Modification of Old Electrical Work

Yes, you can extend power through the 3-wire switch leg to a new switch for a new light. You would need to connect the hot wire to the common terminal on the existing switch, then extend the hot wire to the new switch, along with the traveler wire. At the new switch, connect the hot wire to the common terminal and the traveler wire to one of the traveler terminals.

To convert amperage to watts, you need to know the voltage, power factor, and the number of phases that you are working with. For a residential refrigerator this is single phase, an industrial refrigerator could be three phase.

You need a volt meter to find the two wires that are the supply and likely the other two wires go to the switch. In some older houses it is impossible to tell wire colors because of the older wire insulation. Turn off the power at the main panel for starters. Separate all 4 wires so none are touching. check each possible pair to find out which pair belongs to the switch. Put ohm meter probes across a pair. Have someone operate the switch and see if the ohm meter goes between open and closed. There are only 6 combinations you have to check. You can also trace out wires with a tone generator.

No, it is not recommended to replace a 35 amp breaker with a 40 amp breaker for an AC unit. Breakers are designed to protect the circuit and the equipment, so using a higher rated breaker can lead to overheating and potential damage. It is best to use the correct amperage rated breaker for the equipment.

No, the wire is there for a reason and should be used. Chances are, this is a 240v application which requires two power sources (black, red). With out the second leg, I would assume that the amps are sky rocketing without the second power source.

Example: A machine runs on so many watts (amps x volts). With out the additional voltage available your amperage will jump drastically to maintain the same wattage.

Typically, a 60 amp, 240 volt circuit. I hope that doesn't sound too sarcastic, but it's true. It's impossible to determine all of the devices that a person may need to operate on a 60 Amp circuit, but the simple reality is, if you don't need it, don't get it.

To calculate the amperage drawn by a 300 watt floodlight, you can use the formula: Amps = Watts / Volts. Assuming a standard voltage of 120V for residential lighting, the floodlight would draw approximately 2.5 amps (300W / 120V = 2.5A).

No, you would need 2/0 (2 ought) in copper.

In the US, 2/0 copper is allowed only in residential installations. Otherwise, 3/0 copper is required to a 200 amp service panel.

The electric utility can use whatever they wish. They have their own standards and the NEC does not apply to them.

yes

for continuous duty it must be at least 10% larger than the normal load

they usually get you on water heaters that take 28 amps need to put those on a 40A with #8 wire not good on the 30A

now if a motor rated fuse and nothing else will ever be on the circuit you can probably be correct with a 17 amp fuse and that is suitable for all the motor overload and locked rotor protection

and it will provide 80 amps for starting

If what you state in this question is accurate this is an illegal installation. A 100 amp service can not have any equipment connected to it less that that of the service size. The 60 amp main panel must be a 100 amp panel to be a legal installation.

Remember this simple equation.

amps x volts = watts

so

1.4 amps x 120 volts = 168 watts

It is possible for a window air conditioner's compressor to trip a 15 amp GFCI circuit breaker when it cycles on due to the initial surge of current it draws. However, if this happens frequently, it may indicate an issue with the air conditioner's electrical system or the circuit breaker itself. It's advisable to have a qualified electrician check the system for any problems.

It is not recommended to piggyback additional outlets onto a dedicated circuit for a washing machine as it may lead to overloading the circuit and creating a fire hazard. Instead, consider running a new circuit for the additional outlets to ensure safety and proper functionality.

Not necessarily. Upgrading to a 200-amp panel usually involves installing larger cables from the main utility feed to the panel to handle the increased amperage. If your existing wiring is in good condition and meets current electrical code requirements, you may not need to rewire the entire house. However, it's important to have a qualified electrician assess your specific situation to determine the best course of action.

Single pole refers to a circuit breaker that interrupts the current flow of one hot wire, while double pole interrupts the current flow of two hot wires simultaneously. In a 240-volt circuit, a double-pole breaker is used to control both the hot wires, providing higher safety protection as both sides of the circuit are disconnected.

No, a 12-gauge wire is typically rated for a 20 amp circuit. To safely handle a 25 amp breaker, you would need to use a 10-gauge wire. It's important to match the wire gauge to the amperage rating of the breaker to prevent overheating and potential fire hazards.

It depends on the specific requirements of your electrical system. Single pole breakers are typically used for 120-volt circuits, while double pole breakers are used for 240-volt circuits. If you are unsure, it is recommended to consult with a qualified electrician to determine the appropriate type of breaker for your needs.

80 feet of 14 AWG wire has a resistance of about .2 ohms. So at 15 amps the voltage drop across the length of wire is about 3 volts. With 120 volt service, this should be fine. If you up the wire size to 12 AWG, the voltage drop would be 1.9 volts.

Yes, double pole switches typically have an off position in which the circuit is disconnected and no power is flowing through the switch. This allows for complete control over the power supply to the connected device or circuit.

"Handle" being a relative term, the answer is a qualified yes, at least briefly.

A switch will fail rapidly if it is used for more than the rated application. A thermostat switch constantly cycles, meaning that the contacts will be overheated, and arc excessively, meaning that the contacts will fail in a relatively short amount of time as related to a switch that is sized for the application.

Not to mention the fact that the extra heat will be a fire hazard.

Don't do it.

Nuisance tripping of GFCI breakers in a sub panel may be caused by a variety of factors, such as moisture exposure, improper wiring, or a ground fault in the system. If the neutral is improperly bonded to ground in the sub panel, it could also cause nuisance tripping as the GFCI breakers may detect a ground fault when there isn't one. It's important to ensure that the neutral and ground are properly separated in sub panels to prevent such issues.

You need to be more specific. Is this your feed?? Is this a home run (the wire that is feeding a circuit). Anyway if this is your feed wire (the wire supplying power to your sub panel) then you will land your two hots , then you will land your ground wire on the lug that is bonded to the panel. Sometimes this is a ground bar that can be screwed to the panel itself and then your neutral will go to the bar that is not touching anything. So your neutral coming in will be tightened down to the same bar as the neutrals that are feeding the circuits. This is assuming you'r are feeding your sub panel with 2 hots, a ground and a neutral.

The general rule is Current = Power/Voltage. That gives you a general idea. However it really does depend on weather its AC or DC too. If its AC, take 1680/120 volts = 14 amps. But thats just a general rule and its only for indication really, i wouldn't rely on it too much.

No, it is not recommended to join different color electrical wires together as they likely serve different purposes. It is important to follow proper wiring standards and consult a professional electrician to ensure the safety and functionality of the electrical connections.