For most residential pools, this is a trick question. One adds acid to reduce pH and Total Alkalinity. However, as total dissolved solids(TDS) build, say past 2,000ppm, pH of saturation will go towards 6.0. One can measure TDS, or use an estimating rule on when to change water to reduce TDS. To calculate days between complete water change, calculate ( Pool volume in gallons/3)/(bathers per day). For example, you have fifteen swimmers per day. Your pool is about 10,000 gallons. Then (10000/3)/15 yields: 222 days between changes. In a commercial pool, say you may have 100 swimmers per day in 100,000 gallons. Then (100000/3)/1000 yields: 33 days between changes.
the pH can be raised by adding an alkaline chemical such as soda ash (which also raises total alkalinity quite a bit) or borax (which has only a slight effect on total alkalinity), or by aeration of the water to outgas CO2 (which will raise pH with no impact on total alkalinity). Soda ash actually has very little effect on Total Alkalinity. Baking soda is the chemical to use to raise T/A.
Add rain water this has very low alkalinity
Yes. Adding pH minus (Hydrochloric acid) will lower your alkalinity. You should get it down to the 100 range or so, and the aerate the water to raise the pH to acceptable levels again.
make sure chlorine is is at 1-3ppm, if pH is very low raise chlorine slightly higer than average. shock the pool after and run filter for over night. If pool still not stabilize then add PH high chemical.
pH and Alkalinity/Acidity are functions of each other. pH's above 7.0 are considered alkaline and pH's below 7.0 are considered acidic. So reducing the alkalinity will by it's very nature reduce the pH of the pool.
You would do better in contacting United Chemical in California. I don't have an answer for this one. Never heard of the problem before. Possibly very or extremely high amounts of iron or magnesium. k
With the use of a very small amount of soda ash. Maybe a quarter cup. To be safe use smaller amounts and check the pH frequently until you have stabilized the pH at a level that is satisfactory. A pH of 7.2 is not that far out of bounds if you do not have a heater. You might also want to check the total alkalinity. If it is on the high end of the scale or test I would do nothing to raise the pH. The low pH will buffer the high alkalinity.
Possibly. But have you checked the chemical levels 1st - chlor, pH, Total alkalinity? Are you running the filter/pump long enough? Run 24/7 until pool is very clear then cut back to about 8 to 10 hrs.
Replaster the pool and keep the water chemically balanced (PH, alkalinity level etc..) this will keep the plaster from pitting thus keeping it smooth for a longer life.
Adding 2 oz. of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) per 1000 gallons of water will raise the alkalinity 10 parts per million. Despite raising the alkalinity to the desired level in my vinyl-sided pool the pH was not adversely affected. Increasing the pH of the water without affecting the alkalinity is very easy, but there is a trick. With the pump motor on and water circulating, add the sodium bicarb. in the deep end of the pool and work your way around the perimeter. This will raise the pH with minimal effect on the alkalinity. Keep your pH around 7.6-7.8, not 7.2-7.4. Most "pool experts" tell you 7.2-7.4 but they are using an index that your local water company uses which obviously should not be used for pool. There's a big difference between a water treatment system and your pool. You can't treat them the same. The chart you need is in the link below.
it might not be to high of a ph but could be a very hot water in a cooler room that is how some pools r cloudy
In a pool with an alkaline pH level (7.0 to 14) you would use soda ash. If your pH level is acidic (6.0 to 6.9) when you add soda ash (sodium carbonate) to the pool the acidity of the water will convert the sodium carbonate to bicarbonate, which will have the effect of increasing the total alkalinity. There is no way around this reaction when your pH is below 7.0. Just make sure you maintain a pH level above 7.0. For swimmer comfort you should not have your pH below 7.4. Increasing the pH of the water without affecting the alkalinity is very easy, but there is a trick. With the pump motor on and water circulating, add the sodium bicarb. in the deep end of the pool and work your way around the perimeter. This will raise the pH with minimal effect on the alkalinity. Keep your pH around 7.6-7.8, not 7.2-7.4. Most "pool experts" tell you 7.2-7.4 but they are using an index that your local water company uses which obviously is not and should not be used for pool. There's a big difference between a water treatment system and your pool. You can't treat them the same.
On my 20,000 gallon pool, with very low pH and alkalinity. I started off with 4 lbs, then another 4lbs....finally up to 10 lbs before reaching a normal balance.
Alkalinity is basically an acid neutralizer. Without it your pH would drop very low and then you would have very acidic water. This is crucial in swimming pools because humans have a pH of 7.5 so that's why we want the pH 7.4-7.6 that way it is most comfortable to swim in. Hopefully this helps a little.
Lye ranks at around 13 or 14 on the pH scale which means it has a high alkalinity and it is a very strong base.
It keeps your pH from jumping around from day to day. It is regulated by adding common baking soda that can be acquired inexpensively in any warehouse type food store. I generally add 10 LB to my pool in the spring and another 10 LB if the PH starts to fall too low half way through the season. HatawaRead more: What_is_alkalinity_in_poolsThere are a lot of rumors, myths and simply put, untruths when it comesto understanding alkalinity and just how important it really is.A close cousin of pH, the level of alkalinity in the water is a measurementof all the carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxides and other alkaline substancesfound in the pool water.pH is alkaline dependent; that is, alkalinity is defined as the ability of thewater to resist changes in pH. Also known as the buffering capacity of thewater, alkalinity keeps the pH from "bouncing" all over the place.Low alkalinity is raised by the addition of a base (just like pH); sodiumbicarbonate is the most commonly used. High levels of alkalinity are loweredby the addition of an acid (again, just like pH).I recommend "pooling" the acid in a small area of low current for a greatereffect on alkalinity. That is, adding an acid will lower both pH and alkalinity.Walking the acid around the pool, in a highly distributed manner will typicallyhave a greater effect lowering the pH than the alkalinity.Pooling the acid has the opposite effect. A very importantcomponent of water balance, alkalinity should be maintained in the 80-120ppm range. Levels should be tested weekly.I hope this short message sheds some light on the relevance of alkalinity andwhy it's so important to properly manage it.Taking care of your alkalinity will help keep the other chems in 'check' and makeit much easier to manage the overall water chemistry of your swimming pool.www.fireyourpoolguy.com
== == * You have two things that contribute to your high use of acid. The walls of your plaster pool actually absorb some of the acid over time as the walls continue to cure. This is very common in new pools. You may see a reduction in the amount of acid after a few years. Also, the salt system you use has a high pH level which contributes to your heavy use of acid. == == * Though the previous post about new plaster pools absorbing acid for curing may be correct (I don't know about that), I do know that the pH also increases due to other factors as follows: 1) Since all pools use a carbonate buffering system that is out of equilibrium with CO2(g) in the atmosphere, they will all tend to increase in pH (if nothing else was done) as H2CO3 goes to CO2(g) and H2O (water). Total alkalinity does not change (decrease in CO3 equals decrease in 2H's back to water), though adding acid to restore pH will result in lower alkalinity so you'll also add sodium bicarbonate. If you do not have a pool cover and/or you have a waterfall that aerates the water, then you will increase the pH more quickly. 2) Use of a chlorine generator makes the water more basic (alkaline) as the formula for generation is Cl- + 2H20 --> H2(g) + HOCl + OH-. Every 1 ppm of chlorine added to your system results in an increase in pH of around 0.024 (assuming your pH is around 7.5, total alkalinity of 100, etc.) which isn't much, but if your chlorine demand (and production) is 1 ppm per day, then you'll have an increase in pH of 0.1 in 4 days. This effect was stated in the previous post: "the salt system you use has a high pH level." 3) Some (though not much) of the chlorine in your pool will get out-gassed via the following formula HOCl + Cl- --> Cl2(g) + OH- which has a similar effect as item #2 above in that a loss of 1 ppm results in a 0.024 pH increase. The only effects that counteract the above to make the water more acid are the oxidation of ammonia by chlorine (which returns HOCl to CL-, by the way) and the introduction of acids to the water from rain (remember "acid rain") or possibly refilling "tap" water (though usually such water is at least as alkaline as pool water) and of course other pool chemicals (I don't know what BioGuard Optimizer Plus is). By the way, your 1 gallon of muriatic acid every 3-4 days in 60,000 gallons of pool water decreases the pH by about 0.28 which still seems excessively high even accounting for the above. Perhaps your Total Alkalinity is too high since that would account for a faster pH increase (due to more carbonate in the water so faster out-gassing to CO2) and a greater resistance to changes in pH from adding acid (or base). Are you anywhere near the recommended 100 ppm Total Alkalinity? If you were at a Total Alkalinity of 100 ppm, then you would need to add about 5 cups of bicarbonate of soda after your gallon of acid, assuming you were going from a pH of 7.6 to 7.3. Does this sound like what you are doing? If so, then perhaps your chlorine demand is high (3 ppm per day). I'd like to add the following update: 1) The 1 ppm loss of chlorine to the air (HOCl + Cl- --> Cl2(g) + OH-) actually increases pH in a 16,000 gallon pool by 0.1, not 0.024 as I said earlier. So, if you are generating too much chlorine and have an uncovered pool, you might be losing lots of it to the air. 2) A friend of mine had a very high acid demand, just like your situation, but his ended up being a combination of excessive chlorine generation (see above) from running his pump 24 hours/day and from way too low alkalinity (65 ppm). The alkalinity will make the pH swing more quickly, but won't change overall acid demand (higher alkalinity slows pH swing, but you need to add more acid to lower pH the same amount). Once he increased total alkalinity (to around 140) and cut down his pump hours (to around 8), his pH stabilized. 3) If your water is out of balance with too low total alkalinity or calcium hardness, you could be corroding (etching) your pool plaster which will also tend to increase pH (and alkalinity) as Calcium Carbonate from your plaster dissolves into the pool water. My friend also had that situation as noted above. For a salt pool, you need to have more total alkalinity and/or calcium hardness to maintain water balance due to the higher Total Dissolved Solids (from the salt).
Increasing the pH of the water without affecting the alkalinity is very easy, but there is a trick. With the pump motor on and water circulating, add the sodium bicarb. in the deep end of the pool and work your way around the perimeter. This will raise the pH with minimal effect on the alkalinity. Keep your pH around 7.6-7.8, not 7.2-7.4. Most "pool experts" tell you 7.2-7.4 but they are using an index that your local water company uses which obviously is not and should not be used for pool. There's a big difference between a water treatment system and your pool. You can't treat them the same.
Yes, and China produces a very high volume of cue tips and pool cues for the rest of the world.
To ensure that your pool slides stay intact and safe, you have to bolt them to the pool and even with high winds, this could be easily done.
It is a McDermott cue, McDermott is the largest manufacturer of pool cues, makes medium to very high quaility cue sticks
Buffer and added hardness do the same thing in a salt water pool as in a fresh water pool. The buffer (sodium bicarbonate aka bicarbonate of soda) stabilizes the pH of your pool so that addition of acid or base doesn't change the pH very much. The hardness, mostly Calcium, helps achieve water balance to make the pool neither deposit (precipitate) excess Calcium Carbonate to your pool surfaces nor corrode (remove) Calcium from your plaster pool surface. The combination of pH, Total Alkalinity (adjusted for Cyanuric Acid), Calcium Hardness, temperature and Total Dissolved Solids determines whether your water is balanced. Just keep these values near their recommended amounts for your pool and you should be fine. If you're a techie and want the full formulas, do a Google search for "Langelier Saturation Index".
Sure, fireworks are dangerous. They burn at very high temperatures.
Yes, but, it may not be economical depending on how much is required. You are probably better off buying pH increaser from your local pool dealer. Pool & Spa Increasing the pH of the water without affecting the alkalinity is very easy, but there is a trick. With the pump motor on and water circulating, add the sodium bicarb. in the deep end of the pool and work your way around the perimeter. This will raise the pH with minimal effect on the alkalinity. Keep your pH around 7.6-7.8, not 7.2-7.4. Most "pool experts" tell you 7.2-7.4 but they are using an index that your local water company uses which obviously should not be used for pool. There's a big difference between a water treatment system and your pool. You can't treat them the same.
The "ugly white substance" is salt and other minerals that are just part of the natural process of evaporation. Every time a drop of salt water splashes onto an otherwise dry surface, the water evaporates leaving salt and minerals.AnswerRemember (Alkalinity first)salt or any other sanitizer used for any type of water potentially could have this problem, The white stuff or Alkalinity salts around the water line is a tell,tell sign that you have an Alkalinity problem which means you have a PH problem which means the chlorine that your generator makes is not doing as good as job as it could.Thus (Alkalinity first)check and correct your alkalinity to be between 80-120 ppm 100 being ideal then correct your PH like a couple of days later never at the same time. to be around 7.4-7.5 is best by the time you do this your chlorine level will be so high you may not be able to swim a couple of days because the chlorine is now active and needs much less to sanitize.Be very careful with your salt system even though everyone says you need no more chemicals,Well they are wrong or just don't know. Ph and Alkalinity are very important to keep your system carefree and properly sanitized, By the way your alkalinity is most likely so high you can get Pool acid from Brody chemical dilute with water to clean off alkalinity salts and also lower your alkalinity and PH at the same time from then on maintain your alkalinity and PH and you will not get that white build up Brody has two kinds of acid for this Regular pool acid and odorless acid a little more expensive but well worth it.www.brodychemical.com