Yes you can just replace the seal they sell a kit some are for each injector other kits are for all injectors these kits are fairly cheap so this is the option i would take.
yes, your local parts store should have or be able to order just the o-rings.
To replace fuel injectors you will nedd to unplug them individually and remove the fuel rail. the fuel rail is held down by 4 bolts- teo on each bank. you only have to remove the two bolts on the bank that you are replacing. if you are replacing injectors on cyl 1, 2 , 3 (back side) you will have to take the upper intake loose and move it for access. if you are replacing cyl 4, 5, 6 you can just take the bolts out of the fuel rail, pull it up, unplug injector and remove it. all that holds it in is orings on the top and bottom. just make sure you lube the orings on the new injectors and snap them in. this has been for the 12 valve. replaacing them on a 24 valve engine is about the same except the upper intake will have to come off for both banks
ok on the pipe has two orings one goes into the water pimp in male side and one goes in flanged side but to replace flanged side you have to remove waterpump and housing and the male end will have it right there the female end you have to take off the upper and lower intake manifold and outlet pipe to reinstall
if you loose pressure in system, you obviously have a leak. you need to find the fuel leak. make sure fuel filter is seated and sealing correctly,then examine all fuel lines from tank to pump, pump to injectors and pump to tank return line. if you have ever used ether to start the diesel, the ether ruins o rings in the fuel lines.the orings now being made of some inferior material
The pcv valve is located under the intake manifold, i just did mine and it took me three hours, first remove the air intake from the throttle body than unplug the fuel injectors and unscrewed the two bolts that hold the fuel rail and move it to the left side of the car "it required alot of pulling and wiggling to get the injectors out of the holes and make sure all the Orings seals come with it also use a ligth coat of motor oil on the Orings seal when puttin' back now remove the intake with a 1/4 inch socket"size 10" remember to remove the 4 top bolt out completely and the 3 bottom ones just loose them out and the bottom far right is a bitch to get to, now you are almost there ! jack up the car and make sure you use a jack stand to secure it before you go under it to remove the last bolt that support the intake " for that you need an 18 inches long extention and a size 12 socket and remove the intake out of your way and PVC is right there you will need a 1/4 inch size 10 socket to get the bolts out specially the right one you may have to look at the new one so you have an idea on the position on the right bolt where is it at.
You can change the filter in about twenty minutes to a half hour. Do this by removing the passenger side inner fender skirt and going in from there with a large filter wrench. Cut a gallon milk container in half and use it underneath as cacth can for the fuel that will be released from the filter. Remove the plug from the bottom first to drain and remove filter. Replace filter and sensor in bottom with the new orings provided with filter. Once installed pump the primer on top as found in owners manual. Be patient pumping, it can take a few minutes. Reinstall wheel well and your done. You will get messy, trust me.
it's plugged into the fuel rail on the back side. If this is a SC coupe, find the PCV valve housing. Look just to the right of it and down beside the housing. You'll see the top of the regulator and it looks like a vacuuum diaphragm. There will be a vacuum line that runs from it to the vacuum block. You can change it yourself but it's a very tight fit and requires a pair if snap-ring pliers to remove the snap-ring holding it onto the fuel rail. One the ring is removed, just pull the regulator straight out. Remember to replace all Orings and seals with new ones.
diagnose orings on airbags and the bags/pump with a manual everyone should have a shop manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual(wiring diagrams and more detailed info) available in the reference section for FREE....make copies of the right sections, and fix it like a PRO!! good luck Dave :)
No there is not.This truck engine came with a plastic washer on the oil pan drain plug.Go to advance auto parts,auto zone,napa for a package of new orings or washers as they may be labeled near the oil filters in most stores.I use plastic for mine and hand tighten with no issues after 22 years of ownership.
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