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Very pleasant! The people are generally friendly, the crime rate is extremely low, and there are amenities there to cater for every taste, from golfing to hill-walking to learning to scuba-dive. Fuel prices are very low, and car hire is cheap PROVIDED you use a local, Cypriot hire firm and not one of the big multinational companies. It has a rich history, with many fascinating ancient settlements and ruins to visit, having been colonised by several nations and races since before Roman times. Despite the modern development boom in the cities, it is still possible to see some beautiful old buildings from the Ottoman and British eras., as well as relics of 1950s British street furniture and even some beautiful old British classic cars!

The main drawbacks are that there is little in the way of public transport- there are bus services in the main cities, but Cyprus has no rail network and the vast majority of people travel by car or taxi. In the Summer, it can also be unbearably hot- it is not uncommon for temperatures to hit 43 degrees Centigrade or more in July and August, which makes it unendurable to leave an air-conditioned environment and go out and do things. Some of the tourist resorts have now been over-developed, most especially the city of Paphos, and estates of holiday villas are springing up everywhere, but it is still easy to find quiet rural locations to stay in where there is good self-catering accomodation or small, family-run hotels. There also remain many unspoilt beaches- Cyprus is a great place for water-sports, and power boats & jet-skis can be hired all along the South coast.

It is possible for visitors to the South to visit the Northern Turkish sector, but hire cars from the South are not allowed through so if you wish to do this, it's best to hire a seperate vehicle in the North or rely upon taxis. You will need to show your passport at a checkpoint, and will not be allowed to stay in the North for longer than 3 days- if you overstay this period, the only way to get back to the South is to fly to Turkey, then mainland Greece, and then back to Larnaca or Paphos airports in the South. Turkish Cypriots welcome Western tourists, as they provide a big boost to their economy, and although the North is not technically a part of the Euro zone, Euro currency is accepted there.

Most Cypriots speak some English, although in more rural areas you may find that they struggle with the language, so it helps if you get to learn some Greek or Turkish words and phrases before you go. The health service is of a good standard, equal to that of the Western world, but it's important to take out Travel Insurance before you leave.

Since the Turkish invasion of 1974, both halves of the island remain semi-militarised, with a UN peacekeeping force manning the demarcation line between the two, so do not be unnerved if you see armed soldiers in watchtowers in the border areas, or convoys of military vehicles on the highways. This is all perfectly normal by Cypriot standards, and does not mean that the war is about to resume again!! The Turkish Army do artillery practice on Wednesday afternoons, so the distant boom of heavy guns can sometimes be heard coming from the North. Many semi-derelict buildings, and even villages, lie within the UN buffer zone and still bear the scars of the fighting of 38 years ago- there is also a complete modern tourist resort called Varosha that lies within the zone, just South of the Northern coastal city of Famagusta and which is effectively a time-capsule, remaining just as it was left in August '74. Under NO circumstances be tempted to explore this or any other place within the buffer zone- it may seem extremely tempting to do so, but access to the UN-controlled areas is strictly limited to UN personnel, VIP diplomats and politicians, and the occasional journalist under escort. The Turkish Army regard Varosha as a legitimate part of the North, and there is frequent friction between them and the UN over who precisely controls it. Should you wish to go and see it, NEVER try to get in and explore- the Turks won't like it at all, and even taking photographs of it is forbidden, although you can look at it through binoculars, and photos of the interior taken under special permission are available to see on the internet.

Although most Cypriots are friendly towards Westerners, you may find some of the residents of the capital Nicosia resentful towards British or Americans- the British because of their Colonial past, the Americans because the '74 invasion is widely suspected of having been orchestrated by the CIA in order to prevent the Communist Party from winning the elections. However, this hardly ever breaks out into open abuse or hostility; the most you are likely to encounter is churlish service in certain shops, grumpy cashiers in banks, and the occasional rude attitude. But this does not exist outside of Nicosia.

The rules of the road are the same as in England- people drive on the left and cars are right-hand drive, with British-style traffic lights. Motorways are not lit at night except at junctions and roundabouts, but they are so straight and easy to use that this matters little in practice.

So in all, I would thoroughly recommend it if you'd like to try it for a holiday!

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