Modification of Old Electrical Work

It stands for American Wire Gauge and a designation like 10 AWG indicates the size. There are a number of other specifications which derive from the cross sectional area of the wire as designated by the gauge. One confusing aspect is as the number of the gauge gets smaller the current carrying capacity increases.

No, Siemens and Westinghouse breakers are not interchangeable as they are designed for different electrical panels and systems. It's important to always use the correct type and brand of breaker specified by the manufacturer of your electrical panel to ensure safety and compatibility.

The size wire you would use for a sub panel box would depend on the square footage of the area it will be servicing.

<<>>

Wire is sized by the amperage of the load, not the square footage of the area it will be servicing. . Depending on what the amperage size of the sub panel that is to be installed, will govern what the conductor size that is to be used.

This is a relatively simple wiring job. Remember that all a switch is, is a means of interrupting the power coming from source (electrical panel) and travelling to load (light fixture). Without the switch, the light would stay on constantly.

The black wire is a power wire and so is the red. The white wire is a neutral wire, and the green wire is the ground. You may have to do some trial and error to get it right as I can't see the actual wiring diagram you have.

After shutting power off to that circuit, disconnect the dimmer switch and remove. Connect the two white wires together with a wire connector. Connect the two green wires. The red wire was probably part of the dimmer switch and should now be gone, but if it isn't then just cap it off.

Now connect the black wire from the fixture to one of the terminals on the switch, and connect the black wire from the electrical panel to the remaining terminal on the switch. That's it.

To wire two outlets together and continue the run to another outlet, you can connect the incoming hot wire to the brass-colored terminal on the first outlet, then connect a short jumper wire from the first outlet's silver-colored terminal to the brass-colored terminal on the second outlet. Finally, connect the incoming neutral wire to the silver-colored terminal on the first outlet and repeat the process for subsequent outlets in the circuit.

Yes you can, but it is all about distribution of the load. You still have a maximum limiting current of 150 Amps. So if you did use 100 amps on the sub-panel that would only leave 50 amps on the main. Since power usage is usually not constant and varies by day and situation, you just need to make sure the load is distributed so you don't start tripping breakers.

The number of devices depends on how many amps each device pulls. If 10 devices pull 2amps a piece then that is your entire 20amps. If your breaker trips then you know you've exceeded the amperage for that circuit.

You would need to check for other lights on the same circuit or switch, but it would seem to me that you have power coming into the box (black and white) and a power out going to another box or light. You would use wire nuts to connect the black and white wires from your floodlight to the existing ones.

If you don't have a Westinghouse breaker, you should use a breaker that is compatible with your electrical panel. Consult the panel's specifications or a qualified electrician to determine the appropriate replacement breaker for your specific panel. Using an incompatible breaker can be dangerous and may violate electrical codes.

It could mean two things. The first thing would be that the tester is not working. Test on a circuit that you know to be energized. The second thing causing a tester not to light is that the circuit under test is de energized.

When using these types of testers always test the black to white wire and then black to ground wire. If the tester indicates there is a voltage to ground and not the white then the neutral white wire is open somewhere in the circuit.

Yes. Assuming everything is wired correctly and your 30 amp AC cord is compatible with your 50 amp plug, you can do this. I think you will find, however, that your 50 amp plug has a different pin configuration than your 30 amp cord end. This is not easily resolved because there are serious dangers in going the other direction, plugging a 50 amp appliance into a 30 amp receptacle.

Actual voltage would be 240V. 4 AWG copper is capable of carrying 50A. At 200 ft, with a 50A load, voltage drop would be about 6V, which is within the acceptable 3% voltage drop for a branch circuit.

No, an insulated ground wire cannot be used in place of a tinned bare ground wire. The grounding wire must have a bare tinned copper conductor to provide a proper and effective path for excess electrical currents to flow safely to ground. Using an insulated wire can create safety hazards and may not meet electrical code requirements.

Yes, because the "higher" watt energy saver bulb (cfl) is actually a lower watt bulb than a standard (incandescent). Always look at the actual watts, not the 'light equivalent watts'. 11 watt low energy tube = 60 watts of old-fashioned light. More light, less heat!

"CAN"? Certainly. But you will need to run a new service cable. You'll need to have your licensed electrical contractor work out the details with your local electrical power company, and get the appropriate permits.

No, the plug and device have different voltage and amperage requirements. Using a 125V 30 amp plug for a device that needs 24V 50 amp could damage the device and pose a safety hazard. It is important to match the electrical specifications of the plug and device for safe operation.

Depending on the efficiency of the flood lights, you should be able to safely run one 500 watt flood light on a 13 amp plug. Keep in mind that it's important not to exceed the amp limit to prevent overheating and potential fire hazards.

To wire a 3-prong outlet with newer 4-wire cable, you will connect the black and red wires to the brass screws for the hot connections, the white wire to the silver screw for the neutral connection, and the green or bare wire to the green screw for the ground connection. Be sure to consult local electrical codes to ensure proper installation.

The one wire carries the electricity or voltage. The lamp is grounded completing the circuit.

You don't. The light switch is only half the circuit, a lamp has nothing to ground to so it can not work. If the wire to the switch is 3 wire, the bare wire would complete the circuit and power the plug, but it would not be up to code and could present a fire hazzard.

To find the watts in a system, you can use the formula P = V x I, where P is power in watts, V is voltage in volts, and I is current in amps. For a system with 120 V and 25 A, the calculation would be 120 V x 25 A = 3000 watts.

Where there is a red wire involved that usually indicates some type of special switching arrangement or more likely a 240 Volt circuit. In this case there will be 240 volts across the red and black and they will both be hot. Normally for 120 Volts the black is hot, the white is common and the bare wire is ground.

The minimum size equipment grounding conductor required by the NEC for a branch circuit protected by a 50-ampere rated circuit breaker is 10 AWG copper or 8 AWG aluminum.