If the amp is big enough, it can fry the regulator.
Generally speaking, the voltage regulator is part of the alternator itself. It's usually common practice to just get a new or rebuilt alternator if you suspect the regulator is failing.
This really depends on the media it controls, keep the media clean and within the pressure limits of the regulator. making sure the media is compatible with the regulator is also important.
Left end (drivers side) of the rail the injectors are mounted in. They are notorious for failing.
could be that the regulator in the alternate is failing and causing power surges in the electronics and the fuses are blowing to prevent damage to the device and vehicles wiring.
It means either the alternator or the voltage regulator is failing, assuming your electronic instrument cluster isn't going bad.
i assume you are saying the window does not go up or down correclty but you can still hear the motor working when pressing the window switch, that is common problem. faulty window regulator, somewhat complex to replace, recommend taking to dealer and having it replaced, probably cost around 300$, good luck. I replaced a rear regulator on my 2000 328i and it wasn't that difficult. The regulator was about $65. Check the motor seal, as sometimes the cable will tear it up when it jumps the track. Really no excuse for a window regulator failing in so new a car. I only had 35k on mine and rarely used the rear windows. Chilton publishes a manual for the 3-series for about $20 if you need the help.
like most houses, vehicles have a regulator that controls the amount of power going to certain things, there is probably way too much power going to that fuse. Sounds like the output triode pack in the alternator is failing, causing the regulator to overvolt the field. The field circuit is generally where the system gets it's info for the charge light or ammeter. If the charging output is low, the regulator sends more power to the field to boost the output of the alternator. If the output never reaches an adequate level the field circuit can be pushed to a point where it could damage the instrumentation and the fuse blows to protect the sensitive parts of the system. Have your alternator checked. BTW, houses don't have regulators. The power company regulates the voltage in the grid, your electric meter mesures how much power flows into your house and the fuses or circuit breakers in your service panel protect the individual circuits in your house.
I have a feista zetec and both of my windows have had problems if its electric then it could be its come off the rollers or failing that the window regulator could not be working properly there not to expansive my passenger side both of my pins come out so the window so the glass just fell into the door fram but now my drivers side has gone and its the regulator but they do repair kits ranging from anything from 18 to 100 pounds depending if you want high quality ... If you know what your doing you can do it at home with a socket set and a few screw drivers hope this helps
Could be anything from a damaged plug wire to a clogged fuel filter or a failing fuel pump. Could also be the temperature regulator module, which would show it's ugly face only after the engine temp starts to rise.
- If energy input is constant, then (E x I) is constant. - If 'E' is constant, then 'I' must also be constant. - Your ammeter must be failing.
Fuel filters require periodic replacement. It could be partially clogged. If you are not getting enough fuel to the injectors, when you floor it, it will cut out. While at idle it may run fine. There is a vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator that boosts fuel pressure when vacuum is low (heavy throttle). It could be rotted or disconnected. The regulator diaphragm could be leaking. The pump could be failing. The screen in the tank could be clogged. Fuel supply line could be ruptured (you'd smell gas).
Assuming the bulbs are good, the turn signal problem could be a blown fuse or a bad flasher relay. The hesitation when starting could be incorrect fuel pressure due to a failing fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator.