I hope you enjoy disassembling the entire dash of your vehicle. First, make sure this is your problem. Troubleshoot all other avenues, especially if it is a power related problem. Also check the cable that runs from your ignition switch to the shifter to be sure it is in tact and operating properly. This cable will come into play later in this description. Now that you have lifted the cover over your shifter to check the cable, go ahead and unplug the wiring attached (should be a light and traction control) and sit this out of your way. You will need the room. Next remove thefascia that holds your climate control functions and surrounds your stereo/CD player. There are several things plugged into the back here, so take care not to damage anything as you unplug this for removal. I would recommend a small flat blade screwdriver and a pile of patience at this point. After you have removed this rather large piece of the dash, you have access to the bolts holding the stereo head unit in place. Two on the left and one on the right. Pull it out and unplug the harness and the antenna male plug from the back of the unit. You should be able to see the right side of your ignition switch at this point, but don't get your hopes up just yet. One of the bolts holding that beauty in is just under the gauge cluster so that is your next step. Remove the two small bolts under the hood of the gauge cluster. They are around the ten and two positions of the steering wheel. After these are out, take the small screwdriver and gently pop the lower corners of the surrounding fascia out for removal. If you haven't already, now is the time to bring the steering wheel into the lowest tilt position. There is one wire connection on the left side of the ring that has to be disconnected. This is for your trip button. Now you should have access to the four bolts that hold your gauge cluster in place. Remove these and roll the gauge cluster face down. Unplug the connection on the back. Don't worry, all of the information you see on the dash comes from the PCM so this is simply a display. Like a monitor of sorts. Slide the cluster out and put it in a safe place. Now you can finally get to the three small bolts that hold your starter ignition switch in its perch. Two on the left, one on the right. Pull the switch up and through the opening left by the removal of the gauges and disconnect the two wiring harnesses from the rear. Again, take care not to damage these connections as they are reused. The small three wire plug that connects to the side of the switch is an "L" shaped plug and the wires go in at the base of the "L". This plug should be removed in a rocking type of motion. Take your time not to destroy this little feller. Now then, all that is left is the cable that runs to the shifting linkage. If your ignition is locked in the off position, you have to separate the top and bottom halves of the ignition to free the cable. If the key will turn, just turn it over a bit and it will free it up. This is just a safety bar that slides up to keep you from starting your car in gear. Push in the tab on the side of the cable and slide it out of the ignition housing and it should be free. Replacement is simply this tedious process reversed. Good luck!
how do you fix security switch on a 2002 oldsmobile alero
Under coils
How do you replace the hazard switch
top right rear of engine.
The manual says to turn on the ignition.
your alero does not have a fuel shut off these switches are used mainly in ford vehicles.
you need to re-do the timing of the ignition system. the other possibility is the ignition is worn out and needs to be replaced.
Turn the ignition key on for 10 minutes and it will reset.
There isn't one. Ford is mainly the only ones who have a reset switch.
Usually part of the switch (module)
Your Alero does not have one: they are usually found only on Ford cars.
Where is the charging port for the a/c in a Oldsmobile alero