New Electrical Work

In standard construction this would require a 15 amp breaker and 14 gauge copper wire.

In a flexible cable, the brown is the "line" voltage and blue is "neutral", often tied to ground at the mains panel.

In fixed cables, i.e., "behind the walls", the UK wiring standard changed in 2004, where it now MATCHES the flexible cable: brown is line, blue is neutral. Prior to that, blue, red or yellow were acceptable LINE conductor colors and black was neutral.

no you can't

Typically you don't want more than a 10% drop in voltage. If it were a 120 VAC circuit that would be a drop of 12 volts. At 20 Amps that is a resistance of .6 ohms. That is about 380 feet.

Allowing for a 10% drop in voltage would allow you to run 20 amps on 12 gauge copper to 151 feet.

Also, the NEC suggests, but does not require, that voltage drop be limited to 3% on branch circuits. In the field this is treated by most electricians as an absolute requirement, not a suggestion. This allows you to run a 20 amp load to only 45 feet on 12 gauge wire. Notice that voltage drop is calculated based on connected load, not the rating of the circuit. A 20 amp load would be connected to a 25 amp or 30 amp circuit, requiring larger wire and allowing for longer distance.

In a home a 30 amp circuit would most likely be 240v and would require #10 gauge conductors. Using these numbers to calculate a 3% voltage drop allows you to run this circuit 145 feet. At 120v on #10 gauge wire a 20 amp load can be run just over 72 feet.

No. 20 gage wire is only rated for low voltage. I wouldn't do it like that if I were you

No, amperage is not additive, but a constant. Think of power as water, its always the same temperature, hot (amps). The pressure is variable (volts). The true answer is undoubtedly more complex, but you get the point. If you need to draw 200 amps you would actually need a 400 amp service because code states you cannot have more than an 80% load on a breaker

That's an interesting question and I had to run the theory through my brain a few times to confirm my answer. The answer is if you have a 100A 240V service, you could draw what appears to be 200A from that panel at 120V.

If you install 100A 120V single pole breakers on each side of the panel (in reality this would be many breakers but let's keep it simple) then both breakers will operate just fine, giving the appearance of 200A. In reality, however, one breaker actually feeds through to the other breaker. The neutral only carries the unbalanced load so in this hypothetical situation the neutral at the panel carries 0A.

So the answer to the question is...if you install ONLY 120v single pole breakers, you can run up to 200A on those circuits (or 80% of that as we have discussed.) But you are only running 100A on each leg of the service conductors and breaker.

Yes rapest are real in fact 15%-25% of woman have claimed to be raped as a kid & 5%-15% of men have been raped as a kid. & there's a 10% chance you'll get raped by a stranger 30% by friend,classmate or neighbor 60% be a relative

NaN just means your app has encountered an arithmetic error. The data is impossible. This usually happens with badly designed software on attempting to divide by 0.

No, code does not allow that.

A 14-gauge wire (14-3) is typically rated to carry up to 15 amps for a maximum of 120 volts. However, for safety and to prevent overheating, it's often recommended to limit the load to 12 amps when using this wire. Always consider the specific application and local electrical codes when determining the safe current capacity.

Depends on many factors. Size of the home, location, and municipality codes. Get estimates from local electricians.

All depends on how big your main breaker is and what size wire you are using,one 20 amp outlet needs #12 wire not more than 50feet away from main breaker

Since you're only going 6 meters as your distance the voltage drop will not be a significant issue and you can use #12 AWG that is rated for 20 Amps

If you truly have only 60 Volts from a 120 volt outlet, you need to contact an electrician to help you find the problem. You most likely have a neutral that is not properly tied to the center tap of the service transformer. It is not recommended that you attempt to repair that yourself.

The simple answer is you can't. However, there may be other ways to calculate it.

If you know the voltage rating (E) and wattage rating (P, for Power) of the item, such as a light bulb, you can calculate the expected current (I) of the item using the formula P = IxE and then substituting the current into the formula E = IxR to calculate the resistance (R). Simple high school algebra will solve these equations.

If an item is not rated in watts it may be rated in volt-amps (VA) which can be used in the same formulas in the place of P.

Some items, such as flourescent lamps, motors, electronics, anything with a ballast, etc. etc., are not purely resistive so calculating resistance is meaningless for practical purposes.

AWG 12/2 with ground on a dedicated circuit with a 20 amp breaker. That will safely supply 1920 watts of continuous power.

No more than 13 maximum on a 20 amp circuit.

Depends upon what you're "reading", but that would certainly be a slightly higher than normal reading on each leg, as long as it is LESS than 200 amps!

You would generally want no more than 160 amps, which is 80 percent of max.

Depends on how far you want to carry that load.

For short distances, 6 AWG THHN rated at 90C, used at 30C ambient, is permitted for up to 75 Amps when in a 3-conductor cable or conduit.

In free air, it may be "capable" of handling up to 105 amps.

NEC Table 310.16 and 310.17.

Can it run a : model-bq323pa-ice cream machine.

220volt/50hz

Power consumption : 1.7kw+0.3kw

Pre coolingrefrigerant:R134a

500 mcm (or 500kcmil) conductors are used for 400 amp 480v single phase or 3 phase systems. The wire AND THE TERMINALS must be rated for 90o Celsius.

It is difficult to believe that anything has a 100% efficiency rating, even an electric heater. Electricity is very good at producing heat. Any loss of efficiency would be in how much heat is lost to the surrounding equipment and building structure in the immediate vicinity of the heater, which may be in the basement, as opposed to heating the air in living or working areas which is probably what you want.

Electricity is very expensive when compared to other forms of heat, such as natural gas.

Is the GFCI wired correctly. Voltage in goes to LINE. Voltage out goes to LOAD. Ground wires connect together and connected to ground on GFCI. All screws tight. If all this is correct and you have no loose wires on any of the outlets and no wires are shorted out in any of the outlets then more than likely you have a defective GFCI. Replace it with another one. I get bad ones all the time.

Yes, because the wire-mold is just a slip together fitting, a positive ground medium can not be obtained. There are ground screw at all fitting junction boxes. Terminate the ground wire on these screws to make the grounding continuous.