nope....stator as in the alt? dont do it. this was a test before the computer days... you will surge/ zap the comp. or did you mean starter? either way the answer is no
Try removing the battery cables and cleaning both terminals as well as the cable connectors. Try to test the electrical continuity of the cables, one may be broken inside it's insulation, making it invisible. Have the battery itself tested, it is not uncommon for a battery (especially an older one) to just quit.
The symptom of a bad battery or cable is the starter is unable to get the power to start the engine. You can use a digital multimeter to check to see if it is the cables or test the battery for the definite cause.
Put the red test lead on the positive and the black test lead on the negative post of the battery and see the result.
To change the throttle and idler cables on your 1990 Heritage Softail, start by disconnecting the battery and removing the seat for better access. Next, remove the old cables by loosening the adjusters and disconnecting them from the throttle grip and carburetor. Install the new cables by reversing the process, ensuring they are routed properly and adjusted for smooth operation. Finally, reconnect the battery, test the throttle movement, and ensure everything is functioning correctly before replacing the seat.
Test battery with a load tester. If battery passes you have a problem with connections or cables.
Look at it. If the wire is corroded and/or the insulation is bulging, replace the cable.
Try checking the battery cables and battery clamps to make sure you are getting a good connection to the starter. Do a voltage drop test to check the cables. You can find instructions for a drop test online.
Bad connectins at battery? Clean connections. Possible loose battery cables on starter or engine block? Clean and tighten cables. If no help, possible bad battery cable/cables. Test cables and replace as necessary. Depending on what type of car, also investigate starter cylinoid. Hope that helps.
To test a Piaggio Typhoon 50 scooter stator, first, ensure the scooter is turned off and the battery is disconnected. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the stator's coils by checking the ohm readings between the various terminals; refer to the service manual for the specific values. Additionally, check for any shorts by testing the coils against the stator's ground. If the readings are outside the specified range or show continuity where there shouldn't be, the stator may need to be replaced.
the easiest way to check if the stator is gone is by taking a volt meter (dc) hook to the battery it should show at least 12.7 volts fully charged. start bike with meter still hooked volts should go up when you give it throttle. up to about 14.5 max. if meter volts don't change your stator is shot if it jumps to around 18-19 volts your regulator is shot. this is the quick way to check your charging system To test your stator, unplug the regulator from the socket. With a meter set on AC above 100 volts, insert the probes into the stator socket. Start the bike. When you give the bike throttle you should see AC current about 16 to 20 volts per 1000 RPM. You should see about 32 to 40 volts @ 2000rpm. Anything below that, and your stator is faulty. To test for a bad regulator, unplug the regulator from the stator. With a test light, make sure you connect the ground well on the test light and touch each pin on the regulator. If the test light lights at all, your regulator is bad. If you test from the battery terminals, you are checking the whole system. With the meter switched to DC above 20 volts, apply the positive and negative probes to the positive and negative probes on the battery with the battery cables attached. Have a friend start the bike and slowly apply throttle. At idle you should have at least 13 volts. This output should increase as you rev the bike up to about 14.7 volts. It should never exceed 14.7 volts. If the voltage does not rise with throttle, your regulator or stator could be bad which is why you want to perform the test I listed, as listed. If the voltage rises above 14.7 volts the regulator is definitely at fault. The regulators on these bikes are notorious for going bad. The regulator and rectifier circuit are housed in the same unit.
check for stator AC output first, check specs for your year, that has to work properly under load to go any further, then check for 12.75-13.50 VDC at the battery with it running, if it tests OK at the stator plug and shows battery voltage dropping instead of climbing at fast idle, suspect the rectifier/regulator It is impossible to test the rectifier, but it is built into the regulator/rectifier and you can test the regulator. Buy a manual!
poor battery connection or battery itself high resistance in battery cables would be some things to check plus beanch test starter itself