There are a few screws that hold the door panel as well as plastic push-in type fasteners.
Screws: There is one under the arm rest on the door, one in the top of the arm rest, one in the cover of the door handle (you have to pop out a plastic plug using a pocket knife) and one in the air vent near the front of the door. All will work with a #2 Phillips head screwdriver with about a 4" long shank. Make sure you remove the black plastic bezel around the door handle by pulling the door handle out and gently working the bezel over it.
Plastic push-in fasteners: There are about 4 across the bottom, two up the back side and 2 or three up the front side. One on the front is up high, a bit above the midline of the panel. These push-ins are re-usable and don't need replaced unless they are broken.
Using a wide flat tool like a 2" wide putty knife, slide it between the plastic door panel and the door. (There is a door panel removal tool that can be purchased from any auto parts store for about $12) There are 6 to 8 plastic "plugs" that need to pop out of the door body and are clipped into the plastic door panel. Once you get the bottom of the panel pulled out enough to slide your fingers behind it, slide your hand along and pop each clip out from the door. Make sure you pull on the panel only when you are close to each clip or you will end up breaking all the little push-in clips.
Once you have all the screws out and all the clips popped out, the door panel should lift up easily (straight up - not away from the door). If it does not lift easily, there was a screw or plug that was missed. The panel fits into the bottom edge of the window sill to hold the top of the door panel tight to the glass.
As soon as the panel is loose and lifted from the door, there are wires that go to the power windows and door lock switches. Be careful that you don't yank too hard on these and break your wires. I have used a bungee cord looped over the top of the door frame (through the open window) and hang the door panel from there. Otherwise you need to use a narrow blade flat screwdriver to slip under the retaining clips to unplug the electrical connector. It is a bit difficult, so that's why I hang the panel from the window frame.
The speakers should be very visible and accessible now. You will need a Phillips screwdriver to remove them. If your speakers are blown, you will see the paper around the perimeter is torn (you can see this from the back side). I found a decent pair of replacement Infinity speakers from Best Buy for about $100. They are a direct bolt-in replacement. I still had to drill four holes per speaker to mount them.
Good Luck! Wally
Rear speakers: simply unscrew the 4 screws that hold on the cover then you have access to the speakers. Front speakers: you will have to take the interior door panel off this should give you access to the front doors.
You are going to need 5 1/4 (5.25") for the front doors and the tailgate. These jeeps only have the 4 speakers.
5 1/4's but you can fit 6.5's with some modding.
In the 1997 - 2001 Cherokee the front door speakers are 6.5 inch. However they do not match 6.5 inch aftermarket speakers.
16.5cm in the front doors
The covers on the side doors should pop off. i believe underneath on the speakers themselves its a 3-screw pattern.
The front speakers are 5 1/4"
In the doors front and rear.
You pulled something loose somewhere when you where working on the vehicle or ran the battery down with the doors open and dome lights on all day.
According to the detail spec sheets from Crutchfield.com, the 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee contains four (4) to six (6) speakers. Both front doors and both back doors are said to contain 6-3/4" speakers. The two additional speakers if you have the six (6) speaker setup would be located in the dash near the windshield. These will be 2-1/2" tweeters.
2 front door speakers 2 tweeters in front doors 2 rear door speakers
Front & Rear Doors take only 6x8 speakers