Have one of these cars myself. The C-3 diagnostic lead is the ALDL mounted to the bottom edge of the dash just right of the steering wheel. You will need to insert a paperclip into the slot to ground terminals A and B to prevent the ECM from advancing or retarding the timing as you adjust the distributer. These are the same terminals you would ground to read the trouble codes.
ground the diagnostic connector under the dash , set the timing , then unplug connector
the hot wire goes to the starter and the ground wire bolts to the engine block.
This requires a timing light You're supposed to put a jumper wire between the ground terminal and the test switch terminal of the diagnostic connector plug before adjusting the timing. The connector plug is on the firewall under the hood, next to the coil. If you look at the socket straight on with the plastic catch on the left, ground is the lower right hole, test switch is right above it. Then hook up the timing light. The distributor is held in place by two bolts in adjustment slots. Rotate the distributor clockwise to retard timing, counterclockwise to advance timing.
The diagnostic code P1538 for a 2000 VW Jetta means the engine shut off solenoid is open or short to ground. A common cause of this diagnostic code appearing is a lose wire to the fuel cutoff solenoid.
Adjusting the timing of a 1994 Hyundai Sonata requires specialized timing tools and the knowledge to use them. You need to have a timing light which is connected to the battery and number one ignition wire. You also must have a jumper wire connected to the timing adjustment connector and ground it at the back of the engine. By starting the engine and holding the rpms to idle. Point the timing light at the distributor and make the necessary adjustments.
There are 3 different grounds. Engine to body ground. Engine to frame ground. Engine to battery ground.
You need to set the base timing. That means you ground the No. 10 terminal in the diagnostic port to the ground terminal in the same port. The diagnostic port is just inside the driver's side fenderwell and has a plastic cover that will tilt up towards the engine with a squeeze and a pull. Usually you can see "DIAGNOSIS" imprinted right on the top. The number ten terminal is the second terminal in from the right side on the top row (standing on the driver's side facing the engine; there are two sets of two) and the ground terminal is the leftmost in the second row down. A paper clip will do fine for this purpose. Then, using a regular old-school timing light, check for your mark (a tiny line cut into the edge of the crank pulley) to be between 11 and 13 degrees BTDC (to the left of the "10" imprinted on the grey plastic timing best cover). If it isn't, loosen the adjusting bolt on the top of the distributor set the timing by rotating the distributor (to the right moves the mark to the right in vice-versa). When you remove the jumper, the engine will find it's own timing on signals from the distributor and from the Crankshaft Position Sensor behind the crank pulley to the ECM. Rob @ HMAutomotive - Carson City
It is likely that you have a bad ground in the system... check all the ground wires
Special Procedure for 1990 monter. First you ground the No10 terminal on the Computer's Diagnostic port. Second, you ground the timing wire located on the fireware near the brake master. (it easy to find, its one strand wire with a connecter acting as a cover on it.) Make sure you have a timing gun, and know how to use it. Get ready to check idle speed with tachometer tool. From this point on, its conventional knowledge... Goodluck.
hot wire on the timing light goes to pos. side of the battery and the neg. side of timing light goes to ground on the engine someplace and then the plug clip goes on the #1 spark plug wire.
dead battery, blown fusable link, severely cracked or corroded cables. especially check battery ground to chassis and engine.
If the engine is fuctioning properly try disconnecting the ground battery terminal for 1 minute. If the engine is fuctioning properly and this does not cure your needs. It will have to be reset by a mechanic with a diagnostic machine for Toyota.
would have 2 say a bad ground..U have the voltage,just not a ---- GOOD ground.
The timing is ground in the crankshaft and not adjustable.
The 93 mpv ,if it has a 3.o has a belt. I have had mine break 4 times. I have 360k on the engine. It has never done any damage. The engine dies and it won't restart. It cranks but it won't start. You can smell burning rubber and if you peak behind the cover, on the left front of the engine, you will see small ground up pieces of rubber belt.
conect the ten pen and ground pin on the diagnostic tester with a jumper wire and turn on ignition do not start count the flashes from engine light to get the codes.
10 BTDC but you have to remember to ground the timing adjustment conector in the harness
1)SET THE IDLE TO SPEC., 2) PLACE TR-AXLE IN P (fAUTO) OR N (MAN),3)FIND TIMING ADJUSTING CONNECTOR FOR YOUR ENGINE TYPE, 4)CONNECT JUMPER WIRE FROM THIS TERMINAL TO A GOOD GROUND, 5)CONNECT A TIMING LIGHT TO #1 CYL. PLUG WIRE. START ENGINE, RUN @ IDLE, AIM TIMING LIGHT @ TIMING MARKS BY CRANK PULLY, LOOSEN DIST. OR CRANK ANGLE SENSOR HOLD-DOWN NUT TO LOOSEN HOUSING, TURN HOUSING TO ADJUST TO YOUR ENGINE SPEC, TIGHTEN HOLD-DOWN NUT, RE-CHECK TIMING, TURN OFF ENG., REMOVE JUMPER WIRE, REPLACE COVER ON CONNECTOR.
Add it the same place you check it, through the dipstick tube. Check the level with the transmission hot, in park, engine running, on level ground. Use only Dexron fluid. Do not overfill!!!!!
It's rear wheel drive so you want to tow it with the rearend off the ground.
Where are ground locations on engine 1982 camaro z28
the best thing to do is to ground it to the engine or starter and then run a ground from there to the chasis
there are two ways, depending if you have a friend with a timing light or take the car to a mechanic or you want to do it yourself. On the front of the engine, the last pulley nearest the ground, you will find a timing mark, this has to be concerted with a timing light. An experienced person, probably your local neighbor hood car nut can do this. otherwise, listen carefully, under the distributor head, on the shaft entering the engine, there is a bolt which holds the distributor from turning. Loosen the bolt but do not turn the distributor, hold it fast that it will not move, this is critical. This is to be done with the engine running if it will. If you feel the engine is running rough due to this problem, then very very slowly, turn the distributor one way until the engine smooths out, but not to farl. If the engine runs rougher then turn the other way for the same result. Done carefully while listening intently to the sound of the engine one can adjust the time very well. If this does not work and you fill the distributor is the problem, according to age and milage, the gear at the bottom(in the engine) could be badly worn. These to can be replaced.
proper answer: the ignition timing is controlled by the ECU , the or the engine computer as some might called. today the ECU is called the PCM. the timing is set on the fly using lookup tables inside the ECU. these tables are indexed by RPM and Load (vacuum). the base timing is set by the distributer or at a CAS sensor. (crank angle sensor ) the 95 uses a Distributor. (with a cmp/cas inside) if you timing does not advance then the ECU is faulty or one of the following: 1: Freeze jumper is shorted to ground (8vECU pin A7) or at the diagnostic connector C>D short. 2: the Map sensor is dead freezing the timing or grossly limiting the advance to only that achieved by RPM. This is a common failure mode ,and can be corrected by replacing all the ECU Electrolytic capacitors. The static timing is set to 8 Deg. Before TDC or 5 degrees, depending on whether you have a 8valve or 16v engine. if you discover the ignition static timing is off, check the can timing , and if that is off, install a new belt and idler. you will discover the ignition timing is now back to normal. (unless you messed with it). to set the static timing, place a jumper at C>D as mentioned above and then apply the timing light. rotate Distributor until perfect. jtgh
Loosen the Distributor hold down bolt enough that the distributor can be moved by hand. Locate the timing bypass connector that is sort of hanging out of the electrical harness at the right (passenger) side front strut (shock) tower. it is connected to a TAN wire with a BLACK stripe. Use a jumper wire and make a good connection with the connector's metal tab and ground the other end of the jumper to a reliable ground. Connect an INDUCTION timing light and to #1 cylinder spark plug wire near the distributor. Start the engine and move the distributor to align the crankshaft TDC mark with the 10 degree mark on the timing pointer. Stop the engine and remove jumper and timing light. Tighten Distributor hold down bolt. Start the engine and test drive. NOTE: Grounding the bypass wire to set the timing may cause a code 42 to be logged in the ECM. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes to clear the code.