1990 Ford Probe ldash removal?
In Ford Probe
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Remove the steering wheel.
- Remove the instrument cluster.
- Remove the lower dash trim.
- Remove the driver's side sound deadening panel.
- Remove the instrument panel shake brace.
- Remove the lower dash ducts.
- Remove the instrument cluster carrier.
- Remove the lower steering column bracket retaining screws and lower column.
- Remove the shift indicator and shift indicator bezel.
- Remove the ashtray.
- Remove the shift handle.
- Remove the floor console.
14. Remove the radio and, if equipped, the compact disc player.
If equipped, remove the trip computer display as follows:
- Remove the display cover bezel.
- Remove the 2 display housing attaching screws and pull the housing straight out of the dash. It may be necessary to gently pry the display free from the instrument panel.
- Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the display.
If not equipped with a trip computer, remove the center mounting nut access cover.
Remove the passenger side lower instrument panel panel.
Remove the glove box.
Remove the left and right console kick panels.
Remove the heater control bezel. Disconnect and remove the heater control.
Slide the accessory console back far enough to access the mounting bolts at the floor. Remove the bolts.
Remove the left and right dash side covers.
Remove the bolts from the left and right sides of the dash.
Remove the instrument panel center mounting nut.
Remove the hood release cable handle.
Remove the left and right A to B-pillar trim.
The remaining removal Steps require the help of an second person
Lift the instrument panel and tilt it toward the rear of the vehicle.
Disconnect all remaining electrical connectors, including the dash harness, the wire connector at the left-hand main harness, and the shift lock wiring connector.
Remove the instrument panel from the vehicle.
3 people found this useful
Hi. i have an 89 lx with a digital dash. well that is not too hard at all! first take off the stering wheel, 2 screws on the back and so on. it will take a bit of a good pull to get the wheel off. its really hard! then there is 3 screws above the speedometer, remove them. then there is about 4 screw…s below the ignition accross the bottom.then the whole dash around your instroment panel comes out. (may have to adjust the steering tilt to get it off) and then you can see the whole ignition. that is all that i know about getting her out. well any other Q's email: firstname.lastname@example.org (MORE)
%REPLIES% In 1990 Ford offered the Probe in a GT model with a 4 cylinder 2.2 litre turbo motor. If you are bellowing out smoke (bluish white if oil) there is a good chance the bearing are wearing out in the turbo and oil in getting in the exhaust. You can usually check the turbine shaft play in the …turbo. If the smoke is heavy white and has kinda a sweet smell or alot of moisture is comming out the exhaust pipe you likely have a blown head gasket. Answer Only going by the details you are describing I would guess your engine is worn out. White smoke is an indication of to much oil getting into the cylinders and being burned and oil leaks are a sign of defective or worn out oil seals. Sounds like its time for a engine overhaul. , EzForJesus PS a real thick white cloud of smoke is sometimes caused by a faulty modulator valve on the transmission sending automactic transmissin fluid thru the engine Answer White smoke says coolant is getting into the combustion chamber. You might a head gasket problem. If you were burning oil, you would have bluish smoke. Answer For the white smoke problem, perform either a combustion leak test(which checks for exhaust gases in the radiator,or a compression test which will tell you if you have a head problem. Answer you might try checking the end of your muffler to see if there is oil going through your exhaust system. if there is that probably means there is oil in your combustion chamber, which might be caused by collapsed piston rings. if this is what is happening you will need a new engine or you can have your engine rebuilt. (MORE)
you have to take off the axel, and replace it. You unhook the tie rod end take off the breaks and the rotor. when you get the axel off take it to any tire or automotive repair shop and ask them to take off the nut on the end oof the axel. ( they will ussually do this free of charge) when they take t…he nut off get them to take the new one and put the nut on it cause it needs to be extra tight. then reasemble the car like you took it apart the entire lower control arm must be replaced.A ball joint is offered by some manufacturers but don't try it.I have replaced them and you do not need to remove the axle or brakes or the spindle assembly.It is not extreamly hard to do. (MORE)
It really isn't hard but you need direction. Get a manual on your car from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM Jack up the car and place jack stands under a solid area Peen the safety lock on the axle nut with a hammer an chiesel Remove the axle nut with a strong impact gun and a 1 1/4" socket Remove the brake cal…iper & hang it with a tie wrap Remove the brake shoe housing Remove tie rod from spindle Remove the ABS wire harness clip in strut Remove the 2 strut bolts with a 17mm socket and wrenches Remove lower ball joint locking bolt Swing down spindle assembly and remove axle assembly from outer splines Knock out axe from transmission side Note: If axle is seized in hub, spindle assemble must be removed with axle attached and then heated and removed. (MORE)
This is not an easy job to do yourself if you only have little knowlege.. Get the Haynes Manual MAZDA 626 & MX6 FORD PROBE 1993_2001. No. 61042. This will tell you in detail how to remove & replace the balljoints .. This is not an easy job to do yourself if you only have little knowlege.. Get th…e Haynes Manual MAZDA 626 & MX6 FORD PROBE 1993_2001. No. 61042. This will tell you in detail how to remove & replace the balljoints .. This is not an easy job to do yourself if you only have little knowlege.. Get the Haynes Manual MAZDA 626 & MX6 FORD PROBE 1993_2001. No. 61042. This will tell you in detail how to remove & replace the balljoints . (MORE)
Remove belt tentioner bolt and belt (from top), and support bolt (from bottom). Remove driver wheet and unbolt sway bar, replace wheel. Remove passenger wheel and support vehicle. Remove sway bar bolt, sway bar can now swing up and down. Remove lower splash cover. Remove alternator from opening in f…ender well while pushing down on sway bar. Replace in reverse order. (MORE)
I think it's near the front driver side wheel well ..and that's about all I know If I find out more I'll post it.. Answer I have a 90' GL and the horn is on the passenger side in front of the tire under the bumber skirt. Answer I have a 1990 Probe LX, and I had to replace the horn. You'll need… to take off the Driver's Side Front Wheel. Remove the shielding to the front of the wheel, and it should be right there. Sometimes it has a weird mounting bracket, and if it's a wiring problem, you're gonna have issues, but if you're just replacing the horn, it shouldn't be a problem. OEM horns are a signel-wire connection, so make sure your horn has that option. (MORE)
Answer . \nit is on the bottom left side of the trunk must take entire panal to see it
Answer . \nit is in the back in the trunk. it is on the drives side in the bottom, kinda in the floor then there should be a switch in there. its just a white push button\n. \nACE
If it is a 4 cylinder it is on the back of the motor by the firewall.
Answer . It does not have a governor. Speed is computer controlled.. Answer . you can, however, reprogram your computer to allow for a higher max speed. However, its a Ford Probe, not a true racing car. Buy a Mustang GT or a Trans-Am, or a Camaro. Or go foreign and get a Prelude or something.…. All 1989-1992 2.2L 4-cylinder engines non-turbo first generation Probes have a speed limiter at 113mph. When the speed reaches 113mph, the ECU will shut off the fuel pump, forcing the vehicle to slow down. When the speed drops to 70mph, the ECU will reengage the fuel pump and engine control will return to normal. The circuit that controls the speed limiter is externally located from the ECU, allowing the possibility of altering the function. This will only work on 4-cylinder non-turbo models Procedure speed limiter control Gain access to either the instrument panel wiring harness under the dash board at the rear of instrument cluster, or the Electrical Control Assembly. There is a Yellow/White wire that runs between the instrument cluster and the ECU. Cut this wire and secure the ends. Reassemble interior. Tools Required: Wire cutter.... REMEMBER The 113mph limiter is there for a reason. It is extremely dangerous to drive at high speeds. Do not attempt to test the function of the limiter on public roads where you can kill yourself or others. Many tires are not designed to handle speeds this high and can explode under the extreme temperatures. Remember, I am not condoning high speed or wreckless driving . And for the answer before mine, just for the record, the ford probe was originally designed to replace the mustang. Also the probe GT may not have the 5.0, but can definitely keep up. I am a proud owner and wouldn't trade it for anything. (MORE)
Answer . \nMost sites will make you pay for info like this. There should be a digram somewhere under the hood, usually in view of where you would be changing it.\nIf not, (like me) make friends with the hottie behind the counter of your friendly neighborhood parts store and ask to look at the "H…aynes " auto repair manual for this model. (or buy it for $17.00).. Answer . \nMost sites will make you pay for info like this. There should be a digram somewhere under the hood, usually in view of where you would be changing it.\nIf not, (like me) make friends with the hottie behind the counter of your friendly neighborhood parts store and ask to look at the "Haynes " auto repair manual for this model. (or buy it for $17.00).-CE (MORE)
Answer . it would be on the floor on the driver's side in front of the seat. if you reach down with your left hand, it should be right next to the front of the seat\n. \n==\nI own a '91 GL and there is no lever or switch to open the hatchback, I have always had to do it manually. Other models o…r years may have incorporated one however, and it probably wouldn't be too hard to find. Chances are if you can't find one, it doesn't have one.\n. \n-Shaun (MORE)
Unscrew the screws on the side of the door panal and around the door handle on the inside and pull the window lever off. On Probe's with power opt's, the screws will still be near the controller, just don't pull too hard on the panel. You can unclip the controller once the panel is loose.
Answer . Disable airbag system. . Remove steering column covers and lower instrument panel cover . Lower steering column . Disconnect the shift interlock cable from ignition lock housing . The lock assembly is clamped to the steering column by two shear-head bolts. Drill heads …off each bolt and remove the bracket. . Remove the steering lock assembly from the steering column (MORE)
Answer . \nYou will have to buy a pig tail at an audio store for the factory amp under neath the passanger side seat.
Axle removal... . There is a carrier bearing on the back side of the engine block just above the oil pan with three 14mm bolts in it. You'll need to remove those. Unbolt the brake caliper via the bracket (removes entire assembly) via 18MM bolts. Remove 1 1/4 inch axle nut in the center of the hu…b. Then remove the two bolts and nuts from the strut assembly (just above the hub and rotor) and shake the assembly loose. Once the axle is freed from the hub (you may need a hammer to do this) go under the car and use a prybar or large screwdriver and pry the axle loose. It might take some elbow grease, but it will come out. When it starts to move when prying, grab it and give it a vigorous shake while pulling outward. Should slide right out. I just had to do an engine in my '89 which required the removal of the 5 speed trans as well, but if you have an automatic the setup should not be much different. Hope this helps, email email@example.com if you have any more Probe questions pertaining to the first generation. (MORE)
you need a small flat head screwdriver, a 10 millimeter socket (asmall extension helps), and if you want a small flat head screwdriver for removing all the little push clips.
Answer . \nlook up the engine cylinder numbers, then look at the front of your engine, or on the intake manifold. There will be a series of raised numbers, (you may have to clean off some grease), this is your timing order. Make sure you have the correct sparkplug wires going to the correct pl…ug from your distributor.(make sure your distributor is mounted correctly)\nJody (MORE)
Answer . 1.\nDisconnect the negative battery cable. Raise and safely support the vehicle.\n2.\n. \nRemove the timing belt. Remove the crankshaft damper retaining bolt, the damper and the timing belt sprocket. Remove the sprocket key from the crankshaft.\n3.\n. \nUsing a small prybar, pry the o…il seal from the engine block; be careful not to score the crankshaft or the seal seat. Clean the seal bore.\n. \nTo install:\n. \n4.\n. \nUsing an oil seal installation tool or equivalent, lubricate the seal lip with clean engine oil and drive the new seal into the engine until it seats.\n. \n5. The rest of the installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten all bolts to the proper specification. (MORE)
Answer . \nunder the dash by around your knees when seated...and\n. \neveryone should have a manual for their vehicle, and a professional shop manual should be available at the library in the reference section--you can make copies of the necessary information...good luck :)
There is a screw in side the door handle remove that then remove the clip that holds the door handle on then from there remove the 2 screws on the outer side of the door. then find and remove the screw closest to the dash then starting at the bottom of the door panel carefully pull out on the panel …until it pops free. then lift up on the door panel and its out. hope this helps lol (MORE)
Answer . Are you talking about when it blinks at 85 mph? It actually is still accelerating, it only blinks because the speedometer only goes up to 85. It's not a governor, it's the speedometer.
\n. \nI believe 89' was the only year for the turbo engine?\n. \n Answer \n. \nyou don't unclog them, you buy a new one.\n. \n Answer \n. \n. \nmore then likely the turbo is not clogged if you remove the turbo and remove the compressor side housing and if you notice any scrubbing bet…ween blades and housing the bearings have failed or shaft has bent.\nthe tolerances in the bearings and shaft are very close within thousandths of an inch. it will have to be taken to a turbo shop. even though it is a gasoline engine, i recommend taking it to a diesel injection and or turbo shop. (MORE)
Answer . It does not contain grease. It will either have heavy weight lube oil or in some cases A/T fluid. Normally it is checked at the upper side of the transmission. Remove the plug and if you can touch fluid when it is cold it is full. It may have a dipstick.
you have to pull out the speedometer gear out of the transmission and use a long funnel to fill it. follow the red, i think, rubber cable the comes out of the firewall right around where the console would be and by the steering. it should just unscrew from the tranny. its an easy reach, but you cant… see well while yer hands in there (MORE)
hy there there is no free diagram. i bought one myself and i am willing to share because these morrons offer nothing for free I WILL mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org to know its you.
should be able to get if from auto part store keep in mind the ford probe has a Mazda 626 moter in it so look for same year Mazda should help as well
If You have a local locksmith check with him you will find that they do this type of work and most of the time a lot cheaper then the dealers. If you get a new igniton they also can re-key to your existing key so you dont have a key for ignition and another one or two keys for door trunk and glove c…ompartment.. If You have a local locksmith check with him you will find that they do this type of work and most of the time a lot cheaper then the dealers. If you get a new igniton they also can re-key to your existing key so you dont have a key for ignition and another one or two keys for door trunk and glove compartment. (MORE)
a man shift is a manuel shift button it drops the car down a gear for passing and such
Remove the nagative cable from the battery(as to not get shocked), remove both the top and bottem bolts. The bottem one is long and is also larger and has no threads in the middle and has a tendancy to get stuck easily. Just keep losening it and pull it out while supporting the alternator. Carfully …remove the harnesses and you're done! (MORE)
you'll have to go to a local auto parts store... pick up the ford radio U-wrenches... ask them that, they'll know what you mean... it will cost under 10 bucks. then go into your car, put them in the four little holes on the side until they click and then just pull it out.
ok i just went though the same thing if it is a 2.2l.. Your water pump runs off ur timing belt so u have to take off the top timing belt cover first...umm when i did mine i took off my AC compresser cause it was a lil easier... but anyway after that u have to lossen the timing belt tensioner pully o…n the back side of the belt.. then take the belt off the cam pully... after that u have probly about 6 to 8 12mm bolts that run into the side of the block (there are 2 right under the water pump pully that are hard to see).. then after that it sould come off... it looks like it is all one piece but it splits so that's a good thing.. i hope this helps u though i tried to explain it the best i could... (MORE)
Second generation ? = Remove the screw on the rear top and the plastic push-pin.. Remove the screw in the seat of the handle for opening the door, look at the rear end of the handle and you see a small plastic clip wich you will have to press with your fingers so it will snap away from the rod and …then lift the handle out.. Remove the 2 plastic covers on the inside handle in the middle of the door if it's the passengers side and unscrew the 2 screws.. Remove the screw that is in the front end of the lower compartment, could be hard to see so feel for it.. Remove the screw in the middle under the fabric in the little side pocket.. Feel with your hands so that your fingers go between the rubber lining and the door panel. The panel is hold in place by plastic snaplocks, pull it towards you and listen for the "pops".. When it is lose all the way grab it by the bottom rim and press it lightly upwards so that it unhooks itself from the door near the window.. BEFORE you take it completely of you have to unhook the 2 plastic connectors for the side mirror and doorlocks etc. (MORE)
most people run into the problem a getting a belt but then think that the belt is too big for the pulley system. You need to look at it and see where it needs to go. if a pulley has groves on it then the grooved Sid of the belt lays in the grooves. There are also smooth pulleys. These are where you …adjust the tension of the belt and so you can get the belt on. there should be 2 smooth one on the probe but only one moves and that should be the top one. You will need a rachet with I believe a 3/4" head to put in to the square hole in the metal arm that connects to the tension pulley. perferably a tourqe rachet. You'll need to find the proper tension somewhere else though. But follow the tension pulley arm up to where it is mounted to the engine. There will be a single bolt that you'll need to loosen, do not take it out just loosen it, then you will be able to move the tension pulley enough to fit the belt on. After the belt is on make sure that you have ran it properly. To do this just follow the belt around and make sure that there is no contact of any surface to the belt besides the pulleys. after that is done take the 3/4" rachet and place it into the arm to tighten the tension pulley. Some people might need an extra person for this especially if this is a first for you. One to adjust the tension and the other to tighten the nut on the mounting bracket. (MORE)
check that the coolant fan is turning check coolant flood check if thermostat is stuck chec water pump gotta be one of the 4
The neutral safety switch is located on top of the transmission at the gear selector cable attachment at the front of the engine compartment next to the battery box.The connections are accessible by removing the battery and battery box. The switch also acts as a range finder and actuates other signa…ls to the electronic control module as well as the starter interrupt function. (MORE)
first of all close the sunroof fully, then pull down the trim cover (held on by pop type clips). Then you will see 4 10mm nuts, 1 in each corner. Remove them and then carefully lift up the sunroof to remove.
to remove fuel pump first remove rear seat cushion by releasing clips underneath the seat. there is a cover under it. remove that and the fuel pump is right there. easy because you dont need to drop the gas tank for it . -mike-
\nI assume you have the 2.5L MPI engine. The fan switch is located in the neck of the water pump. It will have a 2 wire connector running to it the connects via a plastic retainer. Disconnect that then remove the switch. You will need to use a wrench a socket will not fit. Hope that helps.
motorcraft.com shows for the 1990 Ford Probe 2.2 L ( 133 cubic inch ) 4 cylinder :. ignition timing :. 6 degrees BTDC , and. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------. 9 degrees BTDC - manual transmission - with turbo - with self te…st connector grounded (MORE)
\nHi\n. \nYou wanted to remove the rear seat of a 96 Ford Probe.\n. \nFirst you must very carefully (as with the entire procedure) remove the kick panels on the left and right side of the seat as these hold the carpet down and you need access to bolts holding the lower portion of the seat which ar…e under the carpet.\nTo get to the rear bolts the split rear portion of the seat must be removed by accessing through the trunk. This is accomplished by rolling up the carpet attached to the seat which covers the spare tire to get to the bolts.\nThere will be little plastic "stays" which hold the panels and in other places, if these break they can be obtained at a an auto parts store, however the rule of thumb here is to be very careful and take your time.\nI cannot possibly diagram where all the bolts and retainers are located so you have to very carefully look for them.\nHope this helped.\n. \nStan (MORE)
in the 3.0l models it is located right on top of the transmission. It makes a difference in sensors if you have the analog or digital cluster on the dash.
The 1993 Ford Probe rear brake light lens cannot be removed. Thetail light are a complete seal light. The light bulb's can beremoved from the rear of the light assembly.
On a LX it is located right on the washer fluid tank at the bottom. You will need to pull out the coolant overflow tank. The coolant tank and the washer fluid tank are one unit. it is a piece of cake.
2.2 L - 4 cylinder ( Motorcraft BXT56 ). 3.0 L - V6 ( Motorcraft BXL58R / Motorcraft BXT58R - " top of the line " )
most of the emounts are located on the transmission so you should be able to do it with out even having to brace the tranny.... it is possible you just have to have patients and go slow takin it out, it'll be tight.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. . Raise and safely support the vehicle. . Remove the right-hand halfshaft (axle) . From the rear of the alternator, depress the lock tabs on the wiring terminals and pull the terminals straight off. Mark the location of the wires prior to removal so they can… be reinstalled in their original positions. . Loosen the alternator adjustment and through bolts to allow the alternator to pivot. Remove the alternator drive belt. . Remove the alternator adjustment bracket, lock bolt and through bolt. . Hold the alternator to prevent it from falling and remove it through the space left from the removed halfshaft. To install: . Position the alternator and loosely install the mounting and adjustment bolts. . Install the drive belt and adjust the tension Tighten the through bolt to 27-38 ft. lbs. (37-52 Nm) and the adjusting bolt to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-25 Nm). . Connect the wiring terminals at the rear of the alternator. . Install the right-hand halfshaft. . Lower the vehicle. Connect the negative battery cable. (MORE)
ok i have a 1994 ford probe 2.0, it should be the same, the alternator is behide the engine, i did it with just normal tools and didnt have to remove the cross member or half shaft, what i did is 1 remove negative terminal 2 jack the car up as far as you can 3 i unloosend the bolt that moves t…he alternator back and forth a little then went under and loosend the mounting bolt as much as i could 4 then i went back to the bolt that moves the alternator back and forth and took it out completely (pain in the butt bc u can only move the wrench 1/2 a turn a time, use extensions if u have) 5 remove the mounting bolts completely 6 then with the bolts out i used a hammer to remove it from the mount under neath 7 now with it free i took off the wires (thee is a nut holding the negative on pop the black cap with a flat head and remove it. 8 then i removed the mounting bracket (3 bolts) 9 then here comes the fun, i took the old alternator out by the half shaft i used a hammer and cow bar, and twist it so the pulley is facing the other pulleys (or just how eve u can) 10 to get the new one in all i did was play with it to get it over the half shaft and a little muscle to push it up in and got it. 11 then just reinstall everything. there is 2 other ways to do it and one is remove the half shaft and that would make life simple also u can remove the crossmember and pull it out back and down by the exost pipe it took me 2 days to figure this out so i the bolts are all 1/2 or 7/16 (MORE)
WAIT UNTIL ENGINE IS COLD - DANGEROUS TO DO WHEN HOT OR EVEN WARM... First - remove the air intake. You'll see there's a few bolts holding it in. Removing it will open up access. Pay attention to which bolts go where. Take a couple of digital photos as you go so you can see which bolts are screwed… into which parts when you put it back together later. You need to disconnect the hose on the left side running into the radiator. Do this by using pliers (or similar) to squeeze and loosen the clamp (or unscrew if it's a screw-in clamp). When lose, slide the clamp back down the hose and then you'll be able to wiggle the hose loose. Repeat this for the smaller hose on the right side and also unbolt the secondary mini overflow tank thing next to it. Ideally you need to SAFELY get below the car, undo the clamp on the bottom right side and all the hoses will be disconnected. Disconnect the fans. There are electric clips that you can undo (don't yank it, there is a simple mechanism) in front of each fan. Now you hoses and fans electrics are not connected, then you can undo a small number of bolts at the front (from the top) that hold the arms that, in turn, lock and hold the radiator into place. Once the bolts are off, the arm just slides off and then you can pretty much pull it straight out. There are (MORE)