Yes, you can. I had this very same question myself a few days ago. In order to answer it, I put a piece of Teflon tape in the flame of a propane torch. It shriveled, but did not burn or melt and when I stretched it out, it returned to its original shape. I then made a sweat joint inches from a teflon wrapped joint with no problems.
You sure want to be carfeul when doing this though. Teflon gives off extremely toxic gas if you melt it.
Teflon tape, Hercules Pro dope, pipe joint compound and quick wick , Pipe joint compound without quick quick wick , Blue block ,Teflon paste
With fllux, solder and a torch. clean both surfaces with steel wool or sand paper, put a thin film of flux on each piece on the entire area that will be joined. Heat on one side and put the solder on the opposite side. When the copper get hot enough to melt the solder, the flame from the torch will draw the solder to it. That way you know there is solder in the whole joint.
Not cleaning the pipe or joint enough, not using flux, or not heating the pipe or joint enough. You use the blue tip of the flame on the joint and the capillary action sucks the solder into the joint. You have to clean the pipe with sandpaper or steel wool, the joints with a fitting brush on the inside, and use a proper flux and solder.
Six types of bad solder connections include a cold joint with insufficient wetting (Pin) or insufficient wetting (Pad), a disturbed joint, an overheated joint, too much solder, or not enough solder.
Sweating copper is a method of joining two pieces of copper, generally copper pipes. The surfaces to be joined are first cleaned, then heated generally with a gas torch, then a flux is applied (flux is a material to prevent oxidation of the copper when heated) then a film of solder is run onto the cleaned surfaces whilst hot. This solder is "wiped" off leaving a fine film of solder on the copper. This is generally referred to as priming. The two surfaces can now be soldered together to make a water tight joint. Sometime bronze is used instead of solder but the operation is similar.
A dry joint
Easiest way to connect lead to copper /brass is a wiped joint consisting 40 - 60 solder alloy as this gives a longer pasty range
First, clean the inside of the fitting to be soldered, and the outside of the tube it is to be soldered to, with abrasive cloth, steel brushes, steel wool or equivilent. Second, apply a thin coating of soldering flux to these surfaces. Install the fitting on the piece of tubing and turn to be assured of a coating of flux is spread evenly between these surfaces. Using a torch apply heat to the base of the cup of the fitting. Using a circular motion apply heat evenly all around the fitting (at its base). When flux begins to show signs of bubbling apply appropriate wire solder at top of fitting cup. If joint is sufficiently heated solder will become liquidious and run into the joint. Apply only enough heat to melt soldering compound being used. When solder becomes liquidious remove heat from joint. Allow joint to cool and solder to return to solidus state. Overheating will cause flux to burn inside joint. The carbon formed will prevent solder from filling that area. If several of these "areas" join together, not only will the joint be weak but it will also leak!
Teflon tape is good. There is now a teflon liguid sealer also. The old pipe sealer is still good. I used a piece of radio solder last year to seal a water meter joint when I lost the meter seal. Be inventive.
A soldered joint that was done poorly.
The term "sweating" in Plumbing refers to the process of joining and sealing copper pipes and fittings by heating the copper and applying solder after the pipes/joint fitting have been properly cleaned and flux applied.
You cannot sweat copper pipe if it has water in it. You must remove the water first. Even the steam from water will keep you from successfully sweating a joint without leaks. bob...