Saturn (car)

The differential is bad inside the transmission.

Definitely a timing chain -- I just had mine replaced this past weekend mid-way through a 12-hour drive. Symptom was a grinding sound still present when all external belts disconnected -- opened it up and the plastic guide holding the chain in place was broken, and there were chips off some links in the chain; the mechanic was amazed I'd made it without any engine damage. We got a chain replacement kit (about $150) and went the remaining 7 hours without incident.

you just fill it up to the point right before it starts to drip out, so fill it up while holding it up sideways like it goes in the car and roll it around to fill all the pockets. once you get that all together fill yours transmission to full. Then crank it up, and check it. If its not registering right play with the shifter, drive, reverse neutral etc, and check it again, and top it off. once you're good take it for a quick drive up and down the street and check it again, top it off if it needs it. then go for like a 10minute ride, then top it off for the last time and you're good to go.

The answer to your question is basically, "that depends on how you define an ocean".

Saturn is a planet that is categorized as a "gas giant"; meaning that it's atmosphere is made up primarily of hydrogen and helium, and that since the gravitational pull of the planet is so great, the atmosphere just becomes more dense as it approaches the center of the planet. There IS a molten core to Saturn, but the border between the core and the "atmosphere" may be considerably less defined than things are here, on earth.

The gravity on Saturn is so great that humans could not survive, since we would be immediately crushed under our own weight.

The atmosphere is so dense that it is difficult to distinguish it from liquid, and as such, results in the reluctance to say definitively that there is or is not an ocean.

The thick atmosphere of hydrogen and helium act much the same as would a liquid ocean, even though the two gasses are still technically not a liquid.

If you want to call the hydrogen and helium atmosphere a liquid at those pressures, then yes, Saturn is all ocean. If you want to claim that the atmosphere is a gas, then Saturn has no ocean other than the molten core.

The MAP sensor is a black rectangle bolted to the back of the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. Removed the two bolts, disconnect the vacuum tube, and remove the electrical connector. Be careful as the vacuum tube can be brittle and the clip on the electrical connector is easy to snap. Installation is the reverse of removal.

It is a plane on a device, on which the bolt head pushes (when the bolt gets screwed)

for example: on a frame at a bike, there are no planes. When a bolt shoulb be assembled there will be madea plane just for this bolt bolt. the bolt boss

it could be, that this word just emerges from a translation out of the German language.

Both, it must be grounded and must have power.

if its an automatic theres either no fluid, low fluid, a blown tranny, or its not really in gear, and if its stick shift, could be clutch, fluid if hydraulic or again blown tranny or in either case a broken axle on either side will not allow the car to move.

Under the dashboard, beside the steering column.

The key fob can only be programmed at the dealer.

NOT AT ALL

15"

take off theCorner panel get some pliers and pull on the cable

8/1 is the stock rim size for a 1994 Saturn sc

I'm looking for the answer to this problem as well. I've heard people say it could be a relay, which controls the fan's operation. The relay is located under the steering column, left side. Don't quote me on it though.

This happened with my 2002 L200. The fuel pump return is a cheap plastic component that sits on top of the fuel tank. It can easily get bounced up into the body, at which point it breaks off and fuel pools on the fuel tank. This is an expensive repair as the fuel tank must be drained, removed, repaired, and reinstalled. I don't know about the AC part though. Good luck.

on the air cleaner box to the right disconnect wire harness it pulls off. but mine was on the air cleaner box.

Yes, you will need to do an alignment.

Its best to get a cheap service manual from the parts store (or rent one from the library) so you have pictures to assist you, but here's a quick runthrough of the basic process. Block the rear wheels, jack up the front & set in on axle stands, remove the wheel. Stick a screwdriver or punch in the slots of the brake rotor to stop it from turning, (the screwdriver will stop when it hits the caliper) and then remove the large axle nut in the center of the brake rotor. Its a special size, i want to say 32mm, so you'll probably have to buy/borrow one. Unbolt the brake caliper, if you leave the brake line connected (recommended so you dont have to bleed brakes at the end) then be sure to support it on a bucket or pile of bricks or something so the line doesn't stress/tear. Pull off the brake rotor. Disconnect the tierod end. Pull the cotter pin and unscrew the nut, then gently hit the bottom of it until it pops out of the steering knuckle. Remove the strut, this is the tricky part so its a good idea to have a buddy help you out. To do this you disconnect the ball joint. (Remove cotter pin, and unbolt the big nut) Remove the 3 nuts on the top of the strut tower under the hood, allowing the whole strut to drop down. Push the end of the axle through the bearing, you'll probably have to hammer it, and then take the strut out of the car and set it aside. Now you just need to pry the other end of the axle out of the transmission. Use a prybar or very large screwdriver, whatever works best and will fit in there. They are held in by little circular springloaded clips, nothing to undo/unbolt, just pry. When it pops out, the transmission will leak fluid, so have a pan ready and probably buy an extra quart of fluid to replace what drains out. Reinstall the new axle shaft. If you haven't noticed yet, the axles will get shorter and longer, so hold it compressed, and hammer on the end (use a block of wood so you dont mess up the splines or threads) until it "clicks" into place. Dont over extend the axle either, once it pulls apart its junk. Now just reinstall the strut, ball joint, nuts on the top of the tower, tie rod end, brake rotor and caliper, torque the axle nut (get a torque wrench and look up all the specs), grease the balljoint and tierod end, reinstall the wheel, check the transmission fluid and oil, and you're done. Recommended procedure says to get an alignment after doing this, but if it drives ok then you dont really need one.

Defective casting?

Installed improperly (tightened unevenly)?

Start by replacing all the spark plugs. If that does not solve the problem then replace the spark plug wires.

The Saturn 4 cylinder engines were available in 2 styles, the single overhead cam and the dual overhead cam. In both engine types, the camshafts were always in the head, just under the top cover of the engine. If you remove the top cover (where you install the sparkplugs) you will see the camshaft(s).

I would say it can only be one of two things. Either the belt is not the correct size for your vehicle or the tensioner is not installed correctly (or no longer functioning properly).

-we had a 97 with a cracked tensioner and that's what it did so pop the tensioner off and vuisually inspect it. that's probably your problem. we have replaced ours twice. good luck

The hazard flasher unit for a 1991 - 1996 Saturn is located in the cabin, behind the front passenger kick panel. (Right side of center console.) The original unit is grey. It has a tab and release mechanism on the right side of the flasher.

the P0102 code relates to the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor. The mass airflow sensor measures the speed and density of the air entering the intake manifold. The engine computer converts this input to a Mass of air per unit time to correctly fuel the engine. the code P0102 will set if the MAF sensor signal voltage is less then 0.20volts. Code P0507 is most likely a result of the faulty Mass air flow sensor. Code P0507 will set if the actual idle speed is greater then 200RPM from what the engine computer has commanded. Possible causes for this code: Vacuum leak

air induction tubing cracked or damaged

Engine Coolant Tempature sensor damaged. Being that 2 of the 3 possible causes are air flow related, I would start by replacing the MAF sensor, resetting the computer, and test run the vehicle for a few days to see if the code has returned.