How do you change rotors on s-10?

Answer 1

This answer is based off a 1997 s-10 2wd 2.2 liter 4 cyl:

First you must remove the wheel using 3/4in. socket on air gun, Rachet, breaker bar, or by using a "4-way."

Next, remove the caliper. For this you will need a rachet assembly with a 3/8in Allen head to remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the mount. After removing the bolts, pull the caliper off of the rotor.

You will then remove the dust cap using either a chisel or small flat head screw driver and a hammer gently tapping the chisel between the dust cap and te end of the rotor. Once removed you will have access to the cottor pin and nut. Remove the cottor pin with pliers then use the pliers to loosen the nut(which should not be too tight). Place the nut it the dust cap and prevent rust/dust from getting on it. Next hold your hand under the end of the rotor and with your free hand tap against te outside face of the rotor, this should release the washer and outside bearing front the shaft(if not carefully use two flat head screw drivers to work them out(again prevent rust/dust etc from getting on these parts and set them in the dust cap, seeing that you will more than likely reuse them) Now, it is easiest to replace the nut back onto the shaft by a few threads. Gently pull the rotor off while turning it down slightly so that the back bearing catches on the nut and stays on the shaft. Set rotor on a piece of paper towel for now and remove the back bearing. While the rotor is off you might as well clean the wheel sensor, this can be done by covering up the shaft with a CLEAN rag or CLEAN paper towel, and using a magnet and paper towel to remove metal particles/rust/dust from the surface and around the sensor.

Getting the new rotor ready: New rotors come from the factory with a protective film on them, grab a couple paper towels and a can of carbuerator cleaner, with out spraying into the center of the rotor which will house the bearings and come in contact with the shaft, spray both front and back surfaces and wipe the film off. Now, you can either reuse the factory grease or purchase new grease, this depends on the quality of the grease within the old rotor, If reusing grease, use a finger(gloved or no glove again choice is yours), to pack the grease around on the inside cylindrical surface of the rotor which again will house the bearings and come in contact with the shaft. You can now replace the inside bearing which will have a tapered fit into the new rotor, you will need to install a "wheel seal" after installing the bearing(your part supplier will know the part you need, the wheel seal has two different sides one which is "open" and one side which is not), place the open side into the rotor and gently tap the seal into place, make sure it is seated all the way in and try not to hit the rotor while doing so. you can now slide the rotor onto the shaft and put the outside bearing and washer back on (the washer should fit into a key slot), thread the nut on finger tight until you can just fit the cottor pin back into its hole on the shaft through the nut (pliers can be used due to the fact that the grease on the nut can make this difficult). You can just simply pound the dust cap on with a hammer, but personally I would rather not damage the cap, so for this you will need a larger size flat head screw driver and a hammer. Fit the cap into place and altough this can be tricky, place the screw driver around the outside edge and tap on the screw driver with the hammer all the way around until it is fully seated. I would recommend new pads whenever changing rotors but again that is your choice. If replacing pads simply pull off the old ones and replace with new ones, If reusing old pads lightly sand down the surface to remove any rust/dust. Now just slide the caliper back onto your newly installed rotor. Line up the holes and replace the bolts. once tightened down, I would recommend "seating" the new/old pads to the rotor. Find a road that or parking lot on which you can accellerate up to 30mph and half room to firmly and steadily apply the brakes (This is not to check how fast you can stop, You SHOULD NOT slam on the brakes while doing this process) Repeat the acceleration to 30mph and firmly applying the brakes for a totaly of 4-6 times, again this allows for the new rotors/pads to seat properly against each other. I hope this helps you out and allows you to keep from wasting money at a dealership or shop. W.F.