what country r u in if in belfast , The Yard is the best for toilets with fixing bolts for the pan . but if u can jus buy a toilet an u only hav to use 2 brass screws for the pan and 2 normal screws for the cistern
no such thing as a 4 bolt flange only 2 bolt. you have a toliet with 4 bolts....the front 2 bolts just screw into the floor.....yes....just put in a regular 2 bolt toilet and ignore the other two holes in the floor.
If you are enough of a handyman, you can remove the toilet from the floor yourself and remove the roller. I once had to do this to remove a small hairbrush that one of my kids flushed down the commode that got stuck in the bend of the toilet. To do so, you will need to: 1) buy a new wax seal to replace the one currently installed at the base of the toilet that creates a seal between the toilet and the floor - you won't see the seal until you lift the toilet off the floor - you will also need to buy replacement bolts to replace the bolts that are currently holding the toilet to the flange in the floor 2) scoop the water out of the tank on the back of the toilet. Use towels or rags to soak up what you can't scoop out. Place the tank lid somewhere away from the toilet where it won't be in the way and won't get broken 3) do the same with the toilet bowl 4) put on some gloves - the next few steps are messy 5) put lots of towels or rags down around the base of the toilet to soak up the liquid that is still in the toilet that you couldn't scoop out 6) pry off the rounded plastic caps on the base of the toilet that cover the ends of the bolts that hold the toilet to the flange 7) remove the nuts from bolts if possible. If you can't unscrew them because they are so corroded, use a hacksaw to cut through the bolt below the nuts to remove them. 8) lift the toilet off the floor and place it on its side 9) dig around in the opening in the bottom of the toilet until you get the stuck item removed - and try not to gag too bad 10) remove the old wax seal that was sealing between the toilet and the floor 11) replace the bolts in the flange that is sticking out of the floor that the toilet sits on 12) put the new wax seal on the flange 13) replace the toilet 14) secure the toilet to the flange again by tightening the nuts on the bolts 15) replace the plastic caps over the bolts (assuming you haven't lost them) 16) put the lid back on the tank 17) flush the toilet a few times to make sure it works and that you have a good seal at the base - if you messed up with the seal on the base - pull the toilet up again and try again - possibly with yet another new wax seal.
You can build a platform to raise the toilet enough to connect to it or get a wall mount toilet and frame a wall to hang it from.
The recommended height for a toilet flange to be installed above the floor is typically around 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.
You can purchase toilet cubicles from companies such as DEBO or Cubicle Centre who specialize in the fixtures. It is also possible to make or craft your own as it is really only 3 or 4 slabs of any thick material held together through bracers and bolts.
I assume you have a floor flange in place or are replacing an existing toilet. The floor flange is what the toilet bolts to that holds it down to the floor. Some older houses use lag screws to hold the toilet down to the wood floor and in basements, lag screws and anchors are sometimes used directly to the concrete. If you have a floor flange, it should be at the level of the floor or up to 3/8's of an inch above it. This will allow you to use a standard wax ring to seal the toilet to the drain pipe. If the flange is below the level of the floor, use an extra thick wax ring or double up two regular ones. You want the wax ring with the black funnel shape piece of plastic imbedded in it. There is a slot on each side of the flange that will accept a bolt. Either 1/4 or 5/16 thick. Put the bolts in the slots on either side inline with the center of the drain. I usually put the wax ring on the floor and sit the toilet base over it. Lining the holes in the base with the bolts. Sit the base on the drain, straight down. With it in place, you should have to compress the wax ring some so that the toilet will sit on the floor. Grab the toilet on each side at the back where the seat attaches and lean on it with your weight. This will compress the wax ring and make the seal between the toilet and the drain. Push straight down without twisting the toilet. Install the washers and nuts on the bolts and tighten them carefully a little on each side until they are tight. Do not over tighten them because you can break the base. There should be a cap to cover the bolt with the toilet. Put the flat white washer on the bolt first, the metal washer and then the nut. The white washer has to go on the right way up so that the cup will snap over it. The edge is beveled and the slope on it should be downward like an upside down V. Now install the tank. There is a large black foam cone that goes over the center hole in the tank and seals it to the base. Set the tank in place and install the two bolts that hold it to the base. Use a rubber washer under the head of the bolt to seal the bolt to the tank. Bolts go in from the top. As with the floor bolts, tighten them a little on each side until the tank is tight. On most toilet bases, there is a small ridge in front of the hole in the back that the tank will rest on when it is tightened down enough. With the tank in place, install the supply line and the seat and you should be in business.
The toilet can be removed fairly easily. 1. shut off water supply to toilet 2. flush toilet to get most of the water out of the tank and bowl 3. with a cup or a wet-vac remove the remaining water from the bowl 4. remove the water supply line from the toilet (usually on the left side under the tank) 5. remove the 2 nuts from the bolts sticking out of the bottom of the toilet 6. lift the toilet off of the bolts and you're done The "hole" doesn't need to be removed. Simply cut your vinyl around the flange. be careful not to cut the hole too big so that it is concealed under the toilet when you place it back on the bolts. You will also need to scrape the wax ring off of the bottom of the toilet and off of the flange on the floor. You will need to install a new ring when you reinstall your toilet Hope this helps
Factory Floor with Marshall Brain - 2008 Toilet Paper Chocolate Batteries Bike was released on: USA: 4 December 2008
depends on the size of drain piping. Most toilet either have a 3" or 4" drain. The size hole needed would be larger than the outside diameter of the piping. 3" pipe=4" hole / 4" pipe=5" hole
1. First loose the bolts that connect it to the flange on the floor and place the toilet in the bathtub 2.Turn off the water supply 3. Remove the lid of the toilet tank and flush the toilet 4. Use a plastic cup & dry sponge to scoop out water and dry up water drop. 5. Disconnect the water supply tube by turning the compression nut on the water supply valve. 6. use a flat head screwdriver to pry the caps from the washers at the base of the toilet. 7. Remove the nuts by using a wrench from the bolts. 8.Place the nuts, washers, and caps properly. 9. Hold the toilet under the bowl and rock it gently back and forth to break the old wax seal. 10. Lift the toilet off of the floor and set it down on a blanket, a piece of cardboard or in the bathtub. For more information visit mytoiletspares.co.uk
you can buy it in goldenrod city go to the 4 or5 floor to get it
For a standard toilet installation, it is recommended to use a wax ring that is a standard size of 3 or 4 inches in diameter. This will help create a proper seal between the toilet and the floor drain.