I wouldn't. I would try to get the first one to cure somehow, possibly by warming that area.
Yes.you can paint over epoxy pool paint with epoxy. Make sure the surface is degreased first.
Normally you shouldn't paint below 50 degrees, but with epoxy its more 'thick' and usually takes longer to fully cure/dry so it should be good till 40 degrees or so.
Etching only benefits bare concrete floors. If you want to ensure that your new coating will adhere to your old coating, blend enough of the epoxy to cover a single square foot section, let it cure for a week, then check the adhesion by scoring a cross-hatch design in the new coating, put some duct tape across the scored area, then quickly pull up the tape. If the epoxy comes up, then you will have to remove the old coating prior to recoating the floor.
No, epoxy paints are a two-component system that undergo a chemical reaction between the two parts to create a film. You mix part a and part b, allow them to react and then they will cure to a hardened film. Marine enamel is a typically durable, high solids urethane enamel designed for durability. This paint undergoes a reaction with oxygen in the air to create he hardened paint film. 2-part epoxies are generally more durable than marine enamels and typically far more expensive, but as with all products there is a wide range of quality levels available at differing price points.
I am guessing this is on the floor. This is probably a two component carbon bond coating. This means it is chemical resistant to even ketones. To recoat, you must use another epoxy or urethane mixture. To prepare the surface, it must be wet sanded with at least 220 grit water paper. After a good sanding, the surface must be cleaned with some sorta tack cloth. If you use a waxed based tack, do not press hard. This will cause transfere of the bees wax to the surface and cause poor adhesion. Anyway, get the surface clean as possible. Make sure the humidity is below 50% before coating the area. If you try to coat with humidity aboue 50%, you may get bubbles in your coating. They are caused by the coating trying to cure quicker than the moisture can escape. I hope you can use this information.
Read the paint MFG recommendations for full cure, or 48hrs.
Normally you shouldn't paint below 50 degrees, but with epoxy its more 'thick' and usually takes longer to fully cure/dry so it should be good till 40 degrees or so.
The mould temperature of epoxy resin is very much dependant on the type of epoxy.. some resins cure at ambient temperature, some have to be cured at temperatures up to 180ºC/350F. This should be on the product documentation. Generally, the higher the cure temperature, the higher service temperature is allowed.
"2K paint is an epoxy type paint consisting of the base plus a catalyst to start the chemical reaction that the paint needs to cure"This answer above is wrong on 2 major points! It should be removed! A 2K paint is NOT necessarily an epoxy but it could be. In addition, a catalyst is NOT a required component of a 2K paint. Even if the 2K paint is an Epoxy chemistry the curing component (usually called Part B) is called a Hardener or an Activator but is not a catalyst. A catalyst is a separate component and is only a chemical agent that can be added to speed up an existing reaction (a catalyst is not changed or consumed).The Answer:A 2K paint is a 2 Component polymer (resinous) material where the 2 different components must be mixed together for the combined mixture to achieve a cure. When mixed properly in the designed ratio the mixture will achieve the designed cured performance characteristics. It is important to note that off ratio materials may develop hardness but not necessarily the designed long term performance characteristics.The chemistry of the mix can be many different things including epoxy, urethane, polyaspartic, polyurea, or a host of other polymers. The 2 parts are usually referred to as Part A and Part B. Since there are so many manufacturers and chemistries it is difficult to generalize about the names for the Part A or Part B such as Resin, Hardener, Polyol, Iso, Activator, etc. While most epoxy manufacturers call the Part B the Hardener it is not always the case. In addition, it is also prudent to point out that a Catalyst is not the same thing as a Hardener, Activator, or other curing nomenclature. A catalyst is a material that can be added to a mixture to speed up an existing reaction.2K paints should not be confused with 2-Stage paints. A 2-Stage paint is is really 2 different paints that need to be used in conjunction with each other, such as a basecoat that requires a clear coat. This nomenclature (2-Stage) is used heavily in the automotive paint market.
Etching only benefits bare concrete floors. If you want to ensure that your new coating will adhere to your old coating, blend enough of the epoxy to cover a single square foot section, let it cure for a week, then check the adhesion by scoring a cross-hatch design in the new coating, put some duct tape across the scored area, then quickly pull up the tape. If the epoxy comes up, then you will have to remove the old coating prior to recoating the floor.
They mixed berries and mud and paint
No, epoxy paints are a two-component system that undergo a chemical reaction between the two parts to create a film. You mix part a and part b, allow them to react and then they will cure to a hardened film. Marine enamel is a typically durable, high solids urethane enamel designed for durability. This paint undergoes a reaction with oxygen in the air to create he hardened paint film. 2-part epoxies are generally more durable than marine enamels and typically far more expensive, but as with all products there is a wide range of quality levels available at differing price points.
I am guessing this is on the floor. This is probably a two component carbon bond coating. This means it is chemical resistant to even ketones. To recoat, you must use another epoxy or urethane mixture. To prepare the surface, it must be wet sanded with at least 220 grit water paper. After a good sanding, the surface must be cleaned with some sorta tack cloth. If you use a waxed based tack, do not press hard. This will cause transfere of the bees wax to the surface and cause poor adhesion. Anyway, get the surface clean as possible. Make sure the humidity is below 50% before coating the area. If you try to coat with humidity aboue 50%, you may get bubbles in your coating. They are caused by the coating trying to cure quicker than the moisture can escape. I hope you can use this information.
No, if the paint is force dried it will not cure correctly and will have adhesion and color issues.
In order to repair a crack in a plastic playground slide, on should obtain a certain amount of superglue, tape, and paint. The superglue can be used to fill in the crack with a solidifying substance, and the tape can cover it. The paint makes it look like new.
for jb weld to be properly effective, you need to allow it to cure for 15 hours
Read the paint MFG recommendations for full cure, or 48hrs.
You can wash it right away after the paint is dry, but it is recommended you allow the paint to cure. Depending on the type of paint used, two to three weeks is not unusual.