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How do you access the expansion valve on a 1987 Toyota pickup?

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2011-09-12 23:00:25

"Replacing_expansion_valve_on_Toyota_p.u." id=

"Replacing_expansion_valve_on_Toyota_p.u.">Replacing expansion

valve on Toyota p.u.

The expansion valve is located in and with the evaporator, inside

the evaporator case. This case is a somewhat square, plastic

enclosure located directly behind the glove box on this vehicle.

Replacing the expansion valve requires removing the glovebox and

the brace in front of it, disconnecting all wiring attached to the

blower housing (located next to the evaporator case, disconnecting

the hoses attached on the engine side of the firewall, removing

several (10mm) bolts/screws that hold the evaporator case to the

firewall and ultimately, removing the evaporator case from the

vehicle. Once this is done, the case is held together by several

Philips screws and one or two clips. Always 'backup' wrenches when

removing a valve so as not to rip the liquid line or suction line

off and always clean the mating area of the capillary tube and wrap

it with new tacky tape. Don't foget to use new o-rings lubed

lightly with refrigeration oil. It is important to remember to

discharge the system BEFORE this procedure using approved

recovery/recycling equipment or have this done by a qualified

technician. It is also important to note that if you are replacing

the valve because it is restricted or exhibiting intermittent

closure (which are the only logical reasons to do so, [unless you

have somehow determined that the valve itself is leaking {very rare

for the actual valve of this type, likely the o-rings have

corrosive build-up}]) that you will definitely want to remove the

receiver drier (the system filter), flush the system using approved

flush method(s) and chemicals and replace the drier with a new one.

After all, if the valve stopped up or acting up, there must be

trash in the system, and if you do not flush and replace the drier,

you will be doing this again in the very near future! Remember not

to open the drier or install it until you are ready to close the

system as the drier contains dessicant material which will absorb

moisture from the atmosphere and be ruined. Also, be sure to

replace any (refrigeration) oil lost during this procedure, plus

about 1.5 additional ounces. You must also be informed that, as a

possible consequence of a restricted expansion valve where a system

has been run for ANY length of time, there is always the

possibility of a compressor problem (locking up) at some point in

the future (from oil starvation). Before introducing refrigerant to

the system, the system must be 'evacuated' (vacuumed to have air

removed). Air in the system causes corrosive build-up and acids

which lead to evaporator core and other aluminum part leaks. Check

the label on the vehicle for the proper refrigerant charge. It is

likely somewhere around 32 ounces (R12 type refrigerant. And the

proper oil is 525 viscosity mineral). If the system has been

(properly) converted to R134a, use Pag I, or low viscsity (46

weight) oil and about 10 ounces less than the R12 charge (IF it has

been PROPERLY converted. It is illegal to mix refrigerants and ALL

other refrigerants other than R12 and R134a are NOT approved by

BOTH the EPA AND care manufacturers and some may containg flammable

substance [illegal in all states]). Good luck and let us know how

you make out.

SDI


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