probably best to get a manual .I didnt have one and spent a long time.(I do most of my own car mechanics and found it a sod.)The problem,as typically on my car is very tight access and corroded fixings. First get a new cable and study it and look under the car to follow the course of the cable as it isn't obvious from the top where it enters the engine compartment .(You will need to jack up the car a little and secure safely with axle stands to get to the clutch end. )The stirrup end attaches to a notch in the clutch pedal arm and this is kept in place by the end of the spring that tensions the clutch pedal. I found it necessary to take the whole clutch lever off its bush(14 mm socket)but note carefully which way the spring goes on the shaft and where the 2 free ends locate.If you don't it might take you along time to work it out. The outer cable is attached by a bracket with 2x 10 mm headed shouldered nuts and is very difficult to access with spanners as very little room. I used ratchet spanners and it was very awkward ;perhaps an1/4th drive socket might have worked better. Dont lose the nuts. Pull the cable off and you will note there are 2 little spacer bushes that go over the studs on the bulkhead .Dont lose these either as the new cable wont come with them and you need them to reattach the nuts properly, which will dig in otherwise. At the other end the cable passes through a holder and rigid bracket to the left front side of engine .You will find a threaded rod that goes through a pivot pin in the clutch actuater arm and is fixed by a special adjuster nut This might be corroded on and if so you will need to saw through the threaded rod.If you are lucky you may be able to get the nut off the remnant with heat and a vice.I couldn't but 2x10 mm bolts will do (one will act as a spacer in the arm) leave the old cable roughly in place for now.
Guide the new cable behind the engine by the old one. Use a piece of bent wire from the cabin side to draw in the stirrup of the cable and make sure the cable is the right way up. Connect the stirrup into the notch and grease and reassemble the clutch pedal pivot and spring the correct way !!.Then reattach the outer cable bracket with the 2 stud spacers and shouldered bolts. I found it difficult to get the nuts to the studs due to the space constraints and dropped them several times.Whenyou achieve this go to the other end and insert the cable end though the brackets and into the pivot pin .Then force the rubber cone into its bracket and do up the adjuster nut on the clutch arm until there is only a little free play in the arm . I found that the clutch pedal was high initially then the cable slacked off considerably after a few miles and had to readjust hugely (my daughter was 10 miles away by then )This is easy however
Possibly i was having a bad day. Should be 15 mins ,took me 2 hours!!
Daewoo Matiz was created in 1998.
where is the ECU on Daewoo Matiz 1999
Try adjusting clutch cable. 5 minute job. Worked for me after weeks of suffering with the gear change from Hell on a used Matiz.
What is the journal size on the crankshaft of the daewoo matiz
You don't need to it bleads itself
wher can i get to download for free a manual for a daewoo matiz 2002
under dash driver's side next to clutch pedal and upwards
pull them off. there not put on properly, dont worry its only a Daewoo Matiz.
I have removed my drake drum today and wondered how to adjust the hand brake as it seams not to work as good as before .i removed drum to change wheel bearing