Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an in-depth needed understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights
Go to the fuse that is on the battery terminal, and remove it for about 20 seconds, then put it back in. This will reset the ECU which will rid you of the check engine light. If the problem that caused the light to come on is still present the code will be set in the ECU and the check engine light will be turned on again until the problem is corrected.
flick your key on and off 3 times really fast the gauge cluster will read codes starting with a p write down the codes and look them up also you can temporarily get rid of the check engine light by disconnecting the negative battery cable and turning your key a couples times with the battery still disconnected this will get rid of the light for about a day or so but the problem causing the check engine light will need to be fixed to get it to go away permanantly....
AnswerAutoZone will check it for free, give you the error codes that caused the light to come on and they will reset for you. However, you must fix the problem or the light will appear again. S/V40/70 older-1999 = Need to use the OBDII testern.S/V40/70 1999-newer = Putting the ignition key into position I, push in and hold the odometer reset button (use your left hand), move the ignition key to position II, when the service light begins to blink,let go of the odometer reset button. Confirm by turning your Volvo off then on again.* There are 2 lights on some Volvos, e.g. 2001 S40. One is the check engine light; the other is the "service light". I believe this solution is only for the "service light", not the "check engine" light. I did try it on our vehicle and it did not get rid of the "check engine" light and only the service light flashed.
See "Related Questions" below for information about the Windstar's Mass AirFlow (MAF) sensor.Resolve the problem and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will go off after a few drive-cycles.NOTE: Do NOT automatically replace the MAF until you know for sure it has failed.They get dirty and a thorough cleaning will work to resolve the problemThey're expensive - so check other options first
there are a couple of way to do this but the best way is to have the engine serviced by a professional. that being said if i couldn't afford to have it serviced i would unplugg the battery for about 15minutes maybe longer with all the power unplugged the vehicles computer will "forget the problem and your check engine light will go away temporarily . the other way to turn off the check engine light is to get OBD2 scanner and manualy remove the check engine light(its an option on the OBD2 scanner) but again this is inly temporary. the only true way to get rid of the check engine light is to have the problem fixed . okay so you turn off the check engine light and its all gravy but then about 50-1oo miles later the light comes back on ...that means that you didnt fix the problem and the light is back on. With an OBD2 scanner (about 125-250$$$) depending on how advanced you want it, check the Code(example=P0215) then go online and look the code up it will tell you exactly what that code means and if its a small part like an MAF censor then you can actually go buy it at AUUTOZZONE or whatever and do the job your self. find someone with a Scanner(OBD2) and scan your vehicle then most of your issues ill be gone if you can do the job yourself. FYI the PO215 code is not a MAF censor code that was just an example ...sorry oh and if you try to smog the vehicle with the code or check engine light erased but not fixed it wont pass smog it will come up as incomplete on the test and you will have to drive it another 75+ miles to get the light back on to figure out what is wrong with it.lol...been there done that and it made me look stupid for trying to cheat the system.lol
the check engine light could stay on because of other sensors. for example,the power steering sensor could be bad...this will cause the engine light to come on and other sensors could cause the engine light to come on. just get rid of the van. most sensors when they go bad cost anywhere from $200-$600 just because of the location of the sensor. manufacture put sensors in hard to reach places to keep you from replacing them,so that you will bring it in to dealer and pay over inflated repair cost.
First make sure your gas cap is on tight. If you start your car a couple times after that & the light does not go out. It is most likely an emission problem. or sensor or something of that nature. Note that most emmission warranties on most cars are good for about 7-8 years or 80,000 miles. If the light is FLASHING First check all your fluids, oil, trans. if automatic, anti freeze.On some cars even check the brake fluid. All of which should be checked on a regular basis any way. If all fluids are fine & the light is FLASHING, get your car to a trusted mechanic A.S.A.P.!!!!!!!!!!! Check for rust around your gas cap intake. use steel wool to get rid of the rust and improve the seal. This usually gets rid of the EVCAP code.
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