You don't mention the mileage but if you're in the 80,000 range, more than likely it's the bag and they can't be manually filled. If left like that the compressor will probably be the next to die because it will be always trying to fill the bags and they are in the price range of $160.00 plus the labor. Could possibly be a solenoid but first put some soapy water all over the bags and see if you have a bubble thing going on then you will know.
Bad solenoid, leaking bags
You can use a shop air compressor to do this. It requires some jury rigging, but I did this. You must power the solenoid valve that controls the spring, which means making a connector (a pain) or getting one from the junk yard. Then insert the pastic tubing into a suitably sized rubber hose and attach it to a hand valve and your compressor hose. Power the solenoid and open the air valve. I found 80 PSI will raise the car.
The Mark 8 does not have a check-valve in the air suspension system. Each air spring has a solenoid valve, which controls fill and vent of the spring. There is a fifth in the suspension compressor itself, which controls venting the system. I discovered that the seat for vent valve was corroded in my compressor, which would then leak when the system was trying to fill. This resulted in the compressor running, but the car lowering. I was able to clean the seat up for a temporary repair, but ultimately replaced the compressor.
Did you put the small solenoid wire on the correct small terminal?
I believe that kicks on when the AC is turned on to raise the idle to compensate for the AC compressor load.
On the 2.4 z24 it is on the AC compressor mounting bolt.
No such thing. Air goes in and out to the bags thru the same tube, exits at the compressor. Each bag has its own solenoid valve so the system tubing is unpressurized when the compressor is off. If you want to drop the entire car, you'll need a diagnostic scanner with the suspension functions. If you need to deflate an individual bag, disconnect the electrical connector to its solenoid valve, disconnect the air tubing by pulling on the round collar where it enters the valve, remove the silver retaining clip, twist a quarter of a turn to first stop and pull down. Valve can then be removed by twisting another quarter of a turn and pulling out.
Not to bash on the last answer, but, the starter solenoid probably isn't at fault here. If it will start with the screwdriver then the starter solenoid is functioning. It either does or it doesnt. The answer lies in circuitry back from the solenoid to the ignition switch. You could have a bad ignition switch or neutral/safety switch.AnswerDefective starter solenoid.
There is one solenoid for each air boot. they are located at the top of the air boot, an electrical connector goes to each solenoid.
Remove inner boot trim,locate solenoid pin,and pull back.
vacuum leak, check hoses, purge solenoid valve, evap.
The only way to manually deflate that system. Leave the car running. Raise the end that you want to lower to where the vehicle is just above level. This will make the height sensor tell the control module that the end of the vehicle you raised is too high. The control module will open the solenoids in the struts, and open the solenoid at the compressor. Once the air is successfully purged. About 2 minutes. You can then shut the vehicle off. Turn the air ride switch off. Lower the vehicle.
Jump the wires on the starter solenoid - Jumper wire connected the large cable running to the starter and the smaller "trigger" wire The solenoid in most vehicles today is located ON the starter. If you attempt the aforementioned answer, BE CAREFUL.
Not sure there is a way to reset. It may be a lock solenoid or a bad wire
It is a device that cycles the compressor depending on the line pressure coming out of the evaporator. Some vehicles have the switch located over on the high "condenser" side of the system.
Vehicle could have a solenoid type switch to increase idle to compensate for load on engine caused by A/C compressor
The compressor should be under the container for the windshield wash. Drivers side. If all is the same as the '96. The rest of the job is just to remove and replace. But, on the other hand, if you have air ride, there could be more problems with the system. With the cost of the compressor, plus the solenoid and the bags, just might want to think of doing a mod. There is a kit available to remove the air bags and put coil springs in place. This would cost around $ 200.00 for the parts, a mere fraction of the cost to repair the air suspension. If interested, send me a note on my message board.
by compressor i assume you mean the air conditioning compressor. the simple answer is NO. the compressor on all vehicles has a clutch which is activated by a solenoid that draws it in. that solenoid does not receive power until the engine and computer have run long enough to stabilize operations...generally 3-5 seconds. now on older vehicles (1950-1979) i am not 100% on their operations. in any case they won't operate until the voltage regulator stabilizes the power. it is not a mechanical engagement. therefore, again, no it will absolutely not blow your compressor. even if it some how were to be stuck engaged and you started your engine unless there is a malfunction in the system it would still be just fine. it is a sealed system containing its own oil. failure by start-up is not possible.
which solenoid, starter solenoid or a/c vac solenoid ?
Each wheel's suspension arm has an air spring. There are no metal springs on the Mark VIII. The front air springs are integral with the shock absorber. The rear suspension uses an air bag on each control arm. There is also a height sensor on each control arm with the air spring. The height sensor measures the ride height at that corner. The sensors are monitored by the control module mounted on the right side cowl. Each air spring also has a solenoid valve. An air compressor is mounted under the hood to supply air for the system. The compressor module also includes a filter/drier and the vent solenoid. When a low condition is sensed, the air compressor starts and the solenoid valves at the springs that are low open. This adds air to the springs causing them to raise the car. When level trim is reached, the solenoid valves close and the compressor shuts down. A high condition triggers the solenoid valves at the high springs to open and also the vent solenoid. Air exits the system lowering the car. Reaching trim closes the solenoid valves. The system has 30 second averaging so that it does not respond to normal vehicle motions. The system also won't vent when a load is removed from the car and a door is open, to avoid catching the door on a curb when the body lowers. The system also does not vent for the first 30 seconds after the ignition is turned on. After turning the ignition off, the system remains powered up for one hour and will level the body during that time unless a door is open. The system can be disabled by a switch mounted in the trunk. The system must be disabled whenever the car is raised on a hoist or jack. It's a pretty simple and robust system. The only negative is that the front spring/shock assemblies are expensive. Best regards, Frank C
The solenoid is on the starter.
The tcc solenoid is part of the od solenoid assembly.
The starter solenoid is on the starter.The starter solenoid is on the starter.
On my 95 it is located in the transmission under the valve body cover on the drivers side of the transmission. It is the solenoid on the bottom left hand side of the valve body. I had to take the suspension and frame support off and lower the transmission before I could remove to valve body cover. A retainer clip holds the TCC solenoid in place.