You can, but it's not needed.
The factory can as they do with their fittings: MIP's and FIP's Otherwise, it is not thick enough to put a thread on the regular copper pipes themselves.
Start with one of the pipes you are connecting together. I usually start with the female half of the union. The half that has the nut on it. Slide the nut over the pipe first so you don't forget it. Use pipe dope or teflon tape on the threads of the pipe. Screw on the female half of the union and tighten it with two pipe wrenches, holding the pipe with one of them. Put the other half of the union on the second piece of pipe you are connecting and tighten it. Now bring the two halves of the union together and screw on the union nut. Do not put any pipe dope or tape on the union itself. It is a dry fit. Tighten the nut while holding the male half of the union. The second half of the union. -- I always put pipe dope on the union, it helps the union tighten more and it helps keep the threads from corroding together over time, making taking it appart easier.
It doesn't really matter. I usually put the female half, the side with the nut on first so I don't forget to put the nut on the pipe before I put that half on the pipe.
You will want to put a length of copper into the fitting and solder it before you put it on the galvanised so that you don't cook out the pipe dope. >>they also could have soldiered on a flange on copper and thread on galvanized pipe.would have been another choice
No, do not use glue. Use teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads. You should also make sure you always put the male PVC thread into the female metal thread. If you do it the other way you will tend to split the PVC fitting when you tighten the threads.
In Plumbing it is a pipe connector that also reduces the size of the pipe so two different sizes can be spliced. If you want to connect a 1" pipe to a 3/4" you would put a 1' to3/4" reducer there.
Examine the pipe, you can probably turn it out using a pipe wrench, and replace the pipe with one that is 1/2 inch longer. Alternatively, if you can get a couple turns on the pipe, just wrap some teflon tape around the pipe and see if that stops the leak.AnswerI would change out nipple to longer one, and then get a new Delta spout with brass adap. When you install spout it will go back to tile all the way. I think if you added .5in. nipple it would make it to long, then it would not go to tile wall all the way. Or do the teflon tape around pipe and see what happens. ANS 3 - The piece of pipe sticking out of the wall is a 'nipple', unscrew it with a pipe wrench, measure it and get on 1/2 inch longer, put pipe compound or thread tape on the end and screw it into the fitting . Now re-fit your faucet.
Put a thread arround the ball and measure the thread's length.
You can put a liquid pipe snake down your drain or put a hose down there
Put 4 pot in bottom left hand corner. Put flat 2 pot directly above it. Put tall 2 pot under 4 pipe at top. Put next tall 2 pot under 4th pipe 2. Put last tall 2 pot on right hand side under 3 pipe. Put down and right pipe under second from left 2 pipe. Put down and right pipe under 3rd 4 pipe from left. Then connect to vertical pipes with a right and down joining pipe. Put a down and right joining pipe on 5th 2 pipe from left. Put a down and left pipe on bottom of last 3 pipe.
simply put, a sparger pipe is a pipe designed to introduce gas into a liquid.
First, make sure the pipe threads are clean and in good condition. Hold the end of the tape flat against the pipe threads, flush with the end of the pipe, then turn the pipe clockwise, or as though you were tightening it. Put 1-1/2 to 2 turns of tape on the pipe, keeping the tape flat and tight against the pipe as you turn, then thread the pipe immediately into the fitting. The reason for doing it this way is so the loose end gets pinned down by the action of screwing the pipe in, rather than getting flipped up.