb.htm

To inhibit is to "prevent or stop something from happening".

Dielectric grease would be a better choice.

The load is essentially what consumes electrons. For example a load on a light circuit would be a bulb. Therefore, if you don't hook up a load you aren't doing anything. It is like turning on a light switch without a bulb. It may give you some minor exercise, but it doesn't do anything useful.

Usually in a 230 volt situation, there are three wires. One wire is called neutral or ground. When you hook a motor or lamp between one wire and neutral, you get 115 volts. They are designated usually as L1, L2 and neutral. Things hooked between L1 and L2 are at 230 volts. Anything between L1 and neutral or L2 and neutral are at 120 volts.

If you're really lucky, you'll just have no power going to the light. You could very easily short out across the circuit breaker. Dimmers are not intended to be used in series, which would be the only way to hook them up in place of 3-way switches.

This does not apply if you can find 3-way dimmer switches. They are expensive and fairly uncommon, but there are a few out there.

It's always best to have any electrical work performed by a licensed, bonded electrician.

The voltage 277 volts is a three phase line to neutral voltage of a 480 volt system. What is needed for the protection of the transformer is a two pole breaker from the 480 volt CDP (Central Distribution Panel). The breaker will be sized to the KVA of the transformer. The wire will be sized to the breaker plus 25%. The electrical code requires that on motor and transformer feeders, they be sized to 125% of the total current capacity of the equipment.

That condition is called a "ground fault". That's when the insulation of the motor winding has a break somewhere, allowing current to leak to the motor housing.

The motor SHOULD be grounded, protecting the user from electrical shock, but many older motors were not grounded, providing the potential for just this type of condition.

Newer motors are often "double insulated", meaning that not only is the motor winding insulated, the motor housing is also insulated. Often the housing of a double insulated motor is made of a type of plastic.

Typically a loose connection is either wires in a wire nut not making a proper connection, or a wire not tighten properly in a breaker and/or device e.g., outlet, switch, etc.

yes

Bus bars themselves don't usually fail. Failures normally occur at a connection point, and is usually caused by the bolt or screw becoming loose, or by corrosion. The resulting resistance causes the connection point to become hot, and eventually fail.

The most common method of detecting this condition is by infrared thermography. An infrared camera is used to find connections with elevated temperature.

Good question. There are a few simple answers. Most solders begin to become "plastic" at around 350 degrees Fahrenheit and melt at slightly higher temperatures than even that.

If you are asking about a hot water heater: If you are operating your water heating system at that temperature the water will have already boiled off and most likely the heater will either have exploded, the P/T relief valve dumped or both.

If you are asking about an electric heater, do not try to melt solder on it. The heating element is electrically "hot" and could present an extreme shock hazard.

The best way to melt solder is with with a soldering iron or some kind of torch.

Hope this helps

The circuit is wired wrong. Contact a qualified electrician to make the necessary repairs.

You don't describe the problem well enough to troubleshoot. If there is a fuse involved and it blows you would have to replace the fuse before anything should turn on. If this circuit worked at one time and all of a sudden stopped working then you may have a faulty switch or wires shorted in te switch box. If this is a new installation follow advice from redbeard.

To answer this question a supply voltage must be stated. Also the wattage of the lamps is needed.

A diode should show low resistance with the leads hooked one way and show an open with the leads reversed

Verify that the correct connections to the GFI are correct. It sounds like the ground wire is not connected.