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I found my answer in at vwvortex.com forums. I didn't understand the second step, so I ignored it. Here it is...Subject: Re: 94 GLX Waterpump bad First thing to do is remove the airbox completely to gain clear access to the belt and pump.

Second is to remove downpipe to cat fasteners (have new ones on hand for reassembly (8x35)), then remove the bolts thru the engine mount brackets. The one at the trans is tricky because of the ABS (later years have more clearance). By this time you have the car up on jack stands. With a floor jack and a sturdy 2x4 jack up the engine, with jack on oil sump. The pass side of engine will lift quite high, and the pump will pretty much be raised above frame rail. You may want to fashion an upper support to keep the engine from accidentally dropping down while working on the side of it! I have a cross bar I made that clears the engine by half a foot, and I wrap a chain around it and anchor to the pass side lift hook. Before loosening the serpentine belt, break loose the pulley bolts with a 6mm Allen bit. An impact gun works well here, but the belt applies enough tension to keep the pulley from slipping while breaking the fasteners loose with a hand tool. They'll be tight! Once the pully bolts are loose, relieve tension on the tensioner with a long 8mm bolt thru the upper hole. Remove tensioner. Spin the pump pulley till the three holes in the face reveal the three 6mm Allen bolts holding pump to block. Remove all three bolts. With a pry bar, pry the pump loose from the block and watch the coolant pour out! Installation is reverse of removal. Just make sure you use a fresh o-ring on the pump body. And you may have to wrestle the drivetrain a bit to realign the mount holes. Total job takes me about 1.5 hrs.

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Q: How do you change the water pump in a 1993 Volkswagen Passat VR6?
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