How do you change transmission fluid for a 1993 Nissan Micra?

Answer 1

Hey, this is what i found on line. right now I'm having trouble with a 95 Civic fiero, so i still had the doc saved on my desktop. i hope it helps.

Take A Look-See

An overall inspection is the logical first step. A low fluid level may indicate a leak somewhere in the system, possibly at a cooler line that runs to the bottom of the radiator. Find it and fix it, then top up the level. Remember that, unlike the engine crankcase, it only takes about a pint to make the difference between the "Add" and "Full" marks. Also, make sure you use the correct ATF, which we'll discuss later. If you're lucky, the lag or shifting problem may just disappear after you add ATF.

The fluid should be bright red, clear and "sweet" smelling. If it's a smoky dark color, or has a burned odor, a complete change is needed, but the damage may already have been done.

Lockup?

All modern automatics (except for the continuously variable transmissions--CVTs--found on a few late-model cars) have locking torque converters to eliminate slip at cruising speeds, thus saving fuel. These are controlled by the powertrain control module (the engine and transmission management computer) on the basis of speed, temperature, throttle position, etc. If the engine is running at a higher rpm on the highway than usual--300 to 500 more--to maintain the same speed, it's possible that lockup isn't occurring. Besides reducing fuel economy, this can have the much more disastrous effect of causing the transmission to overheat.

Check that the transmission converter clutch wire that runs from the harness to the transmission is connected and intact.

Fresh Fluid

The single most important thing you can do to head off big-bucks transmission repairs is to change the ATF on a regular basis.

Some carmakers have backed down from the unrealistic 100,000-mile trans fluid change interval recommended in the past. Every 30,000 miles is much more reasonable. If you tow heavy loads in hot weather, you might even think about annual changes.

Going through the messy operation of dropping the transmission pan and replacing the filter is fine as far as it goes. The trouble is, it doesn't go far enough. At least half of the old, burned-up ATF and its contaminants remain in the torque converter (the days of those convenient converter drain plugs are long gone), clutch drums, valve body and elsewhere. If you want to get the full benefit from this maintenance service, you've got to work a little harder.

Regardless of how far you're willing to go here, you still must take the transmission pan off, and there are a couple of ways of making this job a little neater. Start by putting the car on sturdy jackstands or, better yet, ramps. Block the rear wheels. If you have a gravel driveway, toss a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood down first to prevent the stands from tunneling into the ground while you're under the vehicle.

If you just remove the pan (leave a few bolts along one side partway in), ATF will flow out in a wave all around the seam, probably splashing outside the radius of your catch pan. If you've got a suitable pump, you can run the pickup hose down into the dipstick tube until it bottoms out, then pump until you stop getting fluid. This will vastly reduce spillage.

To extract as much of the old ATF as possible, leave the pan on, remove a trans cooler line at the radiator, put a drain pan under it, then start the engine for a few seconds to find out which way the fluid is flowing. It doesn't matter whether you use the inlet or outlet line except that you have to attach a small hose either to the line connector or the radiator outlet in order to collect the ATF. Put the hose into the largest jug you can find, and let the engine idle until air starts spurting. Many professionals enhance this procedure by pouring a few quarts of fresh fluid into the dipstick tube at roughly the same rate that the old fluid is coming out, thus adding flushing action.

Now you can remove the pan. This is not only necessary for changing the filter, but also allows deposits and sediment to be washed out of the pan. There's another important consideration: This operation provides the opportunity to find out if failure is impending. Judging this is somewhat subjective, so we asked an ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician (CMAT) his opinion.

"You should see next to no swarf or debris, and then only on the first change," he says. "Subsequent changes should be nearly dead clean. If a newer gearbox is making junk, it's in trouble. You might find just a trace of aluminum shavings, or other very minor debris, but the assembly process is so clean, and the newer gearboxes so unforgiving of dirt, that any real accumulation generally means a problem is in development."

Now's the time to replace the filter and its seal, which probably can be purchased in the same kit as the transmission pan gasket. When reinstalling the pan, start every pan bolt by hand for at least two threads before tightening any of them.

If the last person to install your pan got overly enthusiastic with the wrench, you may find the pan rail has dimples around the bolts. Use a hammer and dolly to flatten them out. Otherwise, the pan gasket will leak. A cork gasket often can benefit from a thin layer of gasket sealer or adhesive, especially to keep it in place while you're trying to start those first few bolts. Don't use a thick bead of silicone sealant, as it will squish out between the mating surfaces into little silicone worms, which will eventually break off and clog the pump intake.

Delegate

Of course, you can go to your favorite auto service facility and have a trans flush and refill done. Many shops today have a machine for this purpose, but you've got to be sure of what you're getting. Some quick-lube places will just attach the machine to a cooler line, exchange the fluid, and call it done. We beg to differ. The pan should be removed for cleaning.

The Right Stuff

Most of the automatic transmissions on the road will work just fine on Dexron III/Mercon ATF, except for '92 and earlier domestic Fords, which need Type F. But the Dexron is essentially a generic fluid, and some experts say they've cured shifting problems simply by replacing it with the exact O.E.-specified stuff. They have also confided in us that they've inadvertently caused trouble by using bulk ATF that was labeled, "Will also work in ..." So, especially with imports, you might want to read your owner's manual carefully where fluid specifications are listed.

You want real peace of mind? Then think about spending the extra money for synthetic ATF. The master technician mentioned earlier always uses straight $5-per-quart synthetic for his own vehicles