ARE YOU SURE YOU DIDN'T BLOW A HEAD GASKET ? I WOULD GET A COOLING SYSTEM PREASURE TEST THEN GO FROM THERE . IF THE MOTOR IS BUILDING PREASURE FROM A BLOWN HEAD GASKET IT WOULD HAVE WATER PUKING OUT THE OVER FLOW.. WITH THE RADIATOR CAP OFF START THE TRUCK SEE IF WATER SHOOTS UP TOWARD THE HOOD ...IF IT SHOOTS OUT GET IT TOWED TO THE SHOP DON'T WASH THE BEARINGS WITH ANTI FREEZE YOU COULD BLOW THE ENGINE
True
I'm strugling with that right now. The thermostate is in a difficult position. follow the upper radiator hose and it leads into the block under the throttle body. Remove the air filter assembly and you'll c what is the exhaust manifold crossover pipe right in front of the thermostate housing. NICE, it gives you very little room to remove the 2 bolts to the housing and once u remove those then you'll find you have the thermostate housing loose but because of that darn exhaust manifold crossover pipe u don't have enough room to take the thermostate housing out to change the stinking thermostate. So from what I can see you have to remove the heat shield which is cased around the exhauste manifold croosover pipe and if you still can't get enough room to remove the thermostate, (which I'm about to find out)then you'll have to remove the crossover pipe as well just to change the thermostate. If you (and me) do have to remove the crossover pipe then their are 2 bolts on both ends of the pipe leading into the manifolds. But then the tough parts done and once u switch the thermostate over and ATTENTION:remove any old gasket material and put a new gasket in it's place then installation is reverse of removal.
If you have had an extreme overheat in the past. This would most likely cause the censor to melt. Overheat to the point of the steering wheel locking up and the light coming on.
the one possibility that i can think of is that your thermostat is stuck in the closed position not allowing the water to circulate threw the engine
Typical causes for this car to overheat would be blown head gasket, coolant leak, thermostat frozen in closed position, failed fan clutch, failed auxillary fan or auxillary fan switch, blockage in radiator or coolant lines or an oil leak.
There is nothing to limit current until opposing magnetic fields build up at generator operating speed-windings will overheat and burn.
I assume that you mean the ignition OFF position. Or do you mean the starter moter keeps turning in the ON position rather than just the START position. This may be a possible wiring fault. If the wires became overheated and melted through the insualtion, the START bare wire may be touching the IGN/ON bare wire. Cheers Malcolm
When a vehicle does not go into gear when it is shifted from park to drive, it is usually due to transmission issues. If it has a manual transmission the gears may be stripped, if it is automatic then the transmission may have overheated.
BMW models before the mid-1990s typically overheated because of failing fan clutches. The fan clutch is in the hub of the engine driven fan . It uses thick silicone oil and a bimetal strip controlling a internal valve to allow the fan to slip more when cold. Over time a poor seal allows the silicone oil to leak out, resulting in a fan that appears to be working but spins too slowly to cool the engine when hot. Models after the mid-1990s improved the fan clutch seal, but many engines were shipped with water pumps that fail without external symptoms. BMW changed from a metal impeller to a lighter, more accurately shaped, non-corroding plastic composite impeller. With long exposure to hot BMW-specified antifreeze this composite would degrade, eventually breaking apart into the engine. Once the impeller breaks the engine rapidly overheats. Combined with the computer-controlled engine temperature indicator that holds the needle in the middle position until the engine starts to overheat, the driver has very little warning before the engine is dangerously overheated.
If you do not see coolant circulate (move) after the engine reaches normal operating temperature, either the thermostat is stuck in the closed position or the water pump is not working. In either case, the engine will overheat.
If the thermostat is stuck in the CLOSED position, the vehicle will overheat and may cause a lot of damage. If it is stuck in the OPEN positin, the vehicle may not reach normal operating temperature and the heater may only blow warm or cold air.
You might check the thermostat. It probably needs replaced. Often times the thermostat will either be stuck in the closed position, causing it to overheat, or in the wide open position causing the heater to blow cold. This is what happened to me. I took the thermostat out and the end was broken off. This made the spring release and be stuck in the wide open position. We were driving over a snowy pass at around 10 pm. NOT a fun trip.