The conventional way is to fill the reservoir and have one person pump the brake pedal once and hold it down. Then the other person will loosen the bleeder valve on the caliper or cylinder for 2 seconds then close it. The pedal operator can then lift his or her foot, and pump once again. Repeat this process on all the calipers until all the air is gone and the pedal is firm. Start at the caliper with the longest brake line, and work your way up.
Yes, you can bleed any or all.
stab it i assume?
The same way you bleed brakes on a newer car, bleeder valves are in back of the wheel cylinders on the backing plate.
No you dont need to bleed the brakes if you are just changing the pads, there are more ansers to car maintenance questions at ; www.carbasics.co.uk
Yes, as long as you can access the bleeder screw.
no air bleed valve. all you need to do is to remove the radiator cap and let the car idle for a few minutes.
Same as you do on every other car, bleed the brakes fully and replenish
you need to bench bleed first then put in car for rest of bleeding process, just like all bleeding jobs No Air !.
Yes, you bleed all 4 calipers. Start at the RR wheel then move to the LR, then RF, and end at the LF wheel.
Same as you do on every other car, bleed the brakes fully and replenish
The mechanic at the shop indicated that there was no bleed screw on the 200 Ford Explorer. This problem was resolved by starting the car (not driving it) and allowing it to run a little. The machanic did advise us to not allow the car to overheat.
look for bleed plug on thermostat housing or run car with radiator cap off in park with hosepipe in radiator till bubbles are gone.