Hook a 12 volt light to a 24 volt system and the light will burn out in seconds. You need a step-down voltage converter to do this.
A 1970 ford has a external regulator It's probably possible to adjust one by ajusting the contact points inside the regulator and I'm assuming it has a older style regulator but I don't think it will do much good. Replace the regulator. Disconnect the battery hook up the regulator hook battery up and boom it's polarized.
Here is the proper hookup Voltage regulator teminal (I) goes to key switch Acc or Coil Risistor Voltage regulator teminal (A) goes to Alternator Battery Connection Voltage regulator teminal (S) goes to Alternator Stator Connection Voltage regulator teminal (F) goes to Alternator Field Connection Below is Incorrect. Hope this Helps. Ok this is the info that I have so far: (12VDC SYSTEM NEG GROUND) There should be multiple letters on the voltage regulator itself. The F goes onto the field post on the positive side of the alternator. The I goes to a fused + 12vdc (fuse panel) The A ? The S ? I think this goes to the switched "on" ignition point of the key. Any other valuable hints? F terminal on the regulator connects to the field connection on the alt. S terminal on regulator connects to the stator connection on alt. A terminal on regulator connects to the battery +( Plus) or positive terminal. (senses voltage of battery) I terminal on the regulator connects to the ignition switch. (turns regulator off & on) Caution do not connect I to spark coil +(positive) terminal,: may cause engine not to turn off.
To get to an internal voltage regulator first disconnect the battery ground ( negative cable ) then remove the alternator. Make sure you mark the cables on the alternator so you can put them back exactly where they are supposed to go. The voltage regulator is inside the alternator and you will have to take it apart. I'm not sure how the regulator is mounted in your alternator, it might have small studs with nuts on them, or small screws or bolts, or it may be soldered in. In the latter case you will have to cut out the voltage regulator and solder in the new one. If you are going to take out the alternator anyway you should probably take it to a parts store where they will test it for free and tell you if you need a whole new alternator or just the voltage regulator.
Voltage regulators are often built into the alternators now, this wasn't always the case. Older vehicles had separate voltage regulators mounted on firewalls or the side of the engine compartment, wired in between from the alternator to the battery. The positive lead now goes directly to the battery from the alternator/regulator.
Typical on-hook voltage is 48 volts DC, off-hook voltage 12 to 16 volts DC and ringing voltage 90 volts AC at 20 hertz. These voltages vary, depending on the actual standards implemented by the telephone system you are using, and also how far away you are from the telephone company's exchange or central office.
heavens no, you want to run a separate line to the fuse box for the pump through a relay.
Sandy Hook Light was created in 1764.
NO! where does the power (voltage and current) come from if the battery is flat/dead?
How do you hook up a light to an electrical outlet
A "Dynamo" is a DC charger; these will overcharge any battery there is and requires a regulator circuit, they will produce voltage proportional to their rotation. Simply hook it to the battery (watch your positive and negative) and crank the generator / dynamo.
Most definitely! More people are killed by 120 volts that any other voltage.
It is important for solar battery charger output voltage to match voltage of battery system being charged. Voltage is additive in series circuits, therefore 3 12VDC solar battery chargers connected in series would provide correct output to charge a 36VDC system.