Modification of Old Electrical Work

12 amps is 80% of a 15 amp circuit which is the maximum that should be run. Other factors such as wire size and length also play a part in calculating a safe maximum Jeff

Yes, you can change a single pole switch to a double pole switch for your winch. A double pole switch will have two input wires (live and neutral) and two output wires to control the winch operation. Make sure to follow proper wiring and safety guidelines when making the switch to ensure the correct function.

Yes. It woul be impossible to pull that wire out as it is probably stapled off somewhere in the wall. Don't cut em back either. Just curl them up nicely out of the way and cap off separately for future use if needed.

Probably not. The reason is the amperage required by the electric range. They typically require 50 amp whereas a dryer normally only requires 30 amp. Therefore, the wiring feeding the dryer is not large enough to support an electric range. Your range should be wired with #6 or 8 gauge wire, whereas your dryer is likely only wired with # 10 gauge which will not carry 50 amps.

By code you're supposed to have a dedicated 20 amp circuit. But if you have an existing 15 amp circuit it might be fine for now if your microwave is 1400 watts or less and there's nothing else drawing power from that circuit. But if your running it new definitely run a 20 amp circuit dedicated on 12 gauge wire. That will allow you to use any microwave you want now and in the future.

A ballast typically uses around 5-10 watts of power. In this case, a 150 watt HPS bulb will consume 150 watts of power when turned on. So, in total, the ballast and the bulb together will use around 155-160 watts.

You can do a 30 amp twist lock receptacle 220v 3 wire (nema L6-30R) or a strait blade 30 amp 220v 3 wire receptacle (nema 6-30R) or a traditional 30 amp dryer plug. The nema # is a universal # that everyone uses to identify that plug. Ask for it. The most important part is the 30 amp male that your trying to plug in. Match it up with what you putting in the wall. Use #10 gauge wire for 30 amps

For that current you would need five 0000 (4/0) wires in parallel for each side of the circuit, and they would heat to 90 degrees C if used for any length of time according to the NEC tables. Those wires have a diameter of 0.46 inch exactly.

There are better ways of transmitting 153 kW if there is a higher voltage available.

The neutral wire completes the circuit and carries the current back to the power source. It provides a path for the electricity to return safely to the earth or ground. In a 3 pin plug, the neutral wire is usually color-coded as blue.

If you are connecting a 4-prong dryer cord to a 3-prong outlet, the extra ground wire (green or bare copper wire) should be left unconnected. Do not try to ground it by connecting it to the neutral terminal or anywhere else. This is to prevent creating a ground loop and potentially causing a safety hazard.

A typical 15-amp, 115-volt residential outlet can handle up to 1,725 watts (115 volts * 15 amps). However, it's recommended to leave some margin and avoid continuously drawing the full capacity to prevent circuit overloading.

No, it is not safe to use 10 gauge wire with a 30 amp breaker as the wire is not rated for that high of a current. It is important to use the correct wire gauge that matches the breaker amperage to prevent overheating and potential fire hazards. For a 30 amp breaker, you should use at least 10 gauge wire.

Nominal residential voltage is 120/240 volts. Not sure from you description if the plug is just rated at 230 volts or is supplying 230 volts (It is likely that the plug may be rated at 230 volts, but only operating at 120 volts). A typical hand held hair dryer would operate on 120 volts. A commercial hair dryer might operate at 220 volts, but must be plugged into a 220 supply.

Wire is not sized by voltage. It is sized by current measured in amps.

Some common copper wire sizes and their current capacities are:

15 amps -- 14 gauge wire

20 amps -- 12 gauge wire

30 amps -- 10 gauge wire

40 amps -- 8 gauge wire

If there is nothing else on the circuit then you could easily install 15. If there are outlets on the same circuit then try and keep the total of outlets and lights to a maximum of 15. But in reality the number of devices depends on how many amps each device pulls. Add up the amperage of the recessed lights you are going to install and then add any outlets and what may be plugged into them to get the number you can install. A 100 watt light bulb will draw about 1 amp. So you can easily have 15 on a 20 amp circuit.

For six outlets on a 30 amp breaker, you should use at least a 10-gauge wire to handle the load. This wire size is recommended to ensure proper flow of electricity without overheating. Always consult local electrical codes and regulations to ensure compliance with safety standards.

Assuming a resistive load, the continuous current flowing would be 600/220 = 1.36 amps. The resistance of the load is 220/1.36 = 162 ohms.

If you have a 200 ampere hour battery that only supplies 24 volts you can't run your 600 watt device that is designed to run at 220 volts.

For sake of argument, say your load is an incandescent light bulb designed to work at 24 volts. If you attached the battery it would try and draw 600/24 = 25 amps and the resistance of the load would be about 1 ohm.

You need to match the voltage source to the load requirements.

CAVEAT - This example assumes that if a 24 volt battery was used that the 600 watt device was made to work for 24 volts. It is not the same load that would be for a 600 watt device at 220 volts. The problem is that the hypothetical question asked does not match reality.

The breaker's function is to protect the circuit so that no more than 20 amps flow. The ability to create the 20 amp flow comes from the voltage supplied by the power company and the load you connect to the supply through the breaker.

The breaker is just a switch that "opens" if the current flowing through it is to high. It has no role in generating the current.

Ovens typically run at 240 volts which will be a two pole breaker in your panel. Watts = volts x amps.

4800 / 240 = 20 amps.

If by chance you are using 120 volts then double it to 40 amps. All wiring must conform to size of breaker used.

A 20 amp circuit with #12 gauge wire will work in any event but if the nameplate recommends a 15 amp circuit then #14 gauge wire on a 15 amp circuit is sufficient.

In either case you will have a double pole breaker and your equipment may not require a neutral. Always run a grounding conductor.

Depends upon which prong is horizontal.

Under NEMA standards (in the USA) it could either be 250v (6-20p) with both non-grounded terminals hot, or 125v (5-20p) with the horizontal being neutral.

Obviously, WHICH terminal is horizontal determines the possible voltage, so you cannot accidentally plug a 125v device into a 250V socket.

Remove the 30 amp double pole breaker and install at least one single pole 15 amp breaker. It is best if the other slot is not left open so if you have another single pole breaker of any size install it in the 2nd spot so it isn't open when you replace the cover on the panel.

For your 15 amp circuit you need #14 gauge copper wire or larger with a hot, neutral, and ground. Your 30 amp circuit was probably wired with #10 gauge conductors. These will probably work on your 15 amp circuit but it may be difficult to connect #10 conductors to devices.

This is not a job for an amateur, but I will help you with some primary considerations. My answers are based on the United States' NEC (code) and do not take into consideration any local requirements.

You do not want to extend your existing service conductors. You want to install a 100amp breaker into your existing panel and run conductors from there to your new panel.

If this is a residential application you can run this with #4 copper conductors. If this is a commercial application you must run #3 copper conductors. I would answer this question based on what your shop is intended to do. If you are running professional equipment and are more or less "in business", use the commercial requirements.

If you know how to properly ground a new service, and if your new panel has a main breaker, you can do what you need with 3 conductors. This will allow you to put neutral and ground conductors on the ground bar like you would in your primary panel. If you do not know how to properly ground a new service or doing so is not practical, you will need 4 conductors and your grounds and neutrals will have to be ISOLATED from each other in the new panel. Your neutral bar in this case would be insulated from the panel. In this case your new panel would become a sub-panel of the primary panel.

Some panels do not have a main breaker and this is a critical consideration if you intend to wire it as a new service. Personally, I wouldn't install a panel without a main breaker whether or not it is a service or sub-panel.

To run two 200 amp services, you would typically need to use 3/0 AWG copper wire for the service entrance conductors. This wire size is generally suitable for a 200 amp service. However, it is always recommended to consult with a qualified electrician to ensure proper sizing and installation according to local electrical codes.