How do you change the spark plug wires on a Ford Windstar?

Answer 1

Sparkplug wires only eh...

Couple of things you'll need:

• Small screwdriver
• Di-electric grease
• 8mm & 10mm sockets
  
• 5/16ths nut-driver
• Spray Throttle Body cleaner & old toothbrush - optional
  

The number 1 thing to know about changing plug wires:

Do them one at a time!

Fight back the impulse to just yank them all off at once... Virtually guarantee the next question then is "What is the firing order of plug wires from coilpack to plugs??"

Getting at the back plugs

• See the "Related Question" below for specific instructions on getting at the 3 rear plugs
• Take the cowl panels off - See "Related Questions" below for more
  

Open up the wire 'looms' - the plastic guides that routes the wires from the plug to the coilpack. This is where the small screwdriver comes in handy - look closely for where the pieces come together to identify where to pry against the top/bottom to open.

Pull the wire off the plug - this is where you could run into some frustrations. Not quite so bad since you don't care about re-using the wires, so you can just pull and yank to your heart's content. The 'boot' - heavy rubber end - tend to stick, and sometimes stick hard.
For those times you are not replacing the wires, there are plastic plier-type tools for helping deal with the stuck wire boots.

Do NOT pull on the wire - pull and TWIST on the boot to break them loose.

With the wire loose from the plug, trace its route back towards the coilpack - I like to start inserting the new wire along the way. There's usually enough grip to hold the wire, even without the top on.

Back at the coilpack, you'll likely find a pair of arms sticking up that clip the end onto the coilpack terminal the wire goes to. A bit of squeeze & twisting motion helps break things loose.

The wireset I put on my Contour the other day already had di-electric grease on the coilpack end - I added some to the plug end. Guarantees no stuck wires the next time, plus provides a degree of protection to the electrical connection from the elements / engine cleanings.

NOTE: when putting the boot onto the plug, you'll feel a perceptible clicking action when the metal connector seats onto the top of the plug / plug terminal. If this is your first time, practice on a couple easy-to-reach ones to get familiar with what to expect.

DOUBLE CHECK each plug/ wire connection - heck, even triple check just for good measure.

Bonus Material: Replacing the spark plugs

For this, gather your collection of socket extensions and universal joints...

• 3/4" plug socket on a 6" extension
  TIP: wrap a piece of duct tape on this joint! It prevents the plug socket from coming loose while pulling it out, and the PITA of long nose pliers to retrieve it from the deep well the plug sits in.
  
• Anti-seize compound on the threads & a bit of grease on the plug body - optional, but recommended to avoid future problems with seized plugs and stuck wire boots. Some day you'll thank yourself!
• GAP - hopefully the auto parts store wrote it down for you - otherwise call them back & ask, or check the Owners Manual or on a label somewhere in the engine compartment
  
• I don't know the torque specification, but don't get carried away when tightening the plug - snug 'em in nice
  

This is a good opportunity to give the throttle body a good cleaning - easy enough while you have all this stuff disconnected and open.

Put everything back together...

Make the entries in your Maintenance Log, clean up & thank your tools for a job-well-done and pour yourself a frothy adult-beverage.