In a nutshell, you need to connect your green grounding wire to the white grounded conductor (that originates in your existing 3-wire dryer receptacle that does not have a green grounding conductor).
My answer assumes that you are in the United States. If not, the information below may not apply. In 1996, the U.S. National Electrical Code implemented a new rule that no longer allowed the grounded circuit conductor (white neutral wire) to serve as the grounding conductor (green wire) for many household appliances. New installations of ranges and clothes dryers must have a separate green or bare grounding conductor.
Now, there is an exception for existing installations. I have put BOLD emphasis on parts that may apply to your question. The text in brackets [ ] is not part of the NEC but explanations added by me.
NEC Article 250.140 Exception: For existing branch circuit installations only where an equipment grounding conductor [green wire] is not present in the outlet or junction box, the frames of electric ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, clothes dryers, and outlet or junction boxes that are part of the circuit for these appliances shall be permittedto be connected to the grounded circuit conductor [white neutral wire] if all the following conditions are met.
(1) The supply circuit is 120/240-volt single-phase, 3-wire; or 208Y/120-volt derived from a 3-phase, 4-wire, wye-connected system.
(2) The grounded conductor is not smaller than 10 AWG copper or 8 AWG aluminum.
(3) The grounded conductor [white wire] is insulated, or the grounded conductor is uninsulated and part of a Type SE service-entrance cable and the branch circuit originates at the service equipment.
(4) Grounding contacts of receptacles furnished as part of the equipment are bonded to the equipment [any built-in receptacles on your dryer have a ground connection (green wire) to the metal frame of the dryer].
In summary, you need to connect your green grounding wire to the white grounded conductor of your existing 3-wire receptacle, provided you meet all 4 of the above conditions.
Yes, provided that you have a ground wire in the box and that the ground wire is properly connected in the electric panel.
No, and adapters are not needed. What needs to be done in remove the old three blade dryer plug and install a new four blade cord on the dryer.Dryer plug three to fourInstructions should come with the new cord. Open up the electrical access panel on the back of the dryer. You will see a terminal block with three wires going into it from the plug cord assembly. A red and black and white are now connected to the terminal strip. Look at the position and colours of the existing 3 prong cord and how it is connected. Make a diagram. Coloured wires on the outside terminals white in the center. From the center wire terminal you will see a jumper strap that goes to the frame of the dryer. When installing the four prong plug this jumper is removed completely. The kit should have with it a grounding lug that connects to where the removed grounding strip attached to the frame of the dryer. This is the attachment point for the fourth green ground wire from the new dryer cord assembly.
On a 240 volt outlet, such as a dryer outlet: G is Ground, W is Neutral, X and Y are the two Hot legs.
On a 240 volt outlet, such as a dryer outlet: G is Ground, W is Neutral, X and Y are the two Hot legs.
You can't! Your bus cord actually feeds some of the bus's 120V circuits using the black and the white, and the other circuits using the red and the white, so you definitely need black, red and white. You also need the green ground wire. It's required by law, but also handy to have hooked up so you don't kill anyone by electrocution. Its there for safety. The dryer doesn't use a neutral (white), this is why it has a 3 prong outlet. You cannot safely or legally feed the bus from this outlet. Don't try it! IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS. If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use a meter or voltage indicatorto insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
Green is ground and white is neutral.
Dryer plug three to fourOpen up the electrical access panel on the back of the dryer. You will see a terminal block with three wires going into it from the plug cord assembly. A red and black and white are now connected to the terminal strip. Look at the position and colours of the existing 3 prong cord and how it is connected. Make a diagram. Coloured wires on the outside terminals white in the center. From the center wire terminal you will see a jumper strap that goes to the frame of the dryer. When installing the four prong plug this jumper is removed completely. The kit should have with it a grounding lug that connects to where the removed grounding strip attached to the frame of the dryer. This is the attachment point for the fourth green ground wire from the new dryer cord assembly.
If you don't know you should not be doing it because this could be dangerous.
No, the wide prong is neutral it is the white wire. The narrow prong is hot it is the black wire. The round prong (in a 3 wire plug) is safety ground it is the green wire.
Change either the plug or the cord. The fourth prong is another ground. It would be easier to change the cord.
The second ground prong grounds the frame and shell of the dryer. You can attach it anywhere on the frame if there is not a specific terminal for it, or just ignore it. The two hot and 1 ground should let it function. Do not ignore the green wire or grounding conductor. Remove the bonding jumper from the neutral terminal (grounded conductor, white wire) that bonds the neutral to the metal frame. The screw on the metal frame of the dryer the bond strap connects to is where you want to land the green wire. Save the bond strap you might have to convert it back to three wire in the future.
The forth wire is to ground the body of the dryer. The cord should have red, black, white, and green wires. Red and black are hot, the white is neutral, and green is ground. The red, white, black in that order or reversed, black white, red, should go in a row where they connect to the dryer with the green one probably above it. If the center neutral lug has a bond to the chassis remove it. You have a dedicated wire to replace it now.
It may be a 220 Dryer, and you will need a new outlet installed. There should be no extra wires when connecting the Power cord to the plug
Yes, provided that you have a ground wire in the box and that the ground wire is properly connected in the electric panel.
Yes this is possible and for safety's sake highly recommended. Instructions should come with the new cord. Open up the electrical access panel on the back of the dryer. You will see a terminal block with three wires going into it from the plug cord assembly. A red and black and white are now connected to the terminal strip. Look at the position and colours of the existing 3 prong cord and how it is connected. Make a diagram. Coloured wires on the outside terminals white in the centre. From the centre wire terminal you will see a jumper strap that goes to the frame of the dryer. When installing the four prong plug this jumper is removed completely. The kit should have with it a grounding lug that connects to where the removed grounding strip attached to the frame of the dryer. This is the attachment point for the fourth green ground wire from the new dryer cord assembly.
A qualified electrician should make the change to a dryer connection. The best way to cheaply make the change is to change the power cord on the dryer to the three hole standard.
The four blade dryer plug brings a separate ground wire from the machine to the electrical grounding system. The three blade dryer plug depended on the neutral wire of the plug to make this connection.