I'm going to tell you only one way, since the typical front-end shop will use the "other way" in the interest of time. The "other way" (using a pickle fork) will trash the boots and usually bugger the tapered shaft. They're going to throw them away anyway.
First, a warning: Back off the torsion bar adjusters before going any further! There's one on each side under the lower control arm. Make sure they're loose in their mounting slots so that no tension remains on the front end components. The car-friendly way:
# Remove brake drum, caliper, and/or rotor. On a drum brake car, you don't need to worry about removing the brake line from the cylinder, or the cylinder from the backing plate. They will all come off as an assembly in the next step.
# Remove the two large bolts from the lower ball joint. Note how these bolts sandwich brake components together so you can reassemble them in the correct order later. # Remove the lower ball joint's cotter pin from the tapered shaft, and back the nut off 2-3 turns. Do not fully remove the nut at this point. Place the proper puller over the spindle and press the tapered shaft out. Make sure to get one of the small, thick-armed puller designed especially for this. Using the typical hinged "gear puller" will cause you a lot of grief. Believe me; it's worth it to get the correct puller! Obviously, you'll need to remove the nut before you can go any further. I leave the nut on during this operation to avoid damaging the threads while using the puller. This will completely separate the lower ball joint from the car. # Pull the upper tapered shaft the same as you did with the lower ball joint.
# Next is the special socket that fits over the upper ball joint. The ball joints have very shallow threads formed into their sides that pull them into the control arms, so they're unscrewed just like a huge, short bolt. Don't try it with slip-joint pliers; you'll need at least a 1/2" breaker bar on the correct socket. They're tight! There's two different sized sockets to cover all manner of Mopar. I believe it's the smaller for earlier "A" bodies (through '72?), then the larger fits everything else. I found both of mine in a used tool shop for cheap, because nobody knew what they were! It's a Chevy world around my place...
Your shoulder and hip are both ball and socket joints.
the different groups of joints in the body are saddle joints gliding joints hinge joints and ball and socket joints .
4: the shoulder joints and the hip joints.
A ball and socket joint is a type of synovial joint. Synovial joints are the most common in the human body.
The joints in our body is Pivot joint,Hinge joint,Gliding joints and Ball-and-Socket joint.
ball & socket
Ball and socket joint,hinged joint,immovable joints,cartilagenous joints,semi mobile joints.
The largest joints in the body are the ball-and-socket joints of the shoulder (humerus and clavicle) and the hip (pelvis and femur).
Ball an socket, pivot, hinge, and gliding joints.
Ball and SocketHingePivotGlidingThere are more than three if I remember right. The joints are: ball and socket, hinge, saddle, and gliding joints.There are actually 6 types of joints in the body Hinge joints-your elbows Saddle joints-your thumb Ball and socket-your hips Pivot joints-your neck Gliding joints-your ankles Immovable joints- your skull
At the shoulder and hip joints.
in the hip and shoulder.