New Electrical Work

The formula you are looking for is I = W/E.

No, it is not recommended to use a mercury lamp in a metal halide ballast. Mercury lamps and metal halide lamps have different operating characteristics and using them interchangeably can result in poor performance, reduced lamp life, and potential safety hazards. It is important to use the correct type of lamp for the corresponding ballast.

For a 60A sub panel, you would typically use 6 AWG copper wire or 4 AWG aluminum wire to connect it to a 150A main service. Make sure to consult local electrical codes and regulations to ensure compliance.

You will need to hire a licensed electrician to properly reconfigure the wiring. Attempting this without proper training can be dangerous and potentially violate electrical codes. The electrician can assess the existing wiring, make the necessary changes, and install the new receptacles to ensure they are safely connected.

For a 15 amp load at 1000 feet, a wire gauge of AWG 6 would be appropriate to minimize voltage drop and ensure efficient power delivery. This gauge can handle the current while managing resistance and heat over the long distance. It's important to consult local electrical codes and standards to ensure compliance.

To calculate the amperage in a 15kVA circuit at 440 volts, you can use the formula: Amperage = Power (kVA) / Voltage (V) * 1000. Plugging in the values, you get: Amperage = 15 / 440 * 1000 ≈ 34.09 amps.

Contactors have both power and auxiliary contacts. We use the auxiliary contact to control magnetic system of contactor. When a heater , relay or a key warn the contactor it is energized and by the typical magnetic interaction it opens its closed power contacts.

No, it would not be safe unless you replace the 20 amp circuit breaker with a 15 amp one. All the components of a circuit must meet the minimum capacity. If you replace a "big" receptacle with a weaker one, it may cause problems.

Of course it is physically possible. However, I strongly suggest you check with a qualified electrician who knows the particular electrical and building codes for your area as they can vary. Done incorrectly, you run the possibility of electrocuting yourself or someone else who uses that outlet, or setting your house on fire.

It really depends on the size of the vacuum or buffer. Considering that the typical outlet in a house is (approximately) 115 volts and will handle 15 amps of current, the most the generator would need to be is 115V x 15A or 1725 watts continuous power. You can check the amperage rating on your vacuum or buffer to get a more accurate answer for your situation.

1. This is normal if your neutral conductor or a busbar is under size wherein the source is a 3 phase + N + E. 2. Most pre-fabricated 3 phase panelboards have a neutral busbar size just equivalent to phase busbars . 3. When your loads are mostly or all 1 phase in a 3 phase panelboard -- the Neutral Busbar is overloaded and heating will occur or melting. 4. When planning or designing this is given attention in specifying or computing details prior to manufacturing or fabrication of panelboards. 5. If the heating occurs in a conductor -- please check loose connections either side of terminations or you may trace that particular length of neutral cable if it's used (tapped) for other loads.

A 2-gang outlet box typically requires a minimum of 30 cubic inches of space for two No. 12 wires. However, it's always a good idea to consult the National Electrical Code (NEC) for specific requirements based on the box's dimensions and the wiring configuration.

well, it's not a requirement, but traditionally a single light on a single switch has hot, neutral and ground brought directly to the light fixture from the panel. this circuit is called the home run. the hot is then run to the switch and back to the light as switched hot, which is used to feed the light. in order to add a second switched light fixture on a separate switch, you could pick up hot, neutral and ground at the first light fixture and carry it in another circuit to the second light fixture (traditionally) OR to the second light switch directly, whichever is easier. if you carried the hot/neutral/ground to the second light fixture, you would then circuit hot and switched hot to/from the second switch. if you carried hot/neutral/ground directly to the second switch, you would have to switch the hot and carry switched hot/neutral/ground to the second light. the same is true if the first switch has the home run, only you would add a circuit from the first switch to the second light fixture (or switch) instead of from the first light fixture.

Since baseboard heaters come in many different wattages vs. lengths I guess the best answer would be, you can load up to 2880 watts of baseboard heaters on a 15 amp two pole breaker at 240 volts.

Yes, but you can feed multiple outlets from one GFCI outlet. Make the first outlet fed in the cicuit a GFCI. Search for GFCI outlet with Google, etc. and I'm sure you will find an explanantion of how. Most GFCI's come with instructions also.

This question requires answering by a VERY knowledgable electrician, or an electrical engineer. I am neither, but until the right answer comes along, I will attempt to provide some information which hopefully will allow a better understanding of the issues involved. A GFCI [ground fault circuit interrupter] is much different from, although similar to, a circuit breaker. The DIFFERENCE is WHAT they are designed to detect and react to. The purpose of a fuse or circuit breaker is to detect excess or MASSIVE current flow [ie. a SHORT CIRCUIT, a direct short to ground], and then very quickly turn off the electrical current to the circuit, in order TO PREVENT a FIRE. This is the only thing the breaker is designed and intended to do. This limited capability will not prevent a person from being electrocuted when a fault occurs within an electrical device, if the current flow happens to be low. Voltage and current faults which can kill a person usually will not be detected by a circuit breaker. A ground fault circuit interrupter [GFCI], on the other hand, is designed to, and will, detect those low level currents which can kill a person, BUT which are not great enough to trip a breaker. When a GFCI detects potentially dangerous current it, like a breaker, trips in order to open the circuit. Now as to WHY, when you placed two GFCIs in series [one in the breaker panel feeding one in an electrical receptacle], the first GFCI tripped when the second GFCI is "tested." When you press the TEST BUTTON on a GFCI it puts a high resistance load on the circuit, which simulates a "small" ground fault, and I think both GFCIs "see" the same fault and react as designed and intended. Again, a true professional should "bless" my comments, but I think that there is no danger or hazard in placing two GFCIs in series. On the contrary, I think there is redundant capability in the pairing, with the first GFCI functioning with, and as a backup to, the second. I suggest you contact your local electrial inspection department regarding what the code(s) say about this issue, and also call the tech support people at the 800 number on the packaging for the GFCIs. Another source of information is a local electrical engineer, if you know someone who can help you make contact. Until a more informed answer comes along, I hope this helps you to understand the issues involved.

Electric baseboard heaters are not supposed to cause soot. However; dust settles on the elements. When the electricity is turned on, the dust will burn off. There will be a trace of soot from that dust.

Depends on the chemistry, as different chemistries give different cell voltages.

If it's Alkaline, there'll be 8 cells inside.

If it's Lead-Acid, there'll be 6 cells inside.

If it's Ni-Cd or NiMH there'll be 10 cells inside.

This is assuming that all the cells are connected in series. Otherwise, all bets are off.

If you are doing this you are effectively limiting your main panel to 100 A with normal duty cycles. This can get complicated and an electrician is advised. But basically you have a 100A breaker that would typically be for 220-240 volt service and you would connect to the main of the second panel. The size of the wire between the two panels would have to be sized correctly and you would only bond ground and neutral at the main panel and not the branch panel. You might want to move some of the loads from the main panel to the branch depending on load calculations. If you know what you are doing and have access to a clamp on amp meter you could measure how much of the 200 Amps you are using at the current panel. This can be dangerous, so get an electrician or be careful.

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In the trade this is called a sub panel. It is a complicated job in as much as you have to know wire sizes, ampacity of wires and proper electrical workmanship. Such a project should be left to a licensed electrical contractor to take out the proper permits and call for proper inspections. By taking this route it will leave you confident that if any mishaps happen to the installation down the road your insurance company will be behind you 100%.

Voltage, measured in volts. <><><> This question is derived from the fundamental relationship between electrical components which is known as Ohms Law: V = I x R

where V = voltage (Volts), I = current (Amps) and R= resistance (Ohms).

Yes, it is recommended to keep both the AC breaker and furnace breaker on, especially during the respective seasons when they are in use. This ensures that the units are powered and can function properly when needed.

You would have to provide more info to be certain what your problem is. Typically a black and white wire would connect to the two wires on the light fixture. The fixture should also be controlled by a switch that "breaks" the black (Hot Wire) to turn off the fixture. If you have a volt meter you can see if there is 120Volts between the black and white wires with switch on. If there is a single white wire going to fixture (Neutral), where is the "black wires tied" to. Maybe one of the black wires has broken off the fixture.

A 15 amp circuit can handle approximately 1440 watts of power. To determine the number of plugs it can handle, divide the total wattage of the devices plugged in by 1440 to ensure that the circuit is not overloaded.

For a 100A subpanel, a minimum of 1.5-inch Schedule 80 PVC conduit or 1.25-inch rigid metal conduit is recommended. As for the aluminum wire, for a 100A feeder, you would typically use 1/0 AWG aluminum wire for a 3-wire setup or 2/0 AWG aluminum wire for a 4-wire setup. Always consult local electrical codes and a licensed electrician for precise specifications for your installation.