Shotguns

None published. Try shotgun collectors.

$75 - $125, depending on condition.

A couple of hundred at best.

I have one of these. Asside from the most rudimentry of cleaning I have no clue. For what you are paying, here are some of my findings. PLEASE follow ALL safe gun handling practices!

1.) Removal of Barrel: With the safety off press the action release located on the Left hand rear side of the trigger guard. Gently pull the fore end back to open the action. At the end of the magazine tube there is a 1.228 inch diameter retaining nut that holds the barrel to the frame. Loosen this nut counterclockwise. You will notice a ratcheting noise which is normal and helps keep the nut secure. Once the nut is removed the barrel can be separated from the frame with a gentle tug.

2.) Clean the bore of the barrel with your favorite gun cleaning products.

3.) The "unichoke" located at the end of the barrel can be removed by turning it counterclockwise up to seven revolutions. You will notice a ratchetting sound as you rotate the collett. The collett can then be removed with a gentle tug off the end of the barrel. BE CAREFUL not to bend the "fingers" at the end of the barrel! The inside of the collett can be cleaned using your favorite gun cleaning products. You do not have to remove the semicircular spring but if you do it snakes inside the collett to come out the threaded end of the collett.

4.) Clean the "fingers" and the threads at the end of the barrel.

4a)Insert drift or skinny screwdriver into spring between "U" shaped action arms, pull to relieve tension on the pin holding the "U". Carefully(some force may be needed) remove pin, keeping control of spring.

4b)Remove "Piston" and spring, clean tube extremely good. If you do not, your shotgun may begin to jam on "Low Brass" Shells due to fouling.

4c)remove magazine internals(I haven't found the answer to that, be careful tho, the head is rubber/plastic, and if you break it, you can't replace it.

5.) Once everything is clean, lubricate the barrel components, both inside and out. remove any excess oil from the parts.

6.) Reassembly: If necessary place the "tit" of the semicircular spring in the hole in the groove in the outside of the collett. Cam the open end of the spring in the groove until it snaps into place. Gently place the collett over the "fingers" of the barrel and gently push it onto the threads. You will hear a click when it comes home. Rotate the collett clockwise until it bottoms out at the end of the threads. Rotate counterclockwiise until the "Full" mark lines up with the red index dot on the barrel, (two clicks on mine). Set the barrel and the barrel retaining nut aside for assembly later.

7.) Pick up the frame by the stock. Use gun oil to lubricate the outside of the magazine tube. Using mild force move the fore end up to the end of the magazine tube, but no further. The bolt will be partially exposed beyond the frame. Lubricate the asccessable parts of the bolt assembly. NOTE: the action release is useful to make the bolt available. Wipe off excess lubricaant off of the bolt and frame. The wood grip can be removed when the fore end is at the end of the magazine tube, but it is not necessary. When finished use the action release to pull the bolt all the way back into the frame, (receiver).

8.) Reassembly: Move the fore end half way up the magazine tube, BUT NO MORE! Retrieve the barrel and guide it into the frame with the lug onto the magazine tube. Place the barrel retaining nut on the end of the magazine tube and turn clockwise about three turns when you will hear the ratchet. Turn the retaining nut one half turn (on my shotgun), hand tight only! Move the fore end to the fully open or closed action position.

9.) Enjoy!

Your milage may vary, no warrentee. Best of luck!

V/R

Hbbaviary

50-500 USD or more depending on specifics.

If the barrel is cut to a length of 18 inches or greater as measured from the breech face to the crown, its worth $50 to $100.

If the barrel is shorter than 18 inches, it's worth 10 years at Club Fed.

The Mossberg 195k is a bolt action 12 gauge shotgun with a two round magazine and room for one more shell in the chamber, with a total capacity of 3 rounds. It has an adjustable choke to adjust between cylinder bore, improved and full choke. The 195k uses 2 3/4" shells and it features a rubber butt pad on the stock to help dampen the shock from firing.

Photos:

http://www.box54.comex-model-195KA-195D.jpg

http://www.neaca.com/imagesGroup_Bolt_Shotguns_5_.JPG

http://www.box54.commodel195k.jpg

http://www.box54.com195ka-jp.jpg

Many of the shotguns are valued for a price close to $400, as long as they are in very good condition. If the gun is not in excellent condition, the price will be lower.

There are numerous good books on the market (although some are now out of print) covering Parker shotguns. The internet, of course, might also be helpfull. The two books I have on Parkers are. 1. "Parker America's Finest Shotgun" by Peter Johnson, Stackpole Books. 2. "The Parker Gun" by Larry Baer, Beinfeld Publishing. I suspect that both of these are now out of print, you might get lucky in a used book store though. Another good source concerning values and serial numbers would be the current edition of Fjestad "The Blue Book of gun Values". Any major book store should carry new copies of this pricing guide. Good luck

Usually, there is a floor plate area just in front of the trigger mechanism, ahd you slide the shells in there one at a time with the brass toward the trigger; that's in a pump gun. Remember, it will only hold 3 shells in the magazine, but go ahead and pump it once, and you can put another in the mag, thus having 4 usuable shells in the gun. Obviously, if it's an over/under, or side by side, you have to break it open and slide the shells in one at a time.

This gun should have been made in Belgium. Not enough information is provided to answer your question. Find out the model and use the blue book to determine value

Barrel at least eighteen inches. Have reliable witnesses, in case you want to avoid a repeat of Randy Weaver's adventures at Ruby Ridge.

An internet search will turn up some information.

The fixed choke markings are denoted by * marks on the bottom of the barrel under the forearm assembly. 3 on the left barrel and 4 on the right. *** Modified choke **** Improved Cylinder

The Winchester page puts the date at 1925 and the E stands for Black Diamond.

I'm thinking that you are looking for antique cannons that fire shotgun size rounds and that load from the "Breach" or back instead of the front or "Muzzle". A good start might be to search the following: Winchester Cannon or Winchester Model 98 That should get you somewhere ... ! Dan I'm thinking that you are looking for antique cannons that fire shotgun size rounds and that load from the "Breach" or back instead of the front or "Muzzle". A good start might be to search the following: Winchester Cannon or Winchester Model 98 That should get you somewhere ... ! Dan

You can locate a schematic at http://www.remington.com/pdfs/om/om_11001187.pdf.

It depends on the serial number, one cannot get the date of manufacture with out the serial number

$3500.00 $3500.00

In short, not much. In brand new, unfired condition you

might get $120 for it on a good day in a private sale.

In good, used condition, maybe $80.

It's not a high dollar gun by any means, and it's not at

all well regarded. Some of them can be good shooters,

and the fact that it *IS* a real gun, capable of firing live

ammunition gives it at least some value.

Sorry if that's not what you were hoping to hear, but

there it is. Jennings/Byrco is solid bottom shelf stuff.

Unfortunately, this is a Class D Felony in 48 states, and a Class E felony in the other two. The BATFE regulates prop weapons, and require that the plug be permanently affixed to the barrel by the Manufacturer.

Hope this helps.

The pump-action Model 3000 was imported by Smith & Wesson in the early '80s to compete with the popular Remington 870. It's "split lifter" feeding mechanism addressed the Model 870s biggest drawback, the possibility of a "jam" if the operator "short-stroked" the action while racking a fresh shell into the chamber.

Not long after the introduction of the Model 3000, Remington finally got around to resolving that deficiency with the Model 870's design with the incorporation of the "Flex Tab" modification.

The Models 3000, along with the semi-auto Models 1000 and the centerfire Model 1500 line of rifles, were discontinued in 1984 when S&W's corporate parent Lear Siegler was acquired by Bangor Punta.

The bad news is that few, if any parts are available are available for the Howa (Japan) made Models 3000.

The good news is that those Models 3000 were well made, durable and very robust. A special edition with an extended magazine tube and a Choate side-folding stock kicked around for years in the trunks of California Highway Patrol cruisers.

Prices from $200 to $300 USD are often seen depending on wear.

After S&W discontinued sales the Howa shotgun was marketed by Mossberg keeping the Model 3000 designation. I'm not sure how many years Mossberg sold them. Parts wise they are exactly the same.

Central Arms shotguns were made for the Shapleigh Hardware Co. of St. Louis, Mo. by the H & D Folsom/Cresent Fire Arms Co. This origanization went out of business during the early 1930's. Any spare parts for these inexpensive firearms have long since disappeared. Stocks and forearms, of course, can be custon made by any competent stockmaker. I doubt, though, if the expense involved would be less than 25 to 30 times what the gun is worth. These Folsom/Cresent Arms guns were, although serviceable, very low cost "trade guns". Any that I have seen were not only use but used hard.