When the starter functions properly but the engine doesn't start, there are only 3 possibilities:
If all three of the above are normal, the engine MUST start.
First, check the fuel delivery. Use a can of starting fluid to test the hypothesis that the problem might be related to fuel. Remove the air cleaner and have a friend attempt to start the engine while you spray a good, healthy stream into the intake. Only spray while the starter is cranking or while the engine is running. If the engine tries to start when you're spraying starting fluid into the intake, but it stops as soon as you quit spraying the starting fluid, you almost certainly have a fuel delivery problem. The common causes are; fuel pump, pressure regulator, fuel filter, injectors or crankshaft position sensor.
Next, (since starting fluid didn't find the problem) check the spark. The Saturn "S" series uses a coil-pack assembly, meaning that one coil is used for two cylinders, and each coil fires when the associated cylinders are at TDC of the compression cycle and the exhaust cycle. Use a timing light to verify that there is, in fact, a spark, and that it is relatively close to TDC as expected. Also, connect a spare spark-plug to one of the plug wires, set it on a solid metal part of the engine, then have your friend "crank" the engine again while you watch the sparkplug to see if you're getting a strong spark. If not, find out why. Usually a faulty coil-pack assembly will result in only 2 of the cylinders misfiring.
Last, run a compression test. Pull the spark-plugs (mark the wires so you'll know where they go), then use a compression gague to find out what the compression is for each cylinder. The compression should be around 85-110 PSI for each cylinder, and ideally the compression shouldn't be more than a few PSI different across all cylinders.
If ALL of the tests looked good, you have done something wrong, since as I indicated above, if you have proper fuel delivery, good spark delivered at the right time and good compression, the engime must start.
Good luck.
First check you battery. Use a volt meter must have more than 12.2 volts, if under 12 volts, charge or change battery. No volt meter, then turn on your headlights, if good, then check shifter, in park and in neutral. If no headlights, charge battery.
Check Battery cables for tightness and lack of corrosion May be starter solenoid May be starter May be Neutral safety switch
Battery cables could be loose, battery could be bad, starter could be bad, starter solenoid could be bad, ignition switch could be bad. Turn on the headlights and try to crank the engine. If the headlights dim or go out look at the cables or battery. If they stay bright look at starter, solenoid or ignition switch. The neutral safety switch or clutch petal switch could do it too.
Stop the car in a safe place at night. Put the car into neutral and apply the handbrake. Switch on the headlights. Get out of the car and look to see that the headlights are working.
Jumper cables from another vehicle or charge the battery. As soon as you connect the charger you can put it in neutral.
Jump the car from another car battery or hook a charger to the battery.
With another battery connected to the dead one or what a battery charger.
Power neutral ground
acid
Starter, battery, battery connections, neutral switch,
clicking noise is the international sound of a discharge battery. just because the lights and radio works it don't mean that the battery has the amps to turn(crank) engine. a faulty "holding winding" on the starter solenoid may also show as that symptom.also check the neutral safety switch. try a headlight start test. turn on your head lights and crank your engine have someone look at the headlights while you crank if the headlights dim it would be a good indication of a discharge battery and or high resistance on the starting circuit. if no difference on the headlights the problem may be an open circuit.(most likely a bad ground)
It keeps the electrolyte solutions neutral.