Generally, when you unhook the battery for a few minutes you will clear the codes but if the problem that caused the code has not been fixed it will reset the light again. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights
It all depends on the bearings that you need to replace! Get some quotes! If it is bearings inside the engine, then the mechanic you go to is going to have pull the engine anyways, so if there are no other problem with your engine but some bearings then i would just have the bearing replaced, but if you have other problems due to the bearings going out, then i would replace the engine. Hope i helped
go check your gas cap and make sure it is on tight. Anytime you get a check engine light on after fueling, this normally means you didn't get the gas cap on. Make sure you click it the required number of times if that is how yours works. Also, if you leave the engine running while filling up you are going to get a service engine soon light on. Disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for a couple hours to clear the computer, then hook the battery back up and the service engine light will be off. If it comes back on take it into Auto Zone, they will read the trouble code for free and tell you what triggered it.
This would be an electrical issue, most likely it can be resolved by going to a mechanic and they can reset the component. It's just because the airbag was tampered with to some extent because of the service. Generally it can be as easy as changing a fuse. The airbag light stays on when there is a problem. Something may be unhooked or misassembled in the column if this happened after someone was working on it. The mechanic should repair the problem if he caused it.
It can mean several hundred (yes!) different things, some very problematic, others trivial. It does mean that some mechanic somewhere is going to make a few bucks, because you are going to have to take your car there. The mechanic will hook up a scanner to read the problem code of your car's computer, which will say in what area the problem is. Then the mechanic may be able to diagnose the problem. Serious: it could be that your car has low oil pressure, which can cause major problems, or serious transmission problems. Trivial: Recently my car had a check engine light, mechanic found "EVAP" code suggesting something wrong with the fuel system. Yeah, the gas cap was a little loose (I never turn it until it clicks). Tightening cap resolved problem, but mechanic still had to undo the code. Anyway, the carmakers/mechanics have us by the short hairs. If you choose to cover the light with electrical tape you risk major damage to the car.
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