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Answer 1Your biggest concern is the toilet which automatically requires a minimum drop below floor level, and then at least a sixteenth of an inch per foot slope to the nearest sanitary sewer drain hook up. You should consult a local licensed and insured Plumbing contractor for advice as local codes prevail. Apart from that, there will be sawcutting and removal of the slab to accomodate the required trenching for piping.

The "best" way is to contact a reputable plumbing contractor.

Answer 2the best way would be to hire a licensed plumber to do the job, but basicly you would start by saw cutting the cement where all the plumbing is going to go. then run the drain outside (don't forget the water lines).then tie in the water line to an existing line(this can be done inside or outside).then determine if your new drain will tie into your existing drain(you will need 1" fall per foot on your drain.if it will not make you will need to install a lift station(a system for pumping waste uphill). Answer 3It's possible that different areas have different "fall" rates, but I thought it was one quarter inch of fall per ten feet of run.j3h

ANS 4 - I would build a 7" high sub floor, the size of your prospective toilet/shower room. This way you wouldn't have to break any concrete. Plan the drains to run outside the wall under the new wood floor and then into the ground immediately outside the wall. Run them underground to your main drain. I've done 3 this way and it works well. 7 " gives room for a 90 degree bend right under the toilet, and room for a sanitary trap under the shower, then run shower drain to toilet drain before it exits the shop. -You don't need anything like 1" per foot fall !

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12y ago

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