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Three-wire dryer outlets are generally composed of two hots and a grounded conductor. This grounded conductor may either be insulated, in which case it is the intentionally grounded "identified" conductor or neutral, or bare, in which case it is the grounding conductor.
In either case, the grounded conductor will provide a ground path for the equipment frame connected to it.
The obvious limitation in this scenario is the adequacy of the circuit to supply the device, in this case a welder.
Bear in mind that there is no such device as a "dryer outlet." That is simply the device's most common use, hence the name. It's proper name/description is a NEMA 10-30R receptacle.
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Canada uses NEMA 14-30R which has both neutral and Ground as well as 2 hot wires, so could potentially be plugged in as long as the welder is not rated more than 30 amps. But as a general rule of thumb, if you can't plug it in without modifying any part of the circuit, then the answer is no, it can't be done. Also these circuits are dedicated so only one thing can be on the line.
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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
The ground or neutral is wired to the "L" prong of the plug and the two "hot" wires attach to the straight prongs of the plug.
It may be a 220 Dryer, and you will need a new outlet installed. There should be no extra wires when connecting the Power cord to the plug
My question is WHY did you replace a four prong dryer plug with a three prong! 220 volt Electric dryers require two hot legs, a neutral and a system ground wire. Sounds as though you shunted one of the hots or the neutral. You need to install a four prong plug of the same configuration and wire it exactly as the original.
First you need to know that an electric dryer is almost always a 30 amp 220 Volt power supply. Most small welders require a 50 amp 220 volt power supply. Check your welder's power requirement. If it requires 50 amps, it'll never work correctly on 30 amp.The plug conversion is simple. The wire your dryer is powered by will have two "hot" legs, the red and black wires. These supply the 220 volt. Then it has a ground (bare copper or green conductor. And last it has a white wire, the neutral.Your 3 prong plug on your welder only requires the two "hot" legs and the ground wire. You shunt the neutral white wire with a wire nut.
Ground wire
The four blade dryer plug brings a separate ground wire from the machine to the electrical grounding system. The three blade dryer plug depended on the neutral wire of the plug to make this connection.
It may be a 220 Dryer, and you will need a new outlet installed. There should be no extra wires when connecting the Power cord to the plug
The second ground prong grounds the frame and shell of the dryer. You can attach it anywhere on the frame if there is not a specific terminal for it, or just ignore it. The two hot and 1 ground should let it function. Do not ignore the green wire or grounding conductor. Remove the bonding jumper from the neutral terminal (grounded conductor, white wire) that bonds the neutral to the metal frame. The screw on the metal frame of the dryer the bond strap connects to is where you want to land the green wire. Save the bond strap you might have to convert it back to three wire in the future.
Only if you wanted to fry your hair.for God sake(and yours)buy a new cord to hook up your dryer
My question is WHY did you replace a four prong dryer plug with a three prong! 220 volt Electric dryers require two hot legs, a neutral and a system ground wire. Sounds as though you shunted one of the hots or the neutral. You need to install a four prong plug of the same configuration and wire it exactly as the original.
First you need to know that an electric dryer is almost always a 30 amp 220 Volt power supply. Most small welders require a 50 amp 220 volt power supply. Check your welder's power requirement. If it requires 50 amps, it'll never work correctly on 30 amp.The plug conversion is simple. The wire your dryer is powered by will have two "hot" legs, the red and black wires. These supply the 220 volt. Then it has a ground (bare copper or green conductor. And last it has a white wire, the neutral.Your 3 prong plug on your welder only requires the two "hot" legs and the ground wire. You shunt the neutral white wire with a wire nut.
Ground wire
The four blade dryer plug brings a separate ground wire from the machine to the electrical grounding system. The three blade dryer plug depended on the neutral wire of the plug to make this connection.
No, the wide prong is neutral it is the white wire. The narrow prong is hot it is the black wire. The round prong (in a 3 wire plug) is safety ground it is the green wire.
Yes, provided that you have a ground wire in the box and that the ground wire is properly connected in the electric panel.
The ground wire should go from the dryer directly back to the distribution panel. An external ground wire is not required. The ground wire that is in the cord set that is connected to the frame of the dryer and the ground wire that is in the feeders coming from the distribution panel, that is connected to the ground terminal in the dryer receptacle, is all that is required to satisfy the code requirement.
No.
=== ====== === Old practice [accepted by National Electrical Code requirements] allowed the frame [chassis] of dryer to be bonded to the neutral conductor by a link to provide ground. New NEC requirements call for separation of neutral and ground paths. In a new house, or if you install a new cable to feed the dryer, you would be required to run a wire with an insulated neutral and a ground wire [10/3 with ground - 4 wires]There are 2 possibilities:One is that there is actually a 4-wire cable feeding that outlet, in which case you CAN change the dryer outlet to a 4 wire type - you just have to put the right wires on the right terminals and make sure the ground is connected in the panel. [Even though we only used 3 wire outlets, most electricians I know had run 10/3 with a ground for dryers in case the unit got hard-wired, which used to be allowed.]The second possible answer is that you are allowed [unless your township or city doesn't allow it - always check with them first] to establish a ground-to-neutral link inside the dryer unit for the chassis ground and replace the 4-wire plug with a 3-wire plug. [See NEC Article 250.140] Answer Some dryers also have devices (such as lights and the timer) that run on 120 volts. These need a neutral that is separate from the protective ground.I got a new dryer yesterday... the plug on it has four prongs and my old one has three prongs. So can the old three prong plug be taken off my old dryer and be put onto the new dryer? I notice my old three prong plug is not color coded like the one on the new one. Also when I took the old dryer off and unplugged it, a green ground wire was still fixed to it (the old dryer), so how would I ground the new dryer being that it only has three prongs? Thanks in advance. === ===