First, clean the inside of the fitting to be soldered, and the outside of the tube it is to be soldered to, with abrasive cloth, steel brushes, steel wool or equivilent. Second, apply a thin coating of soldering flux to these surfaces. Install the fitting on the piece of tubing and turn to be assured of a coating of flux is spread evenly between these surfaces. Using a torch apply heat to the base of the cup of the fitting. Using a circular motion apply heat evenly all around the fitting (at its base). When flux begins to show signs of bubbling apply appropriate wire solder at top of fitting cup. If joint is sufficiently heated solder will become liquidious and run into the joint. Apply only enough heat to melt soldering compound being used. When solder becomes liquidious remove heat from joint. Allow joint to cool and solder to return to solidus state. Overheating will cause flux to burn inside joint. The carbon formed will prevent solder from filling that area. If several of these "areas" join together, not only will the joint be weak but it will also leak!
No
Sweat a female fitting on the copper or use a compression coupling between the two.
The same that is used above ground. Sweat fitting coupler. I would not use copper underground in an area that has winter.
Lead wipe a brass nipple into the lead pipe and then use a female adapter x PVC on the brass threads
There should be a nut around the chrome pipe holding it to the brass. Loosen the nut and pull the chrome pipe out.
Pipe joint compound or Teflon tape
In order to connect a chromed steel pipe to a copper pipe, you will need a brass fitting. These two pipes will not fit into each other otherwise.
Two pipe wrenches. One to hold the galvanized from turning and one to turn the brass fitting. Pull on one and push on the other and it should come out.
No
Certainly look up Flagg Flow T.P Fittings T.P thread-less copper fittings will FIT on schedule 40/80 /120 Brass pipe Ideally it should be brazed but soldering will hold domestic water pressures Also many solder fittings ARE CAST BRASS rather then wrought copper
Take either an SOS pad or a wire brush and rough up both the inside of the brass fitting and outside of copper pipe, put the copper pipe into the fitting and solder around it.
Either cut it out on the pipe with copper cutters or sweat it out with a plumbing torch.
It is probably referring to the type of fitting. A fitting that is soldered to a copper pipe. It is called sweating when you use solder and a torch to connect copper pipe together or attach fittings to copper pipe.
Brass and steel are compatible, Otherwise we could NOT use brass valves with steel piping.
Sweat a female fitting on the copper or use a compression coupling between the two.
Did you put the ferrule on, the little brass ring?
It depends on the size of PVC. For smaller PVC you can buy fittings that glue onto the PVC and allow a thread x barb fitting to be installed. For larger pipe you should get a brass compression fitting that clamps down on the PVC and adapts to a thread x barb fitting.