Modification of Old Electrical Work

In an electrical socket, there are three holes. One is a hot wire, one is a neutral wire, and one is a ground wire. Usually, the hot wire is black. The neutral wire is white. And the ground wire is green. Motors usually have three pin plugs. Other items also have them. When a motor has a three pin plug, the body of the motor is attached to the ground. If a spark goes from the electrical wires to the body of the motor, it will go harmlessly to the ground and not hurt anyone. On a two pin plug, usually one pin is larger than the other. The larger pin goes to the neutral or white wire. It is also grounded. That way if there is an electrical short in the device, it should not electrocute the person using it.

I would not recommend trying to use an extension cord for a dryer. the better option is to either buy a longer cord that is properly sized to deal with the extra distance or have an electrician come out and either move the outlet or custom make you a longer cord for your dryer.

A 20 Amp single pole switch is needed when the circuit requires higher amperage capacity to safely control the load. Using a 15 Amp switch on a circuit that requires 20 Amps could lead to overheating and potential fire hazards. Always match the switch's amperage rating with the circuit's requirements for safety and proper functionality.

No, it is not safe or to code to extend a 240V electric range outlet by adding a junction box with a 6-3 wire without proper knowledge and understanding of electrical systems. It is recommended to hire a licensed electrician to properly extend the outlet to ensure safety and compliance with electrical codes.

You can use a GE tandem breaker of the same size and specifications to replace another GE tandem breaker. It is important to refer to the electrical panel's specifications and the breaker compatibility list to ensure the right fit and proper function. Always consult a qualified electrician if unsure.

For a 100 amp sub panel located 250 ft from the main panel, you would typically need to use 3/0 aluminum wire or 2/0 copper wire to ensure efficient power transmission and voltage drop within acceptable limits. It is recommended to consult with a licensed electrician to ensure the appropriate wire size and materials are used for your specific setup.

Sure. Get a recessed light that is designed to be installed in "old Work". You must hav eenough room in ceiling to contain the recessed light. There may be some issues in some locations where the recessed fixture may overheat if for instance there is insulation around the fixture. Light should have an over temp cutoff. There should be a template with recessed light and a built in box to wire in the power from the old light.

If you carefully cut out the sheetrock in ceiling according to the template dimensions, you will be able to use the piece you remove to repair the hole should there be no room for the recessed light.

If there is attic access where the new light will be installed, you may be able to use a "new Work" light fixture since you can mount it from above. Go to someplace like Home Depot or Lowes and see what they have available.

To change a wire from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts, you will need to reconfigure the wiring by connecting it to a transformer that steps down the voltage. This transformer will reduce the voltage from the higher range to the desired lower range, allowing you to safely use it with 110-120 volt systems. It's important to ensure the transformer is compatible with the current and wattage requirements of your device or equipment.

It has been suggested that: :You have to run a new wire to the other 3 way switch. use 14-3wire for a 15 amp breaker and 12-3 for a 20 amp breaker. use the black for hot, white for neutral and red for your identifier. hook ground to switch and box if metal. The red tells the other one what position the other switch is in. Of course your switches have to be changed to 3 ways. If you are not ABSOLUTELY clear on this, seek help because a fire can result! This may be at least partly accurate, however it does not completely cover the situation. It is unclear why you would ever have two blacks but only one white wire and where they might lead, and what exactly you're trying to do. You could be adding danger to confusion unless you figure out exactly which wire does what. Also, there is often no neutral needed between 3-way switches and all three wires are hot at one time or another (two travelers and one switched). Any white wire used in 3-way (traveler or switched) must have its insulation taped over (at both ends) with black or red to show it is no longer to be considered neutral. The only time you would have neutral between two 3-ways is if the light is between the two switches rather than the switches being connected directly to each other.

There are formulae, but it is much easier to simply use a "voltage drop calculator" (many interactive ones can be found online), plug in your values and increase your conductor size until the calculated voltage drop over the required distance, at 1.25 times the required load (80 percent design factor), does not exceed 5 percent (the allowed voltage drop in USA and Canadian electrical codes, other countries vary).

For instance, your example could use 14 AWG, giving you a 4.8 percent drop, or 12 AWG for a 3 percent drop (assuming copper). If you were to use aluminum, you would need the larger conductor.

If you have two black wires and one ground wire, you can connect one black wire to one of the hot terminals on the outlet, the second black wire to the other hot terminal, and connect the ground wire to the ground terminal. Make sure to turn off the power before attempting any wiring to ensure safety. If there is a neutral wire present in the outlet box, it must be connected as well.

To supply 100 amps from 1.5 volts, you would need to use a very low resistance load. Using Ohm's Law (V = I*R), you can calculate that in order to achieve 100 amps with 1.5 volts, the load resistance would need to be approximately 0.015 ohms. Such low resistance loads can be challenging to find and may not be practical for most applications.

Possibly if you know building code requirements and the circuit requirements. Any electrical work done improperly can be deadly, it will void insurance coverage and could possibly land one in prison if damages occur. Call your local building inspector first, do it right or not at all.

No, each conduit should only contain wires from the same circuit. Mixing circuits in a conduit can lead to interference and safety hazards. It is always best practice to keep conductors of the same circuit together to prevent potential issues.

If you have 100 amp wire, you can use it for a 60 amp circuit, or for any circuit of 100 amps or less.

But if you have a 60 amp circuit, 60 amp wire is thinner and cheaper than 100 amp wire.

Most lighting circuits are 15 amps and require 14 AWG wire. 16 AWG wire has a smaller cross section than 14 AWG and cannot be used in the 15 amp circuit.

I had an answer here and deleted it when I found it to be at least partially incorrect. What I found is this: Sec 240.5(B)(2) allows 16 AWG fixture wire to be run up to 100 feet in length when attached to a 20 amp circuit. I thought it was 18 inches. Fixture wires are defined in Table 402.3.

You can make that a condition of the sale, or you can request a discount to do that yourself. The homeowner may just tell you that the price is low enough that you can have it done yourself.

The requirement is typically part of the terms of the lending institution and as such, not necessarily a local ordinance.

Offer to purchase the home conditional upon the upgrade. The homeowner may agree, but may counteroffer with a price that includes the cost of the upgrade.

The question is one of voltage loss. The goal is to have enough ampacity in the selected conductors to run the maximum load with only 3 percent voltage drop, caused by the resistance inherent in the wires.

Plug your numbers into a voltage drop calculator online and see what pops out.

At 120 volts you would get 3.1 percent drop using 3/0 wire.

At 240 volts you could drop down three sizes to #1 AWG for 3.1 percent at max load, or 1/0 size for 2.5 percent drop at max load.

Assuming copper wire at normal conditions of temperature.

That depends on the amount of current that the microwave draws. Calculate the current draw of the microwave, then do not use more than 80% of the circuit breaker that you put in circuit.

More information: In the United States, kitchen counter top receptacles are required to be fed from at least 2 - 20 amp "small appliance" circuits. You may have more and I know of no requirement that additional circuits must be 20 amps. With this in mind, consider what Redbeard has answered.

However, in my experience the term "small appliance circuit" is usually ASSUMED to be 20 amps because very rarely are more than the 2 required circuits installed. Your inspecting jurisdiction may make this assumption. They are the final arbiter of what the code means.

Assuming garage is detached less than 80 ft away. You need a 60 AMP double pole breaker for the 200 AMP house panel, and need to have two spare slots. Additionally you should have conduit in running in ground, and have #4/3 W/ground Stranded cable running to the sub panel. This setup will allow for 110V's and a 220V circuit. Connect the two hots, Red/Black to the Breaker on your servicing the panel. Connect the neutral (White) to the Neutral bus bar along with the Ground wire. Sub panel on detached Garage. Attach the White neutral wire to the Neutral ground bar. Attach the ground to the ground bar on the Sub panel. Pull the permits and have it inspected!

If your house has the wires from the meter going straight into your panel box then you tie the neutral and ground to the same busbar. However;

If you havve a disconnect on the outside of your house then you must separate the neutral andground inside the 200 amp panel box. This is usually prevalent on a mobile home or any time the pnel box you are using is fed from another panel or disconnect.

In a panel box, the neutral wire is typically white or gray. It is important to follow standard color-coding practices to ensure proper wiring and safety in electrical systems.

A half-ton air conditioner typically uses around 450-550 watts per hour while running. This can vary depending on the specific model and efficiency level of the unit.

It provides switching for a single wire. It has one input and one output. When the switch is open (Off) the input is not connected to the output. When it is closed (On) the input is connected to the output.

In a standard electrical system, the red and black wires are typically used for the positive connection, while the blue and white wires are used for the negative connection. However, it's important to check the specific wiring diagram or instructions for the device or circuit you are working with, as color coding can vary.