New Electrical Work

Yes, because the wire-mold is just a slip together fitting, a positive ground medium can not be obtained. There are ground screw at all fitting junction boxes. Terminate the ground wire on these screws to make the grounding continuous.

You might think this is a good idea, but it isn't. The code requires a single cable of the required current carrying capacity. What would happen if one of the cables was damaged and the hot wire severed. Then the other would be carrying 40 amps and you wouldn't know it until your house burned to the ground.

<<>>

No, the electrical code states that no conductors of similar conductivity in sizes smaller that #1/0 copper shall be permitted in parallel.

In the US, the common usage of these colors is:

BLACK: Hot - connected to one phase of the service AC.

WHITE: Connected to the Neutral of the service AC.

GREEN: Connected to the GROUND bus at the service entrance.

At the service entrance, the GROUND and the NEUTRAL bus are connected together.

I do not know of a specific code in the United States. However, a flourescent fixture should be covered if breaking a bulb would create serious problems, such as in a kitchen, a place where children play, etc. In lieu of covering the whole fixture they manufacture tubes that cover the bulbs themselves for the same purpose.

Based on your description it is very likely that either the red wire or black wire is switched and the other is on all the time. In most cases the light of the fan, if it has a light, is connected to the switched wire and the fan is connected to the unswitched wire. This allows you to turn off the light while allowing the fan to remain running. There is no way to know without testing which wire is switched.

The white wire is the neutral, connected to the white, or neutral, or common conductor of the fixture. There should also be a bare or green wire in the box to connect to the ground wire of the fixture.

No, the neutral is only needed at the load. This is where the connection is made to the light fixture.

Generators should not be wired directly into your distribution panel. The generator should be wired through an approved transfer switch by a licenced electrician. To do otherwise would be sheer folly and leave yourself vulnerable to a void insurance policy on your dwelling should any mishaps occur because of the project not getting proper approval.

======================

The biggest danger to direct wiring a generator is that you can have the breaker feeding from the generator on at the same time that the main breaker for your primary service is also on. This feeds the generator power out of your building, to the utility pole, to any lines still connected to that utility service and possibly other customers or buildings. This supplies power to the utility lines when the repair workers may be under the impression they are not live.

On the other hand, if you direct wire a generator without a transfer switch, and fail to turn off your main breaker, when the primary service is restored you now have 2 sources of electrical power on the same lines and I cannot fathom the dangers involved.

But the direct answer to your question is, Yes, 10 gauge wire is sufficient for any 30 amp breaker provided you aren't running several hundred feet.

It can but it is not a good idea to to so. The heat emitted by the base board heater rises. Any wiring coming into contact with this heat will have to be de rated to a lower ampacity.

Yes, # 4 AWG copper and 100 amps is the max.

You are probably measuring between the one leg of the 240 volts and the neutral or the ground pin connection. Take the measurement from the two outside blade holes on the receptacle. There the reading should be 230 to 240 volts. Between either of the outside blade holes and the neutral or ground you should read around 120 volts.

Depends on the amperage of the Jacuzzi and if it is 120 or 240 volts.

Six KVA is the same as 6000 watts. As you can see, the appliances have to be totaled up to the amount of 6000 watts to see how many can be used. Each device has its own wattage on the manufactures label and it is usually different for different appliances.

Depends on what you are asking about. I can tell you that all garage outlets must be protected by a GFCI circuit. You can install as many or as little as you want as long as there is at least 1 outlet on each wall. Any freezer or refrigerator must be on a dedicated circuit. There must be a light switch by the doorway mounted 48" to the top of the switch box. If you have 2 entrances into the garage then install a 3 way light switch so the lights can be turned on/off at both locations. Outlets cannot me mounted higher than 48" above the floor. I would install the outlets on 1 circuit and the lights on another circuit unless you only have a couple of lights. Use AWG #12 wire for the garage protected by a 20 amp breaker. If the garage is detached from the house then you need a disconnect in the garage. Any 240 volt outlet must be on a dedicated circuit protected by the proper breaker and correct size wire needed for the device.

AC depends on a lot of things. It's not as simple as you think. It depends on ceiling height. Sun exposure. Your climate. And part of the cost may include a crane to get air handlers up on the roof. You should consult with some reputable commerical HVAC dealers in your area to create a good workable solution.

AC isn't cheap. The unit for my 1400 sqaure foot house with 9' ceilings is about $7000 and I still have to run the duct work.

Usually yes. A typical 480 volt panel is a 3 phase panel with 480 volts line-to-line and 277 volts line-to-neutral. However, I did once see a panel that was 480 volts, 3 phase, but because it served only motors it did not have a neutral. (a 3 phase motor doesn't use a neutral.)

Similarly, if a panel uses only 2 legs of a 3 phase 480 volt system, which would be called single phase, it would not require a neutral if it only feeds 480 volt single phase loads.

But I find the idea of no neutral to be extremely unusual and in my one personal experience, I blamed it on the age of the system. In 16 years of commercial and industrial construction I have never installed a 3 phase panel without a neutral and all my work is designed by engineers.

The motor connection diagram should be on the inside cover plate of the motor's junction box cover. To reverse the motor direction just reverse the starting winding leads while leaving the running windings just as they are. The starting winding numbers are sometimes numbered 1 and 4.

10 mm2 cross section should be sufficient (#6 wire?)

In the United States and according to the NEC, in commercial and industrial installations, you are limited to 10 receptacles on a 15 amp circuit. The size of the wire is not a determining factor.

There is no limit to the number of receptacles on a circuit in a home and there may be local codes where you live that have stricter requirements.

First thing to do is check your meter against a known voltage supply and make sure that the meter is zeroed out. On analog meters the needle can be adjust to the zero point on the scale.

The chances are that you are very close to the supply transformer. The voltages are high in these locations to compensate for voltage drop further down the line. Some one on the end of the line may have complained about low voltage and this is why the voltage was boosted.

If there are primary taps on the transformer they can be adjusted to lower the secondary voltage output.

The power company usually does not believe the customer when the say the voltage is high or low. Check your 120 volts. Request that they send out one of their representatives to check your voltage. State that light bulbs are blowing frequently and not reaching their specified life. If your 240 voltage is high, the 120 volts will also be high.

--------------------------------

If all that fails to correct the problem, you can install a 1 to 1 transformer with multiple taps prior to your main service panel. This will allow you to slightly reduce your voltage. This is not a job for an amateur. If properly sized and installed, the transformer will probably outlast any other piece of equipment. If improperly sized and installed, it can be a hazard and possibly deadly. -- Sparkfighter

The height is usually based on the type of mirror that is to be installed above the sink. Take the height of the sink plus the height of the mirror and add 6 inches to find the center for the placement of the fixture junction box. If there is to be a space between the sink and the mirror add that measurement in to factoring of the height.

It depends on how many amps each TV draws. The continuous load should be 80% of teh breaker or 12 amps. If an average TV draws 2.5 amps that would be 4 TVs. Look for a rating plate on TV and just add the currents up.

2 Meters

For a fixed resistance (ohms) current increases as voltage increases. Since Watts equals Volts x Amps x Power Factor then Watts would increase as voltage increases. The resistance would usually be fixed, but if you had a variable load resistance as the resistance decreased and the voltage remained constant, the current would increase and watts would therefore increase.

Watts = Volts x Amps x Power Factor

Volts = Amps x Ohms

Power Factor is 1 for a resistive load.

The quick answer is you don't. Normally a 220 V fixture would be in a commercial location. Since Voltage = Current x Resistance the current for the 220 V case would be 220/R. Since R won't change your new current would be 110/R. Depending on the lamp type, the lower current will make the bulb dim or it won't light at all. Always use the proper voltage for a device to avoid dangerous situations.

no but connector used in 110 rated have to be different in 220 rated system

------------------------

They are very much different. If you place a 110v rated fixture on a 220v circuit, all else being equal, you will double your current flow and odds are it isn't designed to carry twice the current. It will burn out.

On the other hand, if you place a 220v rated fixture on a 110v circuit, all else being equal, you will only draw half as many amps as it is designed for and likely won't get any light. It won't burn out, but it almost certainly won't work.

There are many fluorescent light fixtures that are rated for more than one voltage, however. They have internal mechanisms that allow you to connect them to different voltages and still work properly. But the fixture still has to be rated for the voltage that you connect to it.

The first answer above is correct in that cord and plug connections in the same installation (home, building, business) must be different for different voltages.