76 Chevy 350 engine had a wiring block on the firewall with a couple of copper coiled wires I didnt think went to anything but they were hot I removed the block and engine wont start?

Answer 1

Ok, get a Shop manual with all the wiring, and go from there, it may be some kind of kill switch or alarm rig.... the local library should have a professional shop manual available for free in the reference section...:) 1. What you describe in your question sounds like an "igniton resistor," which limits current flow to and through the points and the ignition spark coil. The copper coils were the resistors, and in normal operation they were supposed to, and DID GET HOT. I think the purpose was to protect the ignition coil primary winding from overheating and premature burn out. 2. As I recall, the ignition resistor was wired in series to the ignition coil and distributor points. If this is what it was, it needs to be replaced. You didn't say what you did with the wires which fed into and out of it. IF you simply left them unconnected, then the ignition primary circuit is OPEN, thus making the ignition system "DEAD." 3. As I recall, there were only two wires, one supplying 12 volts DC TO the resistor pack, and one wire FROM the pack TO either the ignition coil or the ignition points terminal on the distributor. IF there are/were more than two connector terminals on the resistor pack, then I could be wrong as to what it was. 4. If there were only two terminals on the package, then use a multimeter to check for voltage on each of the wires, with the ignition switch off and then ON. Only one of the wires should be hot, AND ONLY when the ignition switch is in the ON position. 5. If 4 checks out, then set the meter for resistance, and check the OTHER wire for SOME resistance to ground. On an analog meter the needle will move, and on a digital meter, the numbers will change from infinity to some real number(s) above zero, IF THE POINTS ARE CLOSED. However, if the points happen to be open, then the resistance will show to be at infinity on the analog or digital meter [no current flow at all]. 6. To double check, have your HELPER crank the engine while you watch the meter. IF that wire is connected to the points, ignition coil, and ground, THEN the meter resistance reading will fluctuate between some positive resistance numbers. 7. If 4 and 5 or 6 check out, then I am right about the resistor block identification, and reinstalling the resistor block should put the ignition circuit back into operation. 8. Although I DO NOT RECOMMEND the following test, unless items 4 through 7 check out and you are an experienced mechanic, it may act as another confirmation of 4 through 7. Using a HELPER sitting in the driver's seat, prepare to crank and start the engine. 9. While your HELPER cranks the engine, YOU MOMENTARILY CONNECT the two wires together. IF I'm correct about the mystery resistor block, the ignition circuit should be functional again, and the engine SHOULD START and RUN. IF it starts and runs, that confirms the identity of the resistor block, AND THE NEED for the removed resistor block to be REINSTALLED. DO NOT run the engine very long without the resistor pack in place, as it will lead to premature failure of the ignition coil. Hope this helps. j3h.