Based on the limited data in the question:-
If the toilet flush is working in that it cascades water in to the pan then the flush IS working. If the water in the pan is not flushing away and the bowl fills with water and is slow to empty leaving waste in the bowl then you have a blockage behind the "S" Bend and in to the stench pipe that carries the grey water from the shower and sink away.
Common Causes;
Sanitaryware caught in the bend and waste pipe.
Toilet cleans which have plastic or metal fixing to the bowl broken free and flushed (caught)
Toilet wipes etc caught on a breaking pipe join
Card from a toilet roll flushed and jammed
All of the above.
It might require the bowl to be removed checked. - You can by proprietary toilet unblocker liquid. However, tis can be dangerous in the hands of someone not conversant with the effects
You might need a plumber with a jetting system to break up the waste.
If the flush is NOT working in that it does not cascade water in to the pan then there are a number of causes;
Handle from the flush to the siphon is broken or unhooked from the siphon
Lift rod to the siphon has snapped
Diaphragm inside the siphon has spilt causing loss of water lift
Ballcock is jammed and not filling the flush/Inlet value on the ballcock is jammed stopping the water fill.
Corrective options;
Take the lid off the flush and check its filling, If not check that ballcok is not jammed, check the valve is allowing water through - if this area is the issue replace the upstand and ballcock
Handle has snapped from the uplifter on the siphon - - replace the handle of connecting hook
Uplifter rod broken/ water not being lifted (damaged diaphragm) - replace siphon
The toilet itself is plugged or the pipe from the toilet to the drain is plugged. It may be that the tub and sink have their own drain pipe that may connect to the main away from the toilet drain. Plunge the toilet or sometimes if you fill a 5 gallon bucket with water and pour it into the toilet as fast as it will take it, that will flush out the line. It is a greater amount of water all at once an forces out what the clog is.
Probably not. There is no vent for that drain, it did not need one for a floor drain. A toilet is trying to push against the air pressure in the drain.Normally a decent plumber will install a floor drain with in 15 feet of a vented line or will vent the FD in case irt exceeds the 15 ft ruleA Floor drain can be as small as 2" diameter and thus it is undersized for a toilet and a floor drain alread has a trap and a toilet would thus be drouble trapped
Usually toilet flange is glued down onto plastic drain pipe. There is a toilet flange that can be glued inside of plastic drain pipe also.
Yes as long as the drain has a trap and is vented
To effectively unclog a toilet drain using a toilet drain auger, first insert the auger into the drain until you feel resistance. Then, rotate the handle clockwise to break up the clog. Continue to push and twist the auger until the clog is cleared. Finally, flush the toilet to ensure the drain is unclogged.
The standard measurement for a toilet drain rough-in is 12 inches from the finished wall to the center of the drain.
The purpose of a toilet drain flange is to connect the toilet to the floor drain pipe. It provides a secure and stable base for the toilet to be installed on, ensuring a proper seal and preventing leaks. The flange also helps to align the toilet properly with the drain pipe, allowing for efficient and effective waste removal. Overall, the drain flange is essential for the proper installation and function of a toilet.
On a standard toilet in America the drain is 12 inches from the back wall to the center of the drain.
The ideal distance of a toilet drain from the wall is typically around 12 inches.
The toilet drain should be installed about 12 inches away from the wall.
The toilet drain should be located about 12 inches away from the wall.
The toilet drain should typically be located about 12 inches away from the wall.