Modification of Old Electrical Work

Amps = Watts / (Volts x Power Factor). Now a hair dryer has a motor and a resistive heater so if we assume a PF = .8 the answer is:

1500 / 20 = 75 amps.

Since it is unlikely that you have a 75 amp hair dryer you must mean 125 volts. The answer for that would be 1500 / 100 = 15 amps which is still high, but believable. If we assume a Power Factor of 1 and ignore the motor contribution to Power Factor we have 1500 / 125 = 12 amps.

The short answer is, Yes. But here are the issues at hand:

If you require a 15 amp circuit you cannot go smaller.

Voltage of a fuse is determined by the voltage applied. You may not have 250v. You can use a fuse with a higher rating than the supply but not smaller.

Wire size is determined by overcurrent protection, which is your fuse, so if you use a larger amp fuse you must determine if the wire is large enough to handle it. Do not guess.

So the long answer is, Any 15 amp fuse with a voltage rating at or above the supplied voltage will work if properly installed.

The maximum ampacity for 4/0 copper wire is approximately 230 amps when used in a building or residential wiring application. This rating may vary depending on the specific insulation type and local electrical codes, so it's always best to consult with a qualified electrician for accurate information.

Neutral and ground wires are usually bonded together at the main service panel of a building, but should never be bonded together at any subpanel or other point downstream. This connection is made to provide a safe path for stray electrical current in case of a fault, and to ensure proper grounding and equipment safety.

A watt is a unit of power, and power is given by

P = IV

where P is power, I is current and V is voltage.

Therefore,

P = IV = (7.8A)*(110V) = 858A*V = 858W

No, a standard residential breaker is typically rated at 15-20 amps in the US. A 105 amp load would require a specialized breaker or multiple breakers to handle the current. It is not safe to connect a 105 amp load to a standard single pole breaker designed for lower amperage.

No, never use the neutral conductor for anything but a neutral. If the house has no grounding system then there is no need to connect the fan ground wire to anything. Just keep in mind that the wiring in the house could be 70 plus years old and the insulation on this wire will be starting to break down if handled too much. Just cap the wire off and install the fan. Old two wire knob and tube systems were used in the 20's and they never used a ground with them. In the 40's NMD cable was used but it also never had a ground wire. It was in the early 60's that the third wire was added to NMD cable, it was a bare copper wire that was used for grounding equipment. Now the new wiring code states that there must be a grounding system in place for new installations.

Someone has wired 240 volts into your 120 volt outlet. If you have 240 volts you need a specially configured outlet so that a standard 120 volt plug cannot be inserted. If you have this situation you would see 120 volts to ground and not neutral. Sometimes if you don't look carefully an outlet will look like the standard 120 volt variety but it isn't. One of the slots is horizontal and not vertical although there may be a small vertical split. 240 volts doesn't just magically appear. What you are describing is on purpose. If it really is 120 volt receptacle you need an electrician to put in the proper receptacle or re-wire the circuit.

If the 12,000 BTU A/C only requires 20 amps to run then yes you can use the same 12 gauge wire but you cannot change it to a 15 amp breaker. You will need to install a 20 amp double pole breaker. If it requires more than 20 amps you will have to replace the wiring and breaker.

The white is neutral. The house does have a neutral wire even though it may be black. One of those black wires is the neutral and the other is the hot wire. You will have to determine which is hot and which is neutral. You can easily do this with a voltage tester. The wire that lights the tester is the hot. When you wire the light simply wire the hot to hot, and the white and green to the other wire.

No, it is not safe to use two 20 amp circuit breakers to protect a 40 amp circuit. Circuit breakers are designed to protect the wiring in a circuit from overheating, and using a higher amperage circuit breaker than the wiring is rated for can lead to overheating and potential fire hazards. It is important to use the correct size circuit breaker for the amperage rating of the circuit.

6 AWG. It is the amps that matter most, but there are other elements in that a maximum voltage may be specified as it relates to the insulation on the wire. In an auto the wire is usually stranded rather than solid.

Siemens and Eaton are two common brands that make breakers that are compatible with Gould GFCI breakers. Ensure to check the specifications and compatibility to make sure the replacement breaker will work properly in your electrical panel.

No, the neutral wires from different panels should not be tied together at the main neutral lug. Each panel should have its own separate neutral connection to the main service panel to ensure proper grounding and to prevent potential hazards such as ground faults. Mixing neutral wiring from different panels can cause electrical imbalances and safety issues.

Yes, three 10 AWG wires can handle 90 amps when wired together in parallel. Each 10 AWG wire can typically handle up to 30 amps, so three wires can handle a total of 90 amps. It's important to ensure that the wires are securely connected and properly sized for the current being carried.

No, it just has an additional conductor to separate the neutral from the ground, and has a third prong in the receptacle to receive the appliance grounding conductor through the cordset.

It is not recommended to modify the original wiring of a turntable. Instead, you should use an adapter or extension lead to connect the turntable to a UK power outlet. This will ensure the safety and integrity of the turntable's electrical system.

No, it is not safe or recommended to connect a 200 amp service to a 125 amp panel. The panel must be rated to match the amperage of the service to avoid overloading the panel and potential fire hazards. It is important to upgrade the panel to match the service amperage.

An ordinary light switch does NOT have any neutral -- it only switches the live wire. Some installers use the white wire as a "switched" wire to the light fixture, where the power cable went to the light and a separate cable went to the switch. Technically, the white wire should have been marked with red or black tape at each end, to signify it is not neutral - it is either live or off.

In that case, you would not be able to use a PIR switch because there is no neutral, which is necessary to provide power to the electronic circuit in the PIR.

You would need to rewire the switch with a new power cable from the branch circuit. The you have the live and neutral wires in the outlet box, connect them to the PIR, and run the pigtailed neutral and the switched live (and pigtailed ground) to the light fixture (where you would disconnect the other power cable completely and cap the ends separately).

For a 100 amp main panel located 100 feet away, it is recommended to use a 2/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum service cable to ensure proper voltage drop and capacity for the distance. Consult with a licensed electrician to determine the specific requirements based on local codes and conditions.

Typically a washing machine and gas dryer don't use a motor larger than 3/4 hp, and other than the timer, they don't typically have much of an additional current draw.

Most 3/4 hp motors pull about 6.5 amps, putting the total current load of both devices at 13 amps.

You shouldn't have trouble putting them both on a single 20 amp circuit, provided that there are no other devices on the same breaker, AND provided that the washer and dryer do not draw much more than estimated.

Understand that all manufacturers have their own idea of what the perfect washer and dryer should be like, so you may need to verify the current draw of each device before making assumptions.

And understand that the current load on a breaker should not exceed 80% of it's rated capacity, meaning that the total current draw of the two devices shouldn't exceed 16 amps.

Normally red or black is the hot wire and green is the ground. However someone may have used the green wire as the neutral wire which is normally white. Just connect the black wire from the light to the red wire and the white wire from the light to the green wire and see if it works. If not you have to pull the wires out of the ceiling box and see how they wired it.

Open up the ceiling box and disconnect the blue wire coming from the light and connect it to the black wire coming from the fan. Be sure and put a wire nut on the wire where the light was connected before you removed it. The wall switch is controlling power to the wire where the fan is connected so when you connect the blue fan wire to that connection you will be sending power to both the fan and light from the wall switch.

That would depend on the Amp rating of each breaker. If the circuits being run into the panel only require 15 amp breakers then you would have a total of 4. However if you are running larger circuits requiring 30 Amp breakers then you would only have 2 total. So as you can see there are many variables involved in providing an accurate answer to this question.