A short in the tail light circuit. Brake and turn are on another circuit. Dash light power is fed from the tail light fuse to the dimmer switch and on to the dash lights. Look for a short in the tail light wiring circuit. Also check the license plate light for a short as it is on the tail light circuit also. Had a car with blown fuse, traced the circuit for tail lights and found nothing. Jumped the fuse and burned out the wiring to the tail lights. Come to find out, the short was in the license plate light.
Also a bad headlight switch can cause this. Both tail light circuit and headlight circuit go through the switch. Contacts for the tail lights may be bad (defective switch common).
The duration of A Tight Corner is 2940.0 seconds.
The duration of Black Tight Killers is 1.43 hours.
A Tight Fix - 1907 was released on: USA: December 1907
Tight - 2011 Cowgirls 1-6 was released on: USA: 1 May 2011
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It is a good possiblity the brake hose feeding that wheel is at fault.
I had this problem and it was a short in one of the back rear brake lights. One of the bulbs was not screwed in correctly and it was causing the brake light to stay on when the headligst are on. We removed all bulbs and inserted them again, making sure they were tight. This fixed our issue with a dodge 2003 durango.
It is because the switch on brake pedal has been moved. It must be pushed by the pedal all the time, and when you push the brake pedal, the button switch comes out, and then you should turn your lights on. This switch is tight by double nut next to the pedal, so disconnect it, release the tightened nut, or verify that it is tight, make sure it is pushed by the pedal every time this one is up, make a turn if needed to make tight again.
Your emergency brake is to tight on the back brakes, which is not allowing the ABS to work properly. that's why both lights are on. Good Luck
Tight is tight... get it snug, roll with it.
there is a brake light switch located at the top/back of the brake arm....sometimes they stick or even break and the spring comes out. ...can pick one up at any parts store...only 2 screws hold it on ...but it is a tight fit under the dash ...bring a flashlight
Electronic brake. Like the hand brake which has a physical cable that you pull tight, the e-brake locks the rear wheels.
check the master cylinder.
They are shaped to fit tight against back of the pad.
It sounds as if the contact switch that controls the brake lights may be faulty or out of adjustment. Under the dash, look to where the brake pedal lever is suspended and you should see an electrical switch with a "plunger" that is ALMOST in contact with the pedal lever. This is the switch that senses when the brake pedal has been applied and activates the brake lights. It is, necessarily, a 'tight' adjustment. If it has slipped out of adjustment it may be sensing that the brakes are always 'on.' If not, then the switch may be worn out and needs to be replaced. The actual problem is your 3rd brake light. I had the same problem, my brake lights stayed on when it was out of Park. We replaced the brake light switch as recommended. Being very frustrated with the problem, I started to troubleshoot. We took off the 3rd brake unit and not only were the lights burned out, but the unit had started to melt. I went to a Ford Dealership and picked up the complete unit for just around $40.00. Now the problem has been solved. I hope this helps others.
I think the #1 brake pressure switch is faulty. Located under dash, top left of switch manifold. Tight spot, need deep 1 1/16 or 27mm deep thin wall socket.
If the armrest on a 1992 Suburban is in the locked position and will not unlock, check for a foreign object that might be stuck in the hinge. Sometimes the armrest can lock if the bolt holding it on is too tight.