New Electrical Work

You need two forms of grounding according to the code. Grounding to the water main is typically the best ground in a building. If you don't have a water meter you can add an extra ground rod.

That is called 4 way intermediate switch wiring. Click the link to watch a video I have posted showing how to wire just such a circuit.

AWG 12/2 requires the use of a 20 amp single pole breaker.

If they are on the same circuit you only need 1 neutral wire in the circuit.

Always parallel. Homes should never be wired in series. (That would be like the old Christmas tree lights where, if one bulb burned out, the entire string would not light up.)

no

8 amp

An incandescent bulb has a filament that has a resistance. The value of the resistance determines the current that will flow for a given supply voltage. The heat generated by the current flowing through the filament gives off light. As the resistance of the filament decreases the current increases and you get more light.

As of 2014 all refrigerators must be on a GFCI protected circuit and it must be readily accessible. If you wire the refrigerator on a 15 amp circuit using AWG #14 wire it must be on a dedicated GFCI protected circuit, no exceptions. As you will normally mount the outlet behind the refrigerator you would have to move the unit to reset the breaker if and when it tripped. I would wire the refrigerator on one of the 20 amp kitchen counter-top circuits that is GFCI protected. Now, my answer may be debatable but from how I read the NEC code you can wire it to one of the kitchen branch circuits as long as the refrigerator does not pull more than 16 amps. You might want to check with your local inspector to get his opinion as he is the one who will have the final say.

Yes. The thing that has to be closely watched is the load on the conductors. The conductors will have to be de-rated as the code only gives amperage rating for three conductors in a raceway. So watch the connected amperage to each load and fill the conduit accordingly. This supersedes the conduit fill requirements rule.

Typically 30 amps.

You can wire the refrigerator on a dedicated 15 amp circuit using AWG #14 wire but, know that as of 2014 the refrigerator must be on a GFCI protected circuit that is readily accessible. As you will normally mount the outlet behind the refrigerator you would have to move the unit to reset the breaker if and when it tripped. I would wire the refrigerator on one of the 20 amp kitchen counter-top circuits that is GFCI protected. Now, my answer may be debatable but from how I read the NEC code you can wire it to one of the kitchen branch circuits as long as the refrigerator does not pull more than 16 amps. You might want to check with your local inspector to get his opinion as he is the one who will have the final say.

There should be no joints like that inside the breaker panel. I'm pretty sure the NEC, or in my case the Canadian Electrical Code prohibits having any wire nuts/marrettes in it. Any such joints should be done outside the breaker panel in it's own junction box.

To detect and open the circuit if a thermal overload is present and to detect and open the circuit if a short circuit caused by a magnetic increase of flux in the circuit.

That depends on two things:

1. the capacity of the relay that is inside the timer.

2. the current use (watts) of the lights that you are using.

That's a matter of personal preference and the style of the lighting.

You CAN get bathroom lights that are attached to the sides of the mirror, but generally they go to the top edge.

In U.S. residential wiring it is 240 volts.

You have not provide enough information. You don't explain what 0.05 references. You need to know the secondary voltage and resistance to calculate current.

As close as you want. You must insall an outlet a minium of every 12 feet of wall space. If the wall is smaller that 24" it does not require an outlet.

I use a hammer from the floor to the bottom of the outlet. This equates to about 13".

Usual construction specifications from the electrical engineers is 300mm or 12 inches to center of the device.

In a residence the standard voltage runs between 110 and 120 Volts. Since there are two such sources of voltage you can combine the hots side of each and you'll get voltages between 220 and 240 volts (Doubling the standard). Appliances will typically run fine between 220 and 240 so you shouldn't have a problem.

AWG-8 refers to the American Wire Gauge (AWG) standard for measuring the diameter of electrical wires. The number "8" indicates the wire's gauge size, with lower numbers representing thicker wires; thus, AWG-8 wire is relatively thick compared to higher gauge numbers. This gauge is often used in applications requiring a balance between current-carrying capacity and flexibility, such as in power distribution and automotive wiring.

A total of 9,000 watts. This would power all the appliances in your home but not all at the same time.

A 120 volt table lamp with a 75 watt bulb will pull 0.625 amps. With a 100 watt bulb it will pull 0.833 amps. And with a modern fluorescent 13 watt bulb it will pull 0.108 amps.