Epoxy primer has to go over a bare surface otherwise it can act as a stripper, causing the base coat, along with the newly applied epoxy to delaminate or lift from the surface.
I like primer epoxy because it dries hard. But that's just me. It really depends on what your doing with it.
Almost any kind, including epoxy enamel.
You paint it with epoxy primer.
Only if the water based paint is a primer. If not,then paint a primer first.
I wouldn't, it will not stick well.
If you mix a bit of epoxy with the plaster and work quickly you will have a greater chance of it lasting.
It is always a good idea to sand between coats. If the primer is clean then it probably will suffice.
Yes. With either an oil based paint over a high adhesion primer, like XIM, a single part epoxy or a multi-part epoxy.
carbon fiber is assembled of the layers of fiber and laminated (buttered) with EPOXY resin epoxy primer reacts with the resin as they are the same chemical base. the epoxy in the CF is re-activated (kinda) and swells on the immediate surface where the trapped chemicals from the incompleted outgassing during lamination has been laying in wait for somthing to "soften" the coffin they have been trapped in. think how epoxy is typically applied to 2 surfaces..allowed to tack/dry.. then the 2 surfaces are mated together (laminate counter tops, carpet on speaker boxes etc). your solvent rich, epoxy primer breathed life back into the old surface.
Most paints will adhere well to epoxy primer. Generally , 2 part urethanes are used. Most epoxy primers are also 2-part. There are also single -pack epoxy primers available which offer excellent adhesion and corrosion protection for bare metal, and are also very solvent resistant, are sandable and offer good adhesion for any topcoat, including 2-part urethane.
On raw fibreglass, epoxy primer is necessary. On gelcoat, polyurathane paint sticks well, provided the surface is well sanded and cleaned with acetone, but pinholes and cratering can be a problem, so where a high standard is required, priming the gelcoat with epoxy is recommended.
Yes, unless the enamel paint is an epoxy. If the enamel is oil or water based paint, then there is no problem going over a latex primer.
My mobile home park is going through this right now, so I will give you what I have learned. A word of caution, I am still trying to find an unbiased answer myself all of my pros/cons come from the fiberglass or plaster contractors so of course they believe their product is better. From our pool maintenance company (the one unbiased answer I have) They recommend using fiberglass on our Spa to reduce the chance of black algae, and plaster on the pool for the ease of maintenance. >>Pro's for plaster. Underwater epoxy repairs can be made without draining the pool. More resilient than the Gel-Coat of the fiberglass. More readily available contractors. >>Pro's for fiberglass. Resists Black Algae. Resists rust stains from behind. Lasts longer than plaster. ---Con's for plaster. If Black Algae starts its roots go through the pourous plaster and embed in the gunite, and will always return. Plaster doesn't bond well to old plaster. ---Con's for fiberglass. Fiberglass companies go out of business because their products fail in a few years. Fiberglass contractors are hard to find. The only way to repair fiberglass is to drain the pool and apply a new Gel-Coat over the entire surface. Fiberglass is not waterproof at all, only the Gel-Coat is. A Plaster contractor said... "I have heard that the fiberglass fails in like 5 years and then the company goes out of business." A Fiberglass contractor said... "I have heard of huge sections of the plaster falling off, because the old layer of plaster was not completely removed and when it came off it took the new plaster with it, in court the contractor's stance was that their coat held on fine and that it was not their fault since their work was still sticking to the old plaster." I wish a neurtral party like a university would do a study on this. -signed Just as lost in the sauce as the original poster.
epoxy I would suggest not using paint and consider using an exposed aggregate plaster. The plaster is much more durable and longer lasting.
You would need to apply a high adhesion primer, such as XIM or a two part epoxy primer, which will adhere to the ceramic surface, prior to applying the chalkboard paint.
I think that you would need to do a layer of primer, then a layer of epoxy might be best.Epoxy is what's recommended for garage floors, I think it would work on your parking symbols. For more information on the joys of epoxy:http://www.housepaintingtutorials.com/epoxy-garage-floor-covering.html
Check the instructions or the technical data sheet for the product that you are using. Some water-based epoxies require a primer when refinishing a previously coated surface.
Super Loc is an epoxy primer produced by Dunn-Edwards Paints. The product contains several epoxy and polyamine resins that readily adhere to various materials, such as bricks or poured concrete.
Normally you shouldn't paint below 50 degrees, but with epoxy its more 'thick' and usually takes longer to fully cure/dry so it should be good till 40 degrees or so.
Yes, it is always necessary when carrying out repairs . The area surrounding the repair is sanded , and the primer patch extends outside the repair onto this "feathered" area. Both epoxy and urethane based primers are suitable.
First you have to determine if is in fact a painted pool. If it is a plaster pool then usually there is no paint unless it was painted because of age and damaged plaster. You most likely do not want to paint a plaster pool - have it acid washed to clean plaster. Not sure how to determine what type paint. You would have to have the paint chips anaylized to determine if it is a chlorinated base paint or epoxy paint. Ken
Yes, but the method for making sure the material separates from the plaster mould is quite involved. Some mould makers use shellac, followed by a soap treatment. There are several steps to the process, and you will probably have to destroy the mould as you break the positive out. For detailed steps on how to do this, research "plaster waste moulds"
ABS Yellow glue by Oatey's is by far the best cement for ABS. I have tried many things and using epoxy is not as good as a solvent bond, which is literally melting the components together.
Heat powdered gypsum to 150 degrees Celcius to form 2CaSO4.H2O (Calcium Sulfate Hemihydrate) which is plaster of paris. There are also plenty of substitutes depending on what it is being used for such as latex, epoxy, Sculpey, and much more.