Electrical Troubleshooting

The reset is part of the resettable circuit breaker. It is located just below the "not grounded" light that indicates when a ground is not present

As long as the outlet and the fixture are compatible in voltage, amperage and pin configuration, there should be no problem using them together.

The CEC and NEC both cover this in the electrical code of the particular country.

Depending on the circuit, typically a combination of a coil (commonly called a choke) and a capacitor can be put in circuit at multiple places to significantly reduce noise in a circuit.

A good number on a megger test should be around 2 megohms.

A good number on a megger test should be around 2 megohms.

loose screws or corroded cables or over current above breakers rating (faulty breaker not tripping when meant to) internal fault with breaker.

FWIW: Here is one answer I learned working with my father in appliance repair.

In older stoves (and probably newer ones) , baking ovens and such, the heating elements at the time consisted of long coiled pieces of nichrome wire that resembled a stretched door spring. These wires were fed through round ceramic doughnut hole type insulator holders mounted on a metal frame. When these elements burned out the element wire would be removed and you could purchase a new one, stretch it out, feed it through all the insulators and terminate the ends to the electrical connector. This was referred to as "Recoiling an element"

Later on preformed metal rode type elements were designed and are primarily used today.

I've never heard of a meggameter. However, since the question is under the heading of Electrical Troubleshooting, I'm assuming that you are referring to a megohmmeter.

A megohmmeter is a testing device that measures the resistance of insulators and insulation of electrical conductors. Since their resistance is generally very high, this device uses a voltage between 500 and 2000 volts at a fixed current.

This combination can detect minute pinhole leaks in conductors that are not visible to the human eye. These pinhole leaks can cause arcing and eventually an electrical short.

First check what's actually serviced by that fuse, maybe you've added something that wasn't there from the beginning, pushing the draw over the allowable limit.

If that still looks OK, start by disconnecting the stuff hooked up to that fuse one by one, see if that can narrow things down.

If that doesn't show anything, then you have to start inspecting the wiring itself for damages.

Dont mess with transformers if u dont know how to read a wiring diagram It is easy if u know your relation to each of the phases and neutral and ground

Are you referring to a meter?.... if so, set it to the closest higher voltage on the meter (usually 600VAC but sometimes 300VAC depending on the brand and model)

closing coil 24 vdc

There may be an "open neutral" somewhere either in your breaker panel or in the meter base.

Contact a qualified electrician to help solve the problem. An open neutral causes one leg of the electrical service to be "low" voltage, while the other leg goes "high". That can result in premature failure of electrical components, such as light bulbs, electronic devices and electric motors.

Yes, this simple primitive tool is the best diagnostic tool for most wiring problems.

LRA stands for locked rotor amps. It is the very high current drawn by a motor at the instant it receives power, but before the motor has started to turn.

Typical LRA values can be anywhere between 3 and 8 times the full-load running current.

A Multimeter is an electronic instrument, every electronic technician and engineer’s widely used piece of test equipment. A multimeter is mainly used to measure the three basic electrical characteristics of voltage, current, and resistance.

There are two types of multimeters:

Analog Multimeter: The Analog Multimeter or VOM (Volt-Ohm-Milliammeter) is constructed using a moving coil meter and a pointer to indicate the reading on the scale.

Digital Multimeter: We mostly used a multimeter is a digital multimeter (DMM). The DMM performs all functions from AC to DC other than analog. It has two probes positive and negative indicated with black and red color as shown in the figure.

there are some best multimeters for HVAC.

If the power strip has an indicator light it uses a very minimal amount of power, especially if it's a neon or LED indicator. If the power strip uses either of those, the power use is effectively unmeasurable. Incandescent indicator lights use a very small amount of power.

But in reality, indicator lights are off when the power is off, so actually power strips use no power when they are off.

The answer depends entirely on the wattage of bulb used! You can find the amperage of your light by using the Power Law which states that amperage = wattage divided by voltage. Thus a 60 watt bulb on a 120 volt system would draw .5 or 1/2 an amp.

It sounds like you are describing either a slimline or dc recessed base type of fluorescent fixture. There is a wiring diagram on the ballast of both of these types of fixtures. Do your wiring the same as what is shown and you will have no problem.

find an operator and try to find some answers as to what the machine is actually doing

it is not wise to remove this device it is in place for your safety it is also wise to note over time these device do false trip for no reason.Some will trip with an induction load like a fridge . have it tested .........................

Don't know what you mean by back wire, but most GFCI outlets have a circuit to attach additional outlets that will be protected by the GFCI. Keep total load in minds.